installed new spark plugs and new r/r. no difference. still won't run

 

What did you mean by "my hand gets covered in gas" when you spoke about the carbs getting gas?


Are the plugs wet after you try and start it? Meaning: Is it flooding?


Sometimes what seems like good spark is actually not good. I personally would swap the coils. While you're at it you may as well get the coil-on-plug upgrade like I did (see my sig).


I had a TRX250R that I used to take to the desert. One time it wouldn't start all day. I had installed a new aftermarket coil, and the spark appeared fine. I reinstalled the OEM Honda plug and it fired up right away!


Bottom line: Gas, Air, Spark, Compression. Sounds like you just need to verify you don't have too much gas (flooding), or too little spark.


Is there anyone with a spare set of coils you can temporarily hook up?


James

 

If your really sure your getting good enough compression spark and gas. Along with reasonable valve clearance.

My next guess would be icm and Cdi. Mine would randomly drop spark, sputter and not idle, stumble when running. It caused pretty much ungiagnosable problems. Can't test em from what I've read so u would need a swap to check

 

Didn't think about the Computer.... Good call. Could be that.


James

 

So you are saying that with great spark you cant even get starting fluid to burn? I have seen really awful motors at least run on starting fluid.

What is your battery voltage? Sometimes it sounds lilke its strong enuff but is really the culprit.

Have you ever seen the bike run? Could it have an ignition cut off or maybe the sidestand switch is fouled? It sounds strange that a spinning motor cant fire on starting fluid.

How much do you know (first hand) about the bike. Just folklore & hearsay?

I hate to admit it, but after all that mokeying around I would take it to a (hopefully) honest shop. Tell them what you did (or dont) and tell them you want it running as cheap as possibly.

In farness I only really did that once when I drilled through the wiring harness. Fixed all the wires but still no tach. Had to bite the bullet.

 

There is a very important group of connections at the forward side of the seat and just under the tail of the tank. Mine were wet, corroded, melted. I decided to cut out the connectors and hard wire it with shrink wrap. Worked and has for years but be cautioned. Don't clip anything more than the stock connectors. The wires just barely reach if you don't maximize your wire length.


My bike did the same thing. Sputter - almost - not.


Don't overthink a Superhawk - fuel - air - ignition.

 

with the airbox lid off, I can choke the carbs by putting my hand over the velocity stacks, my hand gets wet. And after trying a few times the plug is slightly wet. And the bike won't start with kickstand switch unhooked, so that's not it. I've checked and rechecked all wires. my battery is 12.8 volts, should be enough to run. I have a spare icm and cdi, i've tried both with no difference. Is there a way to test the coils to see if they're bad?

 

If the coilsa are giving good spark then that should be enuff. Are you only trying the hand choke method? The hawk doesnt love an open airbox.

Have you seen the inside of the carbs? Sounds like maybe stuck float if that much fuel is wetting your hands.

Even a diaphragm wrongly seated can be a problem, as can carb boots not seated or tightened.

12.8 is good but are you charging it between start sessions. A jump-starter pack can help since they just have a motorcycle battery inside them anyway.

Sometimes a few CCA's and a spray of starting fluid will push you over the edge.

Finally, I had a deal where my bike would only start if I hit the starter with NO choke for a few turns, the slowly opened the choke as I kept cranking it.

Went a couple years like that but it simply wouldn't start with full choke right away.

 

Have u tried downloading the manual and using the troubleshooting step by step?

The manual can tell you a series of electrical tests to perform. Because if you %100 positive it's getting enough(not too much fuel. Should have enough compression, clearances should be good it has to be electrical and or timing. Assuming those finding ls are correct.

Maybe to see if floats are bad and to see if its giving way to much fuel maybe smell your oil and see if it smells like gas.

I'd redo everything stock as possible with airbox n everything. This bike can be picky but man this is nuts.

Only other possible things I can think of.... Non iridium plugs? Stock air filter, nuetral switch, kick stand switch.

I'd still recommend using the Troubleshooting in the manual

 

Kill switch?