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Adding 2nd cooling fan

Old 10-29-2007, 07:46 PM
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Adding 2nd cooling fan

I've been stuck in traffic a few times and had her get fairly hot on me even with the oem fan...and when the this last one stopped working, I ordered a new fan on ebay...only to realize too late that it was the temp sending unit.

So the jist is, I have a spare superhawk fan just sitting here. I was thinking about zip-tying it to the left-side radiator and running it on a manual switch for those hot days, or say at the drag strip if I want to cool the bike down quickly between passes when I get to racing her. What do yall think is the best way to do this....running a switch from the ground (short wire...may be tricky to splice)....or running a straight ground and a 10a inline fuse power lead to a switch mounted on the frame near the fan...with the fuse just after the battery.

I remember seeing one of my mechanics test the old fan to see if it works...but it was strange because I swear I remember him able to power it on with a powerprobe without grounding it.

Anyone do this before...any tips? I don't need an electrical fire between my legs.
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Old 10-29-2007, 07:50 PM
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idk but i have 2 fans one off the cracked rad and the other one on the new one i got so i wll be trying this also
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Old 10-29-2007, 07:59 PM
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Never put the switch on the ground side, unless you like fire......
Always put the switch (and fuse) on the power side. So your second set up is the one to use.
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Old 10-29-2007, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
Never put the switch on the ground side, unless you like fire......
Always put the switch (and fuse) on the power side. So your second set up is the one to use.
Why do you say that? Last time I switched a positive lead, the wire scraped the coating off and grounded on my car door and started a small fire from the battery out.

If the ground switch grounds.....it's just going to keep the fan going til it gets broken?
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Old 10-29-2007, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperHawkins View Post
Why do you say that? Last time I switched a positive lead, the wire scraped the coating off and grounded on my car door and started a small fire from the battery out.

If the ground switch grounds.....it's just going to keep the fan going til it gets broken?
So where was your fuse when you grounded the positive lead?? No fuse = fire. If you switch on the ground, you have no way of turning the fan off if it overloads or shorts to ground before the switch. You can do whatever you want but if you want to be safe then run a fused power lead to the switch and a straight ground.
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
So where was your fuse when you grounded the positive lead?? No fuse = fire. If you switch on the ground, you have no way of turning the fan off if it overloads or shorts to ground before the switch. You can do whatever you want but if you want to be safe then run a fused power lead to the switch and a straight ground.
Yeah, that was back in the day and I didn't fuse it. I do better wiring jobs now.

I just kinda figured if it shorted or overloaded on the ground-side, it'd over-draw and pop the fuse on the power-side....but I suppose that might not necessarily happen. Point taken. I just never liked the idea of running a length of positive lead around brackets etc.
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
So where was your fuse when you grounded the positive lead?? No fuse = fire. If you switch on the ground, you have no way of turning the fan off if it overloads or shorts to ground before the switch. You can do whatever you want but if you want to be safe then run a fused power lead to the switch and a straight ground.
+1 fusing the power is the right way to go. Fusing the ground won't help at all if it overloads, which is the entire point of the fuse. So basicly it would be the same as no fuse at all.
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:15 PM
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Why not just wire it to the 1st fan's supply? The temp reg will turn them both on and off when necessary.
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by redman View Post
Why not just wire it to the 1st fan's supply? The temp reg will turn them both on and off when necessary.
Why even waste time putting the second fan on, I have never had my get that hot in hotter than heck summer months in rush hour traffic. 98 model has a dial gauge, as soon as the temp needle crosses midway point fan comes on anf the needle goes back below midway point.

