Tweety

Just double checking my memory... I remembered to include the charge indicator right? If not let me know... It's good for knowing when there is a problem...

FL02SupaHawk996

Yep, I got the charge indicator light but haven't wired it up yet cuz not sure where to tap in at. Where do you like to wire it in?

Tweety

I would recommend the dashboard lighting... Then it comes on when the bike is on... Should see the low voltage warning on ignition on but engine off/cranking & possibly at idle... Then you know it's working, and won't have to wonder when it's not lit up if the bike is working ok or the indicator is broken...

FL02SupaHawk996

I remember you said to use the dashboard lighting in your instructions, but when I pulled it off I didn't see the bulb socket that's described in the manual. Are the 2002+ models different?

Tweety

The newer dash uses a mix of bulbs and LED's I think... Dunno for sure, but I'd probably splice into the wire instead then... It should be a solid brown wire for positive and a green or green with black stripes for ground/neg according to US spec wiring diagram... Verify them before hookup if possible, but the circuit is protected so worst case you only blow a fuse, nothing goes poof...

FL02SupaHawk996

Thanks, I'll let you know if I get electrocuted

FL02SupaHawk996

Tweety, what should I use if I ever need to charge the battery? I do have an old LiIon led bike light battery charger I could splice up. Would something like that be better to use then a regular 6v/12v batter charger?

FL02SupaHawk996

I calculated my displacement went up by just over 10cc to 1006cc now. You may be thinking that ain't squat, but combined with a few stage 1 aftermarket goodies it feels like a lot!

Tweety

Well... No... not really... It can start the bike cold more than 10-15 times... (probably around 20-30, but can't say for sure) and crank the bike until the starter overheats... So you have to manage to do that without figuring out what's wrong with the bike before it will really need charging... That's highly unlikely to happen...

And if you really need to charge it, the best way is to bumpstart the bike and once you have ridden it around the block twice it should have enough juice to start the bike again if it just dipped down to where it almost started, but not quite... 5-10 miles from home it's fully charged...

If you really, really need to charge it for some reason, 14V 0.5-5A for the apropriorate time is the best way... Ie 0.5A = 9 hours from dead to absolutely full (unlikely), and 2A means 2,3 hours... 5A means a full charge in about 45 minutes... You can actually charge it at 10A, but then you risk overcharging it... The "dumber" the charger is the better...

FL02SupaHawk996

I'll try to ride it at least once every week in an effort to keep it charged, but I just wanted a backup plan

I've never had much luck bump starting it cuz FL is mostly FLAT and now it'll be hard to roll those big fat Morwi cams over, so I'll look around for a 14V charger

Tweety

Um... Unless you have a big battery drain, you shouldn't need to even worry... If the battery is left unconnected it takes more than a year for it to drop enough of a charge to be even measurable... And since it will happily start the bike from a 100% charge to roughly 5% it should take a few years...

If you do have a big drain (clock, whatever) say 10 mA? then it still takes (4700/(10*24))= ~20 days, so say at least 14 days before the battery is depleted enough to even begin to worry... And that's a big drain... mostly it's below 1mA for a clock, so then ~200 days... If that happens to be the case and you need to store the bike for a longer time, just unplug the battery and you are good to go once it's plugged in... Actually if it's a strictly weekend bike, if you unplug it between uses you will never, ever need a charger...

So far I have needed to charge mine exactly once (besides testing purposes)... And that includes sitting almost two months with the clock ticking without riding... So I doubt you'll ever need that charger...

BTW, most "dumb" SLA chargers are 14V/0.5-1A... Those are perfect, and you should be able to purchase one in just about any gas station for peanuts...... And if you use one... Charge for 10-15 minutes and it's enough to start the bike, then let the bike do the rest...

FL02SupaHawk996

Thanks Man!

cliby

in fact, it probably aint squat. its all the other changes including the HC part of the pistons.

mikstr

It`s just slightly more than squat. Cionsidering it represents a 1% bump in displacement, it probably accounts for gains of about 1.3 hp and .8 lb-ft (considering the state of tune, of course), not enough to notice but, as in all things, a bit here and a bit there and it all adds up......

FL02SupaHawk996

Mikstr, it's about time for you to get started on yours, so what do you need to get started?

Tweety

Doesn't matter much... I wan't squat... I'm getting there... Slowly... I keep getting sidetracked...

