Battery Lesson Learned
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,216
From: Westerly, RI
Battery Lesson Learned
If you don't check the screws on your battery, start doing so.
I went to start the bike, no go. Go to check Voltage, and guess what I find. The top of the negative post was slag. The screw was still in the keeper with wires attached. Apperently, the screw got loose and wiggled in the post, causing arching and overheating and melted the lead post.
$90 (after discount) later, a few moments time and some blue thread lock applied, the new battery is installed and the Hawk lives again.
I'm adding this to a list of things to check on a regualr basis.
I went to start the bike, no go. Go to check Voltage, and guess what I find. The top of the negative post was slag. The screw was still in the keeper with wires attached. Apperently, the screw got loose and wiggled in the post, causing arching and overheating and melted the lead post.
$90 (after discount) later, a few moments time and some blue thread lock applied, the new battery is installed and the Hawk lives again.
I'm adding this to a list of things to check on a regualr basis.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,216
From: Westerly, RI
RPV, we've had a few ideas. The posts are lead. Possibly melting some fishing weights, let it hardened with a screw in it, then back the screw out. The hard part would be adding the melted weights to the battery without damaging the plastic. Hmm, would a soldering iron be hot enough?
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 308
I "tried" to remelt the lead back into the shape using popsicle sticks as guides and a dowell for the bolt hole, but the "molten" lead doesnt' adhere to the "cold" lead left in the post. It moulds to the shape, but when the molten lead cools, it doesn't bond, it stays 2 seperate peices.
It appears to need "flux" like solder does to get it to stick. I tried using soldering flux but with no luck. Wouldn't stick/bond.
BTW Cheap radio shack soldering irons aren't hot enough, but I know pro-grade units have adjustable temps...they might be able to do it.
It appears to need "flux" like solder does to get it to stick. I tried using soldering flux but with no luck. Wouldn't stick/bond.
BTW Cheap radio shack soldering irons aren't hot enough, but I know pro-grade units have adjustable temps...they might be able to do it.
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