I run the blue keep kewl coolant. Maybe you are running to lean jetting and causing excessive heat or need to replace an aging thermostat. Seems strange that you would need to put a second fan on her.
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Old 10-30-2007, 06:44 PM
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Actually according to the temp gauge she runs cool as hell. My local shop was convinced she's overheating. Well I installed the fan and a new fan temp switch today and idled it for like 10 mins and kept it at 2k rpms for a while and it got up to a little past halfway and the fan still didn't turn on. Fuse is okay. I don't know how hot she's actually getting, but the fan never really seems to come on. I just figured I had another laying around so I could mount it and manually trigger it since the stock fan doesn't seem to come on until the bike is 3/4 up the gauge.
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Old 10-30-2007, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperHawkins View Post
Actually according to the temp gauge she runs cool as hell. My local shop was convinced she's overheating. Well I installed the fan and a new fan temp switch today and idled it for like 10 mins and kept it at 2k rpms for a while and it got up to a little past halfway and the fan still didn't turn on. Fuse is okay. I don't know how hot she's actually getting, but the fan never really seems to come on. I just figured I had another laying around so I could mount it and manually trigger it since the stock fan doesn't seem to come on until the bike is 3/4 up the gauge.

Sounds like you still got something wrong with the sending unit. I have first hand knowledge of three old SHawks with the Analog dial/needle gauge. All three activate the fan when the needle moves one needle width past half way on the guage. Mine has never gotten above one needle width distance past half way mark.
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:02 PM
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Well I had it right about that point today and had to take off....didn't want to get it any hotter. Wish I knew what temp that was...Id like to keep her under 210 really.
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:09 PM
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Let me know how it works. My prediction is alot of rider overheating from all the push-starts after the battery dies. I live in NYC & tried the fan on a switch thing. This was my findings. I did put in a much bigger oil cooler which did help a bit though. Cheap & easy off ebay.
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Old 10-31-2007, 06:37 AM
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mine has run over 210 (digtal temp gauge) and I wired the fan ckt so I can turn it on at will and still remain automatic - it does help. Usually only gets hot in stop and go traffic.
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Old 10-31-2007, 12:16 PM
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Why not simply wire the fan via relay (Direct power from battery with fuse, control to relay from headlight power). It will come one any time the headlight is on (and the "Whirrrrrr" noise will remind you to turn off your bike/headlight) when you stop. It's not like it would OVERCOOL the the engine being on all the time.

I've got 2 3" box fans that move 150cfm each on the "other" radiator. They come on anytime the headlight is on as desribed above. By running all the time, they keep the bike temp gauge between 1/4 and 1/2 98% of the time. That 2% of the time on really hot days, in slow traffic, the "main" cooling fan kicks on and quickly drops temps to normal. Run time is under 2 minutes.

Last edited by RPV-Hawk; 10-31-2007 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 11-01-2007, 12:08 AM
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Not a bad idea RPV but running an electric motor always-on I know is a good way to burn them out. My old mustang was all kinds of hopped-up for a street car and I ran an electric fan wired to a switch on it so I'm very well used to the habit of switching it on and off.

RickB....care to describe how you did that? Or you have a schematic? That'd be pretty ideal to be able to force it on, but leave the switch off and still maintain the temp-related on.
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Old 11-01-2007, 06:34 AM
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I just added a wire to the temp sender that goes to a small rocker switch I glued to the underside of the plastic front master cylinder... the other wire goes to a ground on the clipon. The sending unit just completes the circuit to ground via the radiator when it hits the proper temp... the switch just provides the ground when I want it to run the fan and it will not interfere with normal operation if the switch is off.


Originally Posted by SuperHawkins View Post
Not a bad idea RPV but running an electric motor always-on I know is a good way to burn them out. My old mustang was all kinds of hopped-up for a street car and I ran an electric fan wired to a switch on it so I'm very well used to the habit of switching it on and off.

RickB....care to describe how you did that? Or you have a schematic? That'd be pretty ideal to be able to force it on, but leave the switch off and still maintain the temp-related on.
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Old 11-01-2007, 06:41 AM
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I suppose "they" don't make a sensor/sending unit that closes circuit at a lower temp? Of course, maybe it's a generic unit and a lower temp model could be found. Maybe for a car??? Just match the threaded end. Hmmmm......
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