I just did mine, took an hour. You will have to remove the exhaust as the rear header is in the way of the bottom mount. I removed the cans, removed the front header then the rear header. Spray all the bolts with release spray the night before you start. Top mount bolt will require a 14mm socket on a universal, there is a welded nut on my O3. Bottom mount and the linkage mount are 17mm nuts on 14mm bolts. Break loose all three then lift the back tire off the ground. I used my stand to raise the bike then bungy to a rafter and removed the stand. Remove the bottom bolts, remove the top bolt and slide the shock out the bottom. Install the new shock and reverse the process. 33lb/ft on the shock bolts. Cheers

 

I can't believe this just posted today!

I performed this operation yesterday with my Ohlins, pretty much just as bowhawk described. Complete removal of the exhaust was needed, to allow the shock reservoir up through the swingarm as you install the shock. I think the biggest pain in the butt of the entire operation was threading the lower/interior nut of the rear exhaust flange when putting everything back together - but then I have big, clumsy hands. Don't forget to Loctite the shock mounting bolts, too

It did take me...ummm...slightly more than an hour... Keep in mind that I was figuring it out as I went along, though.

 

would agree and also say leave much more than an hour. you can at times remove less than the full exhaust if you like cussing and pushing and pulling. but all said and done easier to remove it and get the shock on. Measure the free length eye to eye of the stock shock and set the penske same or if you are going for 5mm increase ride height etc. I find putting long bolts through the shock eye the easiest way to accurately measure the length.

 

I think I've installed 6 or 7 shocks on superbling while exploring alternative models. I never removed the pipes. I use a rear wheel stand and a set of heavy duty ratchet tie downs hung from garage rafters that attached to the subframes' cross brace.

Clean and lube all suspension bearings.

 

did you ever find any good alternatives ?

tim

 

There is no need to remove the exhaust. Mine is out right now and like Super said, it can be dropped with everything still in place. I'll see if I can get a pic snapped fro you. As for holding the bike up, You can use the "hang from the rafters" method or right now mine is sitting on two jack stands with a bar running right in front of the passenger pegs (the jack stands are on a pair of milk crates for extra height) or there is always the "redneck" method (not the best way but it does work even though I expect the normal comments of how dangerous it is and all that but I've done it with no problem, just exercise a little care) of taking a 2x4 and cutting a "U" shaped notch in one end that will allow the subframe to fit into and then placing it between the subframe (towards the front before it starts to angle up) and the swingarm.
Also it is easier to remove the shock with the exhaust in place if you also remove all the linkage with it. While you have it out it is always good to relube all the bearings in the linkage so you might as well pull it anyways. As always YMMV.

 

A cbr954 penske was damn good but the used VTR ohlins was easily the best. For the record I also tried: cbr900rr fox (very used), next an R6, R1, and ducati 900 all with a heavier spring and spacers, and a very, very low mileage stocker.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot about removing the linkage as that makes getting to the allen head bolt possible.

 

+1 on removing the linkage for access rather than the exhaust.
+1 on lubing the linkage needle bearings. Honda was not too generous with grease when they put the bike together. I used moly grease and replaced the seals. I probably couldn't have gotten by without replacing the seals.
The

 

The stock shock is 345 mm. eye to eye if you want to use that as a starting point for adjusting ride height.
I wrapped my Penske in rags before installing it. It helped keep it pretty. Put the reservoir in the space where the linkage was and rotate the shock as you lpush it up. Sort of a pirouette.
Another way of supporting the bike is to use saw horses and a metal fence post for a chain link fence. The post I use is about 2" in diameter. Maybe it's bigger but I haven't measured it recently. I slid an old piece of ABS pipe over the fence post to protect the subframe. I put the post in front of the passenger peg brackets, rested one end on the saw horse, levered the bike up and rested the end I was lifting the bike with on the other saw horse. There are a lot of ways to raise the bike. It doesn't matter which one you use as long as it's stable. Be ready to improvise.
Breaking nuts and bolts loose before you raise the bike is a good idea. I usually think of it after I've raised the bike.