SuperBike Bar Kit #2
SuperBike Bar Kit #2
OK ladies and germs, here's my second kit. It's mounted on a vfr but it's no different in method than my first one for the VTR. It is different in materials tho'.
Here's a link to the first time for those unfamiliar with that:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ight=superbike
For the second edition, I found these TAG risers (5mm rise option) are a little better looking IMO than the previous moose racing units and are cheaper too (gotta' luv that). I did splurge on a renthal bar over the basic handlebar I used the first time. I think it's powder coated too.
I got the risers from parts411.com for $38
http://www.parts411.com/acb/showdetl...46851&CATID=41
but they have a $40 dollar minimum (grrrr) so I got an set of grips that I would need anyway. So the min. didn't really bother me. :-) Shipping was quick.
You'll need a 1/2inch drill bit for the riser's mounting bolt holes through the clamp and some washers/lock washer for spacers underneath the clamp since the TAG riser is designed to mount to it's own triple clamp. It's best to remove the top triple, all the controls, and drill it off the bike. Although I have drilled it on the bike too, I don't recommend it. YMMV.
After mounting the risers on both bikes (vfr and vtr), I rotated the bars in the clamps as far back and up as the controls would let me. Throttle cables are the limiting factors with brake/clutch lines next. The wiring on both bikes had plenty of slack. You may have to reroute throttle and brake lines to gain slack or unbolt from locking points (i.e, clutch line). In the end, on both bikes I found it less frustrating to go ahead and remove the tank and airbox to release the throttle cables from the carbs for rerouting as the throttle tube end is to big to push/pull through in the tight confines of the forks.
It takes a good while to set it all up for clearance but patience is a virtue! NOTE: The VTR requires fairing trimming if you want decent bar height (and that's the point isn't it?) whereas the VFR has no clearance issues with either the fairing or the tank (suh-weet). PLEASE check for any clearance or slack issues at full lock on both sides with the forks full extended (on a jack, wheel stand or centerstand); especially the throttle!
You can probably get away with a flatter bar with more pull back and possibly avoid fairing trimming issues but VFR bars would then be a much better solution.
Here's a link to the first time for those unfamiliar with that:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ight=superbike
For the second edition, I found these TAG risers (5mm rise option) are a little better looking IMO than the previous moose racing units and are cheaper too (gotta' luv that). I did splurge on a renthal bar over the basic handlebar I used the first time. I think it's powder coated too.
I got the risers from parts411.com for $38
http://www.parts411.com/acb/showdetl...46851&CATID=41
but they have a $40 dollar minimum (grrrr) so I got an set of grips that I would need anyway. So the min. didn't really bother me. :-) Shipping was quick.
You'll need a 1/2inch drill bit for the riser's mounting bolt holes through the clamp and some washers/lock washer for spacers underneath the clamp since the TAG riser is designed to mount to it's own triple clamp. It's best to remove the top triple, all the controls, and drill it off the bike. Although I have drilled it on the bike too, I don't recommend it. YMMV.
After mounting the risers on both bikes (vfr and vtr), I rotated the bars in the clamps as far back and up as the controls would let me. Throttle cables are the limiting factors with brake/clutch lines next. The wiring on both bikes had plenty of slack. You may have to reroute throttle and brake lines to gain slack or unbolt from locking points (i.e, clutch line). In the end, on both bikes I found it less frustrating to go ahead and remove the tank and airbox to release the throttle cables from the carbs for rerouting as the throttle tube end is to big to push/pull through in the tight confines of the forks.
It takes a good while to set it all up for clearance but patience is a virtue! NOTE: The VTR requires fairing trimming if you want decent bar height (and that's the point isn't it?) whereas the VFR has no clearance issues with either the fairing or the tank (suh-weet). PLEASE check for any clearance or slack issues at full lock on both sides with the forks full extended (on a jack, wheel stand or centerstand); especially the throttle!
You can probably get away with a flatter bar with more pull back and possibly avoid fairing trimming issues but VFR bars would then be a much better solution.
