Bike won't start after winter sitting...
#1
Bike won't start after winter sitting...
Long story short, my hawk has been sitting (with stabil in the tank), for the winter. I had the good ole regulator failure right at the end of the season last year, and as lame as it sounds, just didn't have the extra money at the time to buy new parts.... In my diagnosing endevour, I had removed the stator to have it tested to make sure it too did not have a problem. Stator checked out good. The r/r was smoked and had taken out the connector with it. I decided to upgrade to an R1 r/r. So, I purchased a new one from the dealer, finally installed it last night. Put the stator back in with new gasket. Had the battery on a maintain charger so that was all set. Hooked everything up, cranked the motor a few times to get some oil about the engine since it's been sitting. Finally the moment of truth... Bike won't fire but cranks freely, I know it's getting fuel since I can smell it coming out the exhaust. Any one have any similar problems that might have a word of advice to a newbie with the hawk??? Thanks in advance for any advice!
#2
Have you verified that the plugs are firing?
Since you have been into the electrial system, and you know you are getting fuel, I'd want to be certain the plugs are firing.
Other than that, any chance the carbs were flooded?
Since you have been into the electrial system, and you know you are getting fuel, I'd want to be certain the plugs are firing.
Other than that, any chance the carbs were flooded?
#3
+1 on checking the plugs 1st as Brian suggests...if they are firing and if you had the tank off check to make sure you hooked up the vent and vac lines correctly on the petcock cuz that's an easy mistake to make
#4
As suggested, I was planning on checking the plugs this evening. It's still cold in ct and I was too cold/tired/full yesterday to bother taking the tank off last night. I will say up front that I am not very familiar with carbs... So I'm going to try to meddle with those as little as possible. I am doing my home work to learn though!
#6
Not to ask a stupid question, but I will..... do you have the kill switch in the Run position? A buddy of mine drained his battery trying to get his Hawk started one year and never realized he had it switched off.
#7
Killswitch was on for initial cranking since it had been sitting just to get the oil circulating. However, I didn't crank it long enough to flood the carbs I wouldn't think, as I have done that before, hopping on and forgetting to toggle the switch. Inderocker, I didn't run it after I added stabil, since my r/r was smoked. I did try to crank it a little after I added it though. Now that I think of it it surely wasn't enough to make it to the carbs... I have not dumped the tank, tank has not been off the bike since being in my possesion...
#8
Pull the plugs and make sure they aren't wet-fouled. If clean, try a shot of engine starter fluid. I think your carbs are gummy. You only stabilized the tank.
Last edited by superbling; 03-24-2008 at 02:41 PM.
#10
Update, checked for spark yesterday morning before leaving for work, it's zaptastic! I was thinking the cold was an issue, so I left the space heater on in the garage by the bike during the day. Got home from work last night, and went to crank the bike... vroom vroom she fired up! Started and idled fine, it seems that the bike may be overcharging though now.... Was charging at 14.5v at inital start-up, once warmed up and choke off, it was still charging at 14.1v.... Shut the bike off and my battery voltage is at 12.89v! I know this is only about 3/10 of a volt higher than normal battery voltage but I don't want anything else to go on my girl!
#11
Dusty, good to hear she's running! Can't help you with battery issues cuz I haven't replaced my R/R yet and we don't store our bikes in FL...we just ride them year round and when the battery goes we just buy a new one
#13
Thanks for the info! I had found some old posts by superbling that had eased my mind slightly when reading about his gsxr upgrade. I am going to attempt to put the fairings back on and take her for a ride later and see how she fares. My only other concern is that the r/r gets pretty freaking hot, even at idle, in a 28 degree garage.... I know this is normal but how hot is normal. I did use the search button and found a couple posts on additional ideas to help keep heat down, has any one performed any of these (i.e: pcu fans, drilling holes, ect.)? Sorry again about my noob-ism...
#14
I've even used furniture polish in a pinch over Starting Fluid.
#15
Not to go OT, but I need to conclude the saga of my hawk. So got home from work yesterday evening, was about 39 degrees out, so I decided to go to the mobile station about 3 miles away and put a fresh tank in'er. Put my reg/insurance stuff and a tool kit in the tail, check all my lights and off I go! Get about a mile and a half down rt12 and then *WHOOP WHOOP*. Aw crap. Cop walks up to me and informs me that my rear running lights are out. Ha-wha? Sure enough I get off the bike and take a look for myself (front ones still operational). I then explain to him that I just got the bike running and what my journey was for and showed him my tool kit in the tail in case anything happened. He was cool and let me go. But end result, bike running like a champ! Now on to this running light issue tonite....
#18
Just to update this. The r1 r/r mod has been working great, put about 700m on the bike since the mod and no problems. Would highly recommend this mod to anyone next time they have a honda r/r blink out!
#19
Thanks,
RC
#20
Bolts up with very little fuss at all. I basically used this as a reference -------> http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/ (repost). The only changes that I made were that I added the second bolt hole as the r1 r/r is wider than the stocker, and wanted the new unit to be secure (something about having an electrical part coming loose and swinging near my ***.... ).
You'll have to use slightly longer 10mm bolts also as the new r/r's body is thicker.
#21
Bolts up with very little fuss at all. I basically used this as a reference -------> http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/ (repost). The only changes that I made were that I added the second bolt hole as the r1 r/r is wider than the stocker, and wanted the new unit to be secure (something about having an electrical part coming loose and swinging near my ***.... ).
You'll have to use slightly longer 10mm bolts also as the new r/r's body is thicker.
You'll have to use slightly longer 10mm bolts also as the new r/r's body is thicker.
He Greg that white paper should be posted up for everyone to see if it's not already...I'd fix it but sometimes I have a hard time finding my hindpart with both hands
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