You fine crew, Is there any information on this forum "ON or who will port and polish a set of cylinder heads?

 

Search really is your friend...... Sorry Tweety, you're getting slow these days.....lol

But as I happen to have just happened to have looked up the info myself..... here is what you want to do.....

"For the street, the port work should focus on a few things. Do not make major changes to the port area, work on blending the bowls, slight flattening of the port floor around the short radius of each port, matching the carb manifold spigots, and to a good 3 angle valve job. The valve seats should be moved to the outer perimeter of the valves without going all the way to the edge. Total seat contact width should be about 50% of the overall face area."

As found here:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...0&postcount=19

As to where you have it done that is up to you to find.

 

Thank you for the info, I have a couple of spare sets, Yet these stock heads/ low milage are not that easy to come by. Any suggestion or recommendation on a shop, or member that would be more experienced in the operation ?

 

these heads have been ported, polished exhaust port, polished combustion chamber, full radius valve job w/undercut, milled .010" off of the head surface, used with stock valves and Kibblewhite racing springs and moriwaki cams

 

While those do look nice, it's not really what you want for a street motor. They should flow well at high RPM (but I do have to wonder why you didn't also install the over sized valves with that much work) I would be concerned with low RPM stumble as you might have issues with fuel pooling do to disturbing the boundary layer.

The specs listed in my previous post are straight from Moriwaki and work very well unless you are building a full race motor. In that case you have no worries about the lower RPM range. But as always YMMV.

 

works well from 1500 all the way through my redline of 10,000

 

That's the first time I've seen a dimpled intake port. I have heard about it and that it flows very well.

Oversized valves are a good idea. And I'm in the 3-angle valve job camp. I like to have some surface area for the valve face contact - more for the exhaust valves, becuase the valve spends most of it's time closed and the valve contact with the seat is critical for keeping the valves cool.

Otherwise, it looks very good.

 

I've held off on the oversize valves for the next stage