Hey, Im young and I want to put a set of bars on my hawk. Im also in the process of turning my GSXR750 into a street fighter. I love the looks of sport bikes but I like not feeling pain at the end of a long ride. Thanks for the info SuperBling! Im ordering my parts now!
~Brian
~Brian
tag riser part #
Hi Doug
I clicked your link for the tag risers put it took me to the wrong part (a triple clamp). Is T-4092-pu the correct part # for the 5mm riserr @ parts 411? Also, have you done any track days on either bike with this setup? I'm wondering if there is any major difference in handling when entering/exiting corners? Thanks for the Help !!!
I clicked your link for the tag risers put it took me to the wrong part (a triple clamp). Is T-4092-pu the correct part # for the 5mm riserr @ parts 411? Also, have you done any track days on either bike with this setup? I'm wondering if there is any major difference in handling when entering/exiting corners? Thanks for the Help !!!
Hi Doug
I clicked your link for the tag risers put it took me to the wrong part (a triple clamp). Is T-4092-pu the correct part # for the 5mm riserr @ parts 411? Also, have you done any track days on either bike with this setup? I'm wondering if there is any major difference in handling when entering/exiting corners? Thanks for the Help !!!
I clicked your link for the tag risers put it took me to the wrong part (a triple clamp). Is T-4092-pu the correct part # for the 5mm riserr @ parts 411? Also, have you done any track days on either bike with this setup? I'm wondering if there is any major difference in handling when entering/exiting corners? Thanks for the Help !!!
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...656&division=6
Well they changed up their site and that link as you've discovered now goes to another item. And they are now using one stock photo for all items. Mine have a separate allen head bolt that threads into the riser; whereas, they only show a bolt all ready threaded (permanent?) into the riser. I don't think it would really matter and may even be preferable as the allen head is difficult to reach when installed.
Anyway, yes T-4092-pu is the right part number. Here's a fresh link but they'll probably change it again.
http://www.parts411.com/acb/showdetl...46116&CATID=41
No I have done a track day with this. I would think the "hot" setup would be an additional straight-ish type bar. Take about 15 min to switch out once you have it all sorted.
Anyway, yes T-4092-pu is the right part number. Here's a fresh link but they'll probably change it again.
http://www.parts411.com/acb/showdetl...46116&CATID=41
No I have done a track day with this. I would think the "hot" setup would be an additional straight-ish type bar. Take about 15 min to switch out once you have it all sorted.
I just bought some of these mounts from Motorcycle Superstore.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...656&division=6
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...656&division=6
Tommydgbr,
Go back to the first page and follow the link to my first attempt. Scroll down a few posts in that older thread and you'll see a link for the set I first used. I recommend anything around those specs or lower. The risers give you a lot of height so the bars are really more for pullback.
My current setup in this thread is on a VFR so I wouldn't want to recommend it for the VTR. This renthal bar was a lot more $$ than the original but it is powdercoated instead of painted. Even after multiple adjustments in the mounts and switchgear to get things right, it hardly has any wear whereas the painted bar scratched easily. Not a big deal if you're real careful and not ham fisted like me. Others might want to opt for chrome but I wanted gold for the VFR.
Go back to the first page and follow the link to my first attempt. Scroll down a few posts in that older thread and you'll see a link for the set I first used. I recommend anything around those specs or lower. The risers give you a lot of height so the bars are really more for pullback.
My current setup in this thread is on a VFR so I wouldn't want to recommend it for the VTR. This renthal bar was a lot more $$ than the original but it is powdercoated instead of painted. Even after multiple adjustments in the mounts and switchgear to get things right, it hardly has any wear whereas the painted bar scratched easily. Not a big deal if you're real careful and not ham fisted like me. Others might want to opt for chrome but I wanted gold for the VFR.
It is a good looking bar, I plan on going with a $ Renthal due to the *BLING* factor, they look nice! The LSL kit uses a chrome bar that my only use for would be as a trash bag wieghter downer. I'm going to start my little project within the next few weeks. I'll post some pics when done.
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