Can't say I've ever noticed.

Obviously I lack the requisite skill and aggressiveness to judge.

(BTW, my SH was used for some years in my coaching at track school. Totally stock standard, though all settings were carefully done to suit me, and the engine was rebuilt by my shop before the bike turned a wheel under its own power. Turned in as quickly as any machine that was ever on track with it.)

 

Pete,

No need for sarcasm, non of us are kids mate, we all grownups and just trying to help each other, we may just speak a bit different terminology languish, but now I have no doubt you do understand what we talking about.
If anything, maybe you can give some additional tips for the rest of us, how about that mate?

Cheers

 

I've pondered a reply long and hard over the last few weeks.

Several times in my racing career I've been a development rider, most recently with a Post-Classic hot-rodded TZ750 Yamaha, and I'm well used to working out and describing handling and chassis dynamics.

The problem is that the real answer to the perceived problem on this thread lies in rider skills, not machine geometry, but I fear a full - or even this brief - answer will provoke howls of disagreement.

Learning what Keith Code describes as "Quick Steer" will be a hell of a lot more effective than trying to change the machine.

However, there is another possibility. A lot of people over-tyre such low-powered bikes as the VTR1000, in a misguided belief that they'll get more grip (when the VTR can touch down regardless of what rubber's on it), so steering does become more difficult than it should be.

FWIW, the best tyres on mine ever were the standard Bridgestones it came out of the box with - best mileage, best performance.

 

Scared of the replies you'll get from this forum?

 

OK now I am the one who needs an explanation.

How did the bike run at the track school "Totally stock standard" but it had "all settings (were)carefully done to suit" you and it "never turned a wheel under its own power" before the " engine was rebuilt by(your) shop"?

I am no expert but I run stock size tires and my 'hawk feels more responsive since I put the same kind of shim on it. Now that could well be because I am not an expert like yourself ( maybe it's me that's lazy) but if I enjoy my bike more who cares?

Point being many owners make the same choice, come to the same conclusion, and report the same satisfaction for this mod.

 

All parts in and on the bike when I bought it. Thus all standard.

Then...took it all apart, carefully reassembled, and such things as the suspension and carburettors carefully set to suit me and my riding style. The small differences are what your dealer won't have the time to do for you, and truth be told most trained mechanics are most unused to doing. However, for most of my race bikes, these fine differences are what win or lose races; and for my road bikes, what make them as enjoyable for me as possible. I like maximising the utility of stock bikes.

(Note: yes, of course I "get" modifying machines for better performance and appearance - but unless you're clear on what you're doing and why, it's pretty pointless. Not one of my race bikes, for example, has remained standard as supplied by its manufacturer - apart from Production racers in the strictest Production formulas, but I haven't raced in any of those formulas for many years now.)

Sure, the VTR has nowhere near the same range of suspension settings as more sophisticated machines do, but in my observation few riders can set those properly, either. (Not least because they have no clear understanding of what their riding style is, and what it needs to serve it.

Even our dedicated race shop, when we had it, needed a lot of experimentation with most of our team riders because we had to watch what they did as well as listen to what they said so as to do their chassis settings. 2 of those riders became national champions.)

Everyone will detect a difference when they have changed something on their machine; just like the guys who detect more power after some home tuning, and don't believe our shop dyno recording lower power after than before - happens all the time...

 

So why do I like the standard VTR so much?

Simple - it's nearly the perfect machine for my riding on my country's roads.

I have the Varadero for 2-up touring, and ditto for that purpose on our country's roads.

 

I believe what was said about tyres, by the way I have the rear shim as well.

However as I recently had to do a rather long road trip and needed a new set of tyres I bought a cheap set of Dunlop D209 tyres and fitted them .


Imagine my surprise when the bike became a pleasure to ride after the Michelins that I had on it that we're the latest and greatest but cost twice as much.


Smoother ride, better handling and much more comfortable and all from a set of outdated superseded hoops that were half price.


That brings me to the conclusion that current tyres exceed the boundaries from our frames and suspension so now I have another set waiting to go on when needed, and when they are worn out I will look for more tyres that aren't made for current bikes.


Everyone is different, and we all ride different.


I say go with what works for you!!!

 

So, on my ZX-7Rs everyone used to go with a 180 rear tire instead of the stock 190, to get quicker turn in.... Anyone ever gone with a 170 rear tire on a SuperHawk for the same reason???

James

 

Wow, wacky thread. Pjay, you dont think the hawk benefits from the shim mod?

I think it helps greatly. Its a common way to quicken turn in on street and racebikes. But its a very basic lots of bang for the buck cheap mod.

And not sure what tires the hawk comes with in Z land but the ones on mines were abhorrent. (although I didnt buy the bike new, I believe they were dunlops)'

 

The stock tires in Canada were Dunlop 204's.