I have APE CCT's fitted and its got to the point where the rear one is leaking oil badly. Not from the Gasket but from under the locknut.

So was told that i can replace the 'o' ring under the locknut, so had a quick look today and i can't see one...

Does anyone know should there be one there?
Or is it inside somewhere?

Otherwise its a TDC job and take it right out.

Can anyone confirm, thanks.

 

Its been a while but I recall the early APE CCT did not have an O-ring. What I would do is hold the tensioner bolt with a wrench (16mm?) and back off the nut with another (14 or 15mm), then tip the bike up on its nose to keep the oil off it (yoking), clean the threads & tensioner body with acetone (or another hydrocarbon solvent) followed by 90% isopropyl alcohol to clean off the oil. You could probably back out the bolt X# of turns of the head of the bolt (record how many) as well to clean the threads in the tensioner body. Then take some fresh HT silicone sealant (caulk) and apply it to the threads, then turn the bolt back in X3 of turns & snug up the lock nut. Allow the silicone to cure fully before starting the engine. Should work fine without disassembly. Note that the end of the bolt you see is actually not the real "head" end of the bolt. The head of the bolt you see is a nut drilled along with the true non-head end of the bolt with a roll pin through the hole to keep it from turning. Th real head of the bolt bears against the cam chain tensioner in the tunnel in the head.

 

Why not just back the locknut out about a half inch and slip work an o-ring over the adjuster nut and over the locknut and then re-tighten the locknut. yo would of course need the correct size o-ring (harbor freight has an o-ring kit with lots of sizes) and need to work it over both bolt nut heads carefully.

This way you would never have to un-tighten the adjuster nut and risk additinal work.

Just a thought. Mine has an o-ring and i figured if it ever started leaking this how i would fisrt try and fix it.

 

there is a o ring

http://img79.imageshack.us/my.php?image=apecctjt7.jpg

 

On early releases there were no O-rings (or it could have torn under compression) but one could be added as stated by Thumper by CAREFULLY sliding a properly sized one over the bolt head & nut (use a little vasolene). However, use of HT silicone is also a cheap and effectice alternative.

 

Cheers for all the replies chaps and the pics.
On another inspection i did find the remains of an 'o'ring compressed into the thread and body and so i took it out.
Managed to slip a new 'o'ring over the nuts and into place.
Started up and left to run till hot and no signs of a leak so im now happy.
Many thanks.