after investigation a mouse sighting, i removed my airbox.. on doing so i discovered a nest and a K&N filter. (bike is new to me). took care of the nest and orders a stock air filter, aftermarket but oem style. i noticed these caps and they were not on the right sides they were switched.. no biggie. i am very familiar with CV carbs but have never seen them have separate vents to the out side air . most vent back though the carb into the inlet space to the airbox. any how. i discovered really bad sub-filters. i have some filter material so i made some.

my question is does anyone now if there is a specific air weight that this filter is supposed to make in those caps? i now that the filters are 1.66$ each but i have to order them and i have to drive to the shop then tell them what they are for. then argue that i know what i am talking about. and i am cheap.

 

I made my own out of foam pieces (i had lying around the garage) and sprayed a little filter oil on them. Hold the foam to a light to see if light passes through. Held foam on a little piece of wood and pressed firmly to mark foam and cut to fit. Can paint edge of filter and push foam against for outline also.

The foam i used is similar to filter foam you can buy to make custom filters that are meant to be oiled. I have filter oil and perimeter grease which I used also to make a foam filer insert to replace the OEM I cut out(leaving the metal screen in tact). That's my story.

 

Can someone explain to me the issue with using K&N or BMC race filters to flow more air?
With aftermarket exhaust and a jet kit does this not help or does it hurt performance?

I'm fairly new to modding superhawks.

 

I think you can find plenty of info on this if you search air filters, jetting, etc. Personally, I use a homemade oiled foam filter ,which is likely equal to those you mention, and it works great with .040in shimmed needles, OEM jetting, air mixture screw turned 2.25 out, tps at 500, and partial bafflectomy. No dyno to verify, but runs good throughout the whole rpm rangeIMO.

 

Since I'm in a good mood you won't get the "go search" reply... But you won't get a very elaborate explanation either, for that... Well you know how...

The basics is simple more air and fuel = more power... But it has to maintain balance... More air without more fuel = less performance and the opposite is also true...

Most cars and bikes have a crappy airbox and restricted flow, meaning a aftermarket filter and some carb/FI adjustments gains "free hp"... The VTR isn't restricted here, it is comparatively "good" in the airbox/flow department... Adding a freeflowing filter and upping the fuel only means wasted fuel... Adding freeflowing pipes doesn't change much... At best you get equal performance, or a few measly more hp... But that always comes at a loss somewhere else in the powerband...

To use the added flow and added fuel you need to swap engine internals... When you do that, a new airfilter might gain you power... If you don't, leave it stock...

Simple, right?

 

i did this. the foam was a bit thicker by i did test it, in place and it seams to breath well.. i put a bit of filter oil on as well.. the new filter will have the built in caps which will be nice.

 

You may do it already.........if you use the strap method to lift the front of the fuel tank, you can get in and out of there in a heartbeat. Makes access to the carbs so much easier than screwing with those pesky hoses in the rear of the tank. Best not to have the tank full as fuel wants to exit via the overflow vent hose, so you need a pan under there to catch it.

 

i noticed this the other day when working on it. i am going to try this when i replace the filter.

 

this is the best way to do anything up top, remove carbs, set tps, filter, throttle cable carb sync, etc. Click this link below:



https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...trap+lift+tank