Hi, I'm a new (week old) Hawk/Storm owner and have been reading a lot on both the UK Firestorm and these Superhawk forums about changing sprocket sizes.

I've decided just to make a minor change and have ordered a new rear sprocket with 43 teeth (2 more than stock) and should have it in the next 3 days.

My only concern is how easy is it going to be to get the old sprocket off?

I have a Paddock Stand so I can get the rear wheel off the ground, but unsure just how much I'm going to have to take apart to actually get the old sprocket off and the new one installed.

I'm sure I've read I have to remove the rear brake calipur before I start.

Could anyone offer some basic advice, re what I have to undo, and any things to look out for when I do it?

Many thanks.

 

Welcome and here's some info here. You should really replace everything when doing this or the sprocket could wear quickly depending on how new things are but good luck.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=2057

 

It's hard to take the rear sprocket off, especially if it's been on for awhile. Some WD40 will work well to loosen up the bolts. I use a breaker bar to get the bolts off, and loc-tite and a torque wrench to put the bolts back on.

It also helps to have a friend to hold the wheel steady while you remove the sprocket bolts.

 

Use a hardy piece of wood like a 2x4 or a large pvc pipe through the rear wheel spoke and under the swingarm. Next roll the bike backwards to lock things up. Use a heavy duty wrench or breaker bar on the nuts. It would be a good idea to have someone on hand to steady or brace the bike too.

 

Use a 6 point socket or box end wrench.. No junk dime store tools, or else you'll be rounding off the fasteners. An air impact would be best.. But I suppose that is not an option for all.. :LOL: As another has said.. With limited help, tools, exsperance,, breaking loose each sprocket bolt with the wheel on the bike, might be a help.. just do not push the bike over.

 

Thanks for all the excellent advice

I'm going to follow all what you say, and (fingers crossed) I'll get it done ok.

The Sprocket and Chain were all changed not that long ago (this year I think) so there should not be much wear to damage the new rear I'm putting on.

Also, I'm putting on exactly the same make/spec of sprocket that I'm taking off, just that it's got 2 more teeth, so I'm hoping everything will run together nice.

I've got a couple of Torque Wrenches, a nice biggun which will easy get to the 108Nm for the sprocket nuts.

As the sprocket was changed not that long ago, I'm hoping that will mean it won't be THAT solid, but I shall try loosening them BEFORE going any further.

I think my Spindle may be the wrong way round, as the Spindle nut is on the LEFT side of the bike (the same side as the rear sprocket)

Dunno if that matters though?

Re the Socket.... I have some top quality Sockets (Imperial and Metric) but they are virtually all the type that have gut multiple notches inside, and not just hexagonal holes.

 

Damn, I've been doing mine wrong for a couple years!

BTW, the rear wheel spindle slides thru the caliper mount to hold the Rear Brake Caliper on; it also rests on a keyway kind of arrangement on the swingarm. Really easy... no problem there.

 

Thanks.

I've actually no idea which side the spindle nut should be on, but I seem tor recall I read somewhere that it's on the right hand side (brake side) wheras mine is on the sprocket side.

Perhaps someone put it the other way round in the past, or perhaps it does not matter which way it is???

I'll have a look at the manual and see if I can suss out which way it should officially be.

(Unless anyone here knows for sure)

 

Just to update....

Have put a socket on my rear sprocket nuts, and they undid with just some force and a 12" long bar.

So, not that tight

Prob gonna torque them back up a lot tighter than they are now.

 

The "spindle" would be the part of the axle that does not come off, right? That goes on the same side as the sprocket. The nut that screws into the axle goes on the brake side.

Don't forget to loc-tite the sprocket bolts.

 

loc-tite smoc-tite live dangerously!

 

No way! That's like not using Astro Lube when you...

wait, what was this thread about?

I say Loc-Tite everything that you don't want to lose. I lost my Gilles shifter rod on the freeway a few days ago because a nut came loose.

Replacement parts are a BITCH to find.

 

Funny, I had mine dangling on the track, Couldn't figure out why it wouldn't shift. The track is no place to be looking down at your shifter going 45 mph.

 

IIRC, the sprocket nuts are self locking. NO lock tight is required or desired according to the Honda Service Manual.

 

The sprocket bolts are listed as 80 ftlb of tq... thats a lot for the fastener. Use a med strength thread locker, and at or near the recomended tq, all will be well.

 

NO THREAD LOCK IS REQUIRED (per the manual).

 

Understand, but the manual is not the be all, end all.
One.. Anaerobic thread locker seals the threads and keep corrosion away. Two, the sprocket fasteners are self locking,,, and reply upon a mechanical interference to perform that locking function.. Every time that OEM fastener is used, the locking capability is lessened. How many time?? who knows, it's not a design spec. How many times, before the locking capability is lessoned to a point the fastener may vibrate loose? Who knows.. it's not a design spec.
Using the correct anaerobic thread locker is never a bad thing.. and as we do not know how or when this OEM fastener is at or past it's useful self locking life span. Thread locker is completely appropriate for this application. IMHO

 

I understand that threadlock may help you sleep at night.

Here's the facts:

These fasteners use locking tabs which press against the threads to prevent movement. After 3 sprocket changes and 40000 miles I still cannot loosen them by hand. There are only TWO other fasteners on the entire bike that have torque values higher than these five nuts: the flywheel bolt and the clutch center lock nut, at 94 and 116 ft-lb, respectively. The way the wheel rotates, the rotational force tends to tighten the nuts. I have not had any corrosion, either general or galvanic, on these fasteners.

Personal opinion: I think that if loosening was a problem, Honda engineers would have considered a reverse threaded fastener or applied threadlock from the factory in this application.

I will agree to disagree with you on this one.

 

I suppose it's stupid question, but I wonder why these (relativly) small bolts are done up so tight?

I know there's a lot of power going thru the sprocket, but nonetheless, with 5 (or is it 6 of them) I can't see them spinning off at anywhere near 108Nm.

Not as if there is any actual twisting force going onto them as such.

 

Something I've learned in Naval nuclear power in the last 14 years:

There's no such thing as a stupid question. There are only inquisitive idiots! LOL

All kidding aside, there's a lot of torque and vibration that goes through that sprocket for many miles and over long periods of time. There are no hardened splines like the countershaft sprocket has so I guess those 5 studs and nuts (which I personally don't think are really that small) are what Honda thinks will work. I believe 'em since I've not had any problems on any of my Hondas, and they all seem to use the same 5 studs and nuts.

 

I swap mine out a lot going from street to track gearing and have never had an issue, (no loc-tite either).

 

I use loc-tite for whatever small amount of peace of mind it offers. After instances in the past of parts vibrating loose (such as the shift rod from earlier), I am a firm believer in using loc-tite on parts I do not want to come loose. And one thing I always do (now) is to check my mechanic's work.

Ok, I'm done beating the dead horse now.