2005 vtr1000f hitting limiter at just over 8000 rpm
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Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
2005 vtr1000f hitting limiter at just over 8000 rpm
Hi all Ross here I brought a vtr1000 firestorm and I did the oil and filter and the air filter took her out for a run and noticed that it limited at just over 8000 rpm... the bike did have a BMC air filter and I changed to the oem filter could that cause this issue.. help please
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Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
I don't think I'll be able to get footage as when in neutral it revs all the way up past 9 but going down the road it hits about 8,200 rpm and it's like it is on a limiter if I tried to get footage of this on the road I think I'd bin myself and the bike.. could the bike be jetted and set up for the bmc air filter and now that I've changed it back to stock could this be starving the air enough to cause this issue? Also the bike was only at about 76 degrees Celsius when testing I have also noticed that I obviously have an after market temp sensor as my Thermos kick in at 75 degrees celcuis
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MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,213
From: Gettysburg, Pa
Simply changing the filter shouldn't cause the issue you describe. It would more than likely just go lean or rich a bit (aside from possible non-smooth fueling).
Definitely don't try the vid while riding!
If you want to eliminate air filter possibilities, put the BMC back in.
Definitely don't try the vid while riding!
If you want to eliminate air filter possibilities, put the BMC back in.
VTR virgin
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 447
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Running out of puff at high rpm might also be a sign that one of the cylinders is running out of phase due to one of the cam pairs being incorrectly timed to the crank. Has the bike suffered from a previous cam chain failure that required corrective surgery? The bike would run just fine (and no harm is caused) but there's some interference with airflow at high rpm that causes a loss of power. Or so I've read. To test that theory would require some investigation of the crank and cams with the cam covers off. With some lateral thinking you can probably work out when the cylinders are at TDC based on the feeling of compression when turning the crank. The timing shoud be Front-270-Rear-450- Front. The service manual has the required camshaft installation from page 8-20.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,987
From: Bisbee, AZ
Running out of puff at high rpm might also be a sign that one of the cylinders is running out of phase due to one of the cam pairs being incorrectly timed to the crank. Has the bike suffered from a previous cam chain failure that required corrective surgery? The bike would run just fine (and no harm is caused) but there's some interference with airflow at high rpm that causes a loss of power. Or so I've read. To test that theory would require some investigation of the crank and cams with the cam covers off. With some lateral thinking you can probably work out when the cylinders are at TDC based on the feeling of compression when turning the crank. The timing shoud be Front-270-Rear-450- Front. The service manual has the required camshaft installation from page 8-20.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
Running out of puff at high rpm might also be a sign that one of the cylinders is running out of phase due to one of the cam pairs being incorrectly timed to the crank. Has the bike suffered from a previous cam chain failure that required corrective surgery? The bike would run just fine (and no harm is caused) but there's some interference with airflow at high rpm that causes a loss of power. Or so I've read. To test that theory would require some investigation of the crank and cams with the cam covers off. With some lateral thinking you can probably work out when the cylinders are at TDC based on the feeling of compression when turning the crank. The timing shoud be Front-270-Rear-450- Front. The service manual has the required camshaft installation from page 8-20.
VTR virgin
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 447
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Does the bike have manual camchain tensioners or automatic ones fitted? The VTR is reasonably well known for front camchain failures, which result in the piston clipping the valves and bending them, which requires a bit of repair work. Putting the cams back in out of phase can happen during the reassembly.
If you take off the inspection cover on the left side of the engine and use a socket (17mm I think) to rotate the engine clockwise, you should feel the front cylinder come up on on compression (listen for the hissing as the valves open) and then 3/4 of a turn later the rear cylinder should do the same. If there is an extra revolution (so 1 3/4 turns) before the rear head comes to compression, then the timing is at fault as I described. A competent mechanic would be able to sort this inside an hour and with no parts I believe.
If you take off the inspection cover on the left side of the engine and use a socket (17mm I think) to rotate the engine clockwise, you should feel the front cylinder come up on on compression (listen for the hissing as the valves open) and then 3/4 of a turn later the rear cylinder should do the same. If there is an extra revolution (so 1 3/4 turns) before the rear head comes to compression, then the timing is at fault as I described. A competent mechanic would be able to sort this inside an hour and with no parts I believe.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
Does the bike have manual camchain tensioners or automatic ones fitted? The VTR is reasonably well known for front camchain failures, which result in the piston clipping the valves and bending them, which requires a bit of repair work. Putting the cams back in out of phase can happen during the reassembly.
If you take off the inspection cover on the left side of the engine and use a socket (17mm I think) to rotate the engine clockwise, you should feel the front cylinder come up on on compression (listen for the hissing as the valves open) and then 3/4 of a turn later the rear cylinder should do the same. If there is an extra revolution (so 1 3/4 turns) before the rear head comes to compression, then the timing is at fault as I described. A competent mechanic would be able to sort this inside an hour and with no parts I believe.
If you take off the inspection cover on the left side of the engine and use a socket (17mm I think) to rotate the engine clockwise, you should feel the front cylinder come up on on compression (listen for the hissing as the valves open) and then 3/4 of a turn later the rear cylinder should do the same. If there is an extra revolution (so 1 3/4 turns) before the rear head comes to compression, then the timing is at fault as I described. A competent mechanic would be able to sort this inside an hour and with no parts I believe.
VTR virgin
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 447
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
Simply changing the filter shouldn't cause the issue you describe. It would more than likely just go lean or rich a bit (aside from possible non-smooth fueling).
Definitely don't try the vid while riding!
If you want to eliminate air filter possibilities, put the BMC back in.
Definitely don't try the vid while riding!
If you want to eliminate air filter possibilities, put the BMC back in.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
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