L8RGYZ

Ok, brothers, I need some help.

I've gone all paranoid & ordered some OEM Cam Chain Tensioners for my VTR! I swear there's more noise in the valve train.

Problem is I'm not much of a mechanic. Seems more than a few of you have had to muck aroung w/ this stuff.

Can I just take the old one's off & bolt on the new one's?

mikstr

I beleive you have to find TDC in each respective cylinder before removing the old ones. Perhaps go download the electronic shop manual that I believe is in the KB section.

MIkstr

jschmidt

You need to follow the manual instructions. You'll also have to make a retraction key. Directions are in the manual.

Don't shortcut it. But perhaps you should get someone who knows the CCT sound to listen to your bike first.

miken996

If you orderd the tentioners already than put them in my rear went out and bent my exhaust valves Yes you have to set the motor to TDC. the new tentioners come with a retractor key but its a little tricky to use. I started with the rear cylinder set it to tdc to unload the valves take the retractor key out of one of the new tentioners and retract the old tentioner then loosen both bolts make sure you turn the retractor key enough to totally unload the chain and remove the tentioner remove the retractor key and install back into new tentioner install then tighten the bolts and remove key your done with the rear know rotate the crank 270 degrees counter clock wise know your TDC on the front cylinder refrence with timing marks repeat like the rear. now you can sleep at night If you understand how to set one of the cyclinders to TDC then the rest of the job is not that bad

miken996

I forgot to tell you when you get your new OEM tentioners they do not come with the steel end cap at the end of the plunger you have to remove the old ones they just pull off and transfer to new ones.

dustinwild

Yes!! Definately set to TDC!!! HAha.. I didn't and am paying for my new valves! Mike, why do we have to change the rubber end caps, why is honda sending these replacement CCTs, with rubber ends if they shouldn't have them??

Pdaddy

With all the paranoia and distrust of the stocke tensioners, why arent guys upgrading or running aftermarket mechanical tensioners ? Whats the replacement cost on OEM's ? Ive seen A.P.E. mechanicals on the interweb somewere around 60 bucks...

jschmidt

Why? The internet. Same reason people pull out perfectly good tensioners and put in manual ones.

Pdaddy

Thats what Im getting at, everyone is rushed to replace them it seems alot of that maintenance is somewhat frivilous. (May not be I dont know...)

What Im getting at though, if your concerned and you want the problem corrected (ie.. the fact that its hydraulic and can slack up as oil pressure rise's and falls ) why not go ahead with a mechanical setup and have no worries ??

Again to justify this in my own mind, Im curious as to what the cost of oem tensioners are to what an aftermarket mechanical tensioner would be. Personally if I feel mine is getting sloppy Im going to look for a better solution... Im just lookin at options .

bkelsey

OEM Tensioner 14520-MBB-003
Service Honda
$48.55

99Hawk

I don't understand why anyone wanting to replace their stock CCT would replace it with another Honda CCT. Using an APE manual unit there are no parts to fail. Adjustment couldn't be easier and when it's set you really don't need to be concerned with it. I know of one owner (forum member here) who replaced his with APE units and never needed adjustment even after 50,000 miles.

Adjusting it manually (by sound with a running engine) will allow you to set the absolute minimum shaft pressure to quiet the chain slack. If you use the Honda CCT it has a fixed shaft pressure (about 5 LB shaft force when I measured it) which is likely more pressure on the chain than the minimum needed to take out the excess chain slack.

Pdaddy

Thats what my mindset is... mechanical = mo betta, problem solved.

Also a mech CCT will allow the chain tension to remain the same through out any engine running condition... Unlike a hydraulic (oil) actuated stocker that will tighten a touch and let off a touch as oil pressure rises and falls. Seems to make sense in my mind. Set the mech unit were you feel safe and rock out.

That was one of the first preventive maintenace items I looked at when buying this bike. If its a concern just fix it.

L8RGYZ

Thanks for the input, esp. regarding the steel End Caps.

OK, so do I need to pull a Valve Cover to find TDC? Or is there a shortcut?

Detail please...

99Hawk

The plunger tension on the stocker is from an internal spring, not oil pressure. Even so, it has parts that may give way and cause $$$ problems down the road so why not replace it with a much simpler unit that has no tendency to fail....

Pdaddy

I havent gotten into one so its soley relying on spring tension ? There is no oil port on them anywere for high tension at higher RPM ? I assumed that it had some oil assitance somewere incorporated. As mentioned I havent even seen one, but most engines with these type of tensioners use oil pressure to assist in chain tension.

If not than that does suck... LOL

99Hawk

Just spring tension.

A matter of fact I've often thought that the reason the front CCT fails first in most cases is simply because it sits on top of the cyl and is essentially dry (and probably hotter). The rear CCT sits low and the thing actually captures oil and its spring is sitting in a bath of oil so it's probably a bit cooler with less temperature change during oepration. The rotory spring tension is what forces the plunger forward so when the end of the spring snaps in a failed CCT it will release its hold on the plunger .... not a good thing...

99Hawk

L8RGYZ
You can read some info I left in an earlier post here:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...p?t=541&page=3

You might just as well pull the rear cover and look at the cam lobes though. It's a bit easier to confirm TDC by seeing the cams pointing "up and out" with the RT mark aligned on the crank for the rear cyl first.
.... then turn the crank 1.25 turns CCW until the FT mark aligns to get TDC for the front and you don't need to remove the front valve cover.

Don't even think about pulling the CCTs unless you can confirm TDC one way or another .... Murphy will strike...

dustinwild

Murphy struck me!! I didn't even think about TDC, and the manual doesn't say anything about just changing the CCTs, so I of course just thought it would be a quick little change out. Silly me!! Ah well, what's a couple of weeks off the bike. a head torn off, and a whole bunch of valve work... I enjoy a challenge!!! Hahaha... Umm, yeah, and this picture is of my head... With no cams in it by the way...

L8RGYZ

99Hawk,
Best explanation of how to do your CCTs so far. I'm getting ready to do mine & it finally makes sense now. Thanks John.