Had an offer to buy an ex race engine for my SP2 yesterday... I'm almost certain I don't need 165'ish rearwheel horsepower... But the evil, moneysucking part of my brain keeps arguing I can't know that for sure until I have tried it... It's also advocating for a S/C SP2... Or VTR... Or both...

FL02SupaHawk996

SP2 = RC51 right? I'd go with NA 165 hp before S/C cuz it's more manageable...if you don't have a good grip when the boost comes in you may see the rear end of your bike as it leaves you on yours

Tweety

Yeah, SP1/SP2 are what you call the RC51...

Not really... I have had some riding time on both a S/C Aprilia Mille (http://www.spoonvalleyracing.se/Movi...20res/Mr.R.mpg) and a Turbo'ed busa with a tad over 600 at the rear wheel... Both are easily managed... The S/C'ed Mille is a big friendly pussycat... The boost is linear, unsurprising and it just keeps going, and going, and going towards redline...

But the sane part of my mind keep telling me that I'm sposed to ride them both on the road, so a STG 1 engine is enough for the VTR, and a mild tune-up on the SP2 should be plenty... That reminds me... I should listen to my sane side once in a while...

FL02SupaHawk996

Leave the sanity for dreams...this is real life we're talkin about so boost it and show us all how so we can following in your footsteps

heng47

Would you guys happen to be talking about LiFePo4 batteries?

I'm thinking of hooking up my own set too for reasons I shall mention another time. Are you guys using 4cell or 8cell packs?

Tweety

Yes, we are... Well, 4 cell/8 cell is really a vague specification unless you specify what type cells, so you know the capacity (there are several sizes, even though the most well known are 26650 cells also known as M1 cells)... I'm using 8 (2*4) cells to give me a 4,6 Ah battery... That's more than enough for the VTR... 4 of them for 2,3 Ah is juuust enough, but leaves a slim reserve...

heng47

I figured there's really only 1 viable option for those batteries since the others don't hold enough of a charge. Yes, the 26650 cells from A123 are the ones I'm thinking of. Are you using the same method off the r1forum?

I don't really want to solder them together because I think batteries don't like heat and it just feels messy. I'll probably vac-form my own casings instead.

Tweety

I'm soldering, works fine if you have the right tools for quick and short heat, don't want to heat soak them... What method is used on the r1 forum?

Tweety

There are larger round cells, can't remeber the designation right now, but 4 of them replace a larger car battery quite easily...

heng47

They're wrapped in 4 pairs, the + ends are soldered together, the - ends are connected with a kind of jumped bar, also soldered on. Rather crude, but his methods for monitoring the voltage and his balancing circuits are quite interesting.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268406

I'm not sure of the designation too, usually see people refer to them by colour. Green or yellow. Avoid yellow.

Tweety

Well... I dunno how you look at things, but the method on the link is what I would refer to as "soldering"... Using "bus bars" are common practice...

FL02SupaHawk996

I put another 50 miles on the new motor this morning and it's nice and smooth through all the gears up to 6K RPM then I get some hesitation, but I'll work that out on the Dyno...

Man the tranny is smooth as butter which is a huge surprise since it wouldn't shift at all initially

That new hot rod motor sound is not only heard but you can actually feel it as those big slugs roll over those fat Morwi cams. It's not the same bike anymore. However, IMHO it's now where it should be and where Honda shouldda built it to begin with...

heng47

There is someone else using capacitative discharge instead of soldering so as not to damage the cells. I don't know enough about batteries to say which is the better method though.

Tweety

Done right both have fairly negligable effects on the batteries, but the capacitive discharge welding is easier to do in large batches, so people doing "assembly line" production is naturally using that option... Both have the ability to damage the cell severely if done incorrect... So, if you are doing your own pack... solder it... If you go pro, weld...

BTW, we are getting a bit too of topic here... Start a thread on the topic and I'll answear, but otherwise, back to the Stage 1 bike...

RWhisen

Done correctly, soldering does not harm the cells. Use plenty of quality flux, not the dry crap you get from Radio Shack. Some good paste flux used on the battery ends and connecting bars will only require less than 5 seconds of heat to make a proper jont if the joints are properly tinned and a hot enough iron is used. I have soldered many, many batteries (NiCad, LiPo and NiMh) and have never lost a cell through heat while soldering.