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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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Carb part question

Is part 26 and 25 removable?

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...k-2000/o/m2914

also is it possible for this part wear out from the needle bouncing around. I thought I remembered a post taking about this but when I searched I couldn't find it. I have about 48k miles and I have been trying to dial it in and so far I have tried every needle setting, but it doesn't fix my stumble and slight miss at 3 to 4 k rpm just mildly changes the severity, so I am beginning to think its something worn out hence the question. Thanks everyone.
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 07:51 AM
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Yes they are removeable..but virtually impossible to wear out, all it priciply does is hold the main jet, however front and rear are different and they may have been inadvertantly been swithched. One has the metering holes toward the base the other toward the top. I don't remember which is which but I know there is a thread around here talking about it at Dyno Jet or Factory pro...In fact now that I think about it I believe it was factory pro's site.

Last edited by HRCA#1; Jul 2, 2009 at 07:57 AM. Reason: Corrected my response to conform to the question!
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by cornandp
Is part 26 and 25 removable?

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...k-2000/o/m2914

also is it possible for this part wear out from the needle bouncing around. I thought I remembered a post taking about this but when I searched I couldn't find it. I have about 48k miles and I have been trying to dial it in and so far I have tried every needle setting, but it doesn't fix my stumble and slight miss at 3 to 4 k rpm just mildly changes the severity, so I am beginning to think its something worn out hence the question. Thanks everyone.
Those are the emulsion tubes (holder, needle jet) and should not wear our unless the jet needle is loose and banging around. They can become clogged,as there are very small holes in the emulsion tubes; but can be very carefully cleaned with solvent and a very small brass wire. The needles themselves do wear and at 48k miles such wear could effect running. Given everything is OE (including the air filter , except for PAIR component removal & plugging, and maybe a AM set of cans), my suggestion is to clean your carbs thoroughly, inspect the needles for significant wear (and replace if necessary), shim the needles .040" with small brass washers available almost anywhere (you may need to trim a bit off the plastic keeper above that holds the needles to make headroom for the raised needles), set your fuel screws at 2.25 turns out, warm it up and sync (balance) the carbs, and run fresh gas. Should run well and fast.
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:07 AM
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It has a dynojet installed about a yr ago, so new needles. I may try a deep clean, will seafoam take care of this or should I clean it by hand? I doubt the emulsion tubes have ever been accidentally switched. I am running aftermarket pipes and a bmc air filter. Before I switched to better flowing pipes and was running debaffled stockers I had the same exact issue. It just seems as though something other than jetting settings is causing my issue is all. Maybe something clogged, but the bike never has sat for more than 2 months. Runs like crazy up top and under accel, but at steady 3 to 4 k stumble city.

Seafoam?

(settings dynojet 180/185 needles 4th notch+washers pilot #48 screws 2 turns, but idle still too rich)
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:14 AM
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Hand clean the tubes.
and if needles wear out, and it takes very little wear to make them bad, the electro-plating on the aluminum surface will wear thru. Should be quite visible when this outer layer is penetrated at all.
All it takes is a ****-hair of physical wear to make them go out of range.
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by cornandp
It has a dynojet installed about a yr ago, so new needles. I may try a deep clean, will seafoam take care of this or should I clean it by hand? I doubt the emulsion tubes have ever been accidentally switched. I am running aftermarket pipes and a bmc air filter. Before I switched to better flowing pipes and was running debaffled stockers I had the same exact issue. It just seems as though something other than jetting settings is causing my issue is all. Maybe something clogged, but the bike never has sat for more than 2 months. Runs like crazy up top and under accel, but at steady 3 to 4 k stumble city.

Seafoam?

(settings dynojet 180/185 needles 4th notch+washers pilot #48 screws 2 turns, but idle still too rich)
Go back to an OE air filter, 45 pilot jets, lower the needles & get rid of the washers, and 2.5 turns out on the screws after cleaning the carbs, then sync and set idle at 1600
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:33 AM
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Emulsion tubes DO wear and cause driveability conerns. Since the needle rests on the bottom of the tube, and rides there, it will cause the emulsion tubes to wear out of round. You will be able to notice an egg shape to the tubes. I have seen this happen quite a few times.
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by skokievtr
Go back to an OE air filter, 45 pilot jets, lower the needles & get rid of the washers, and 2.5 turns out on the screws after cleaning the carbs, then sync and set idle at 1600

any leaner on my needles and I get carb farts even when warmed up.
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by maverick
Emulsion tubes DO wear and cause driveability conerns. Since the needle rests on the bottom of the tube, and rides there, it will cause the emulsion tubes to wear out of round. You will be able to notice an egg shape to the tubes. I have seen this happen quite a few times.
so sounds like I need to remove and clean and inspect for wear.
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