Need jetting advice.
#2
I can just tell you what I did, on the advice of another Forum member.
I installed 48 pilot/slow jets and adjusted the pilot screws 2.5 turns out. I had shimmed the needles .020" before installing my slip-ons.
It runs great with the Yosh street baffles in or out. Most of my riding is from sea level to 3000 feet. I was actually too rich above 2500 feet with my initial pilot screw adjustment of 2.75 out. It wouldn't idle at that alitiude, so I went back to 2.5 turns out. I've been riding it that way for about 6 months now.
I installed 48 pilot/slow jets and adjusted the pilot screws 2.5 turns out. I had shimmed the needles .020" before installing my slip-ons.
It runs great with the Yosh street baffles in or out. Most of my riding is from sea level to 3000 feet. I was actually too rich above 2500 feet with my initial pilot screw adjustment of 2.75 out. It wouldn't idle at that alitiude, so I went back to 2.5 turns out. I've been riding it that way for about 6 months now.
#3
I can just tell you what I did, on the advice of another Forum member.
I installed 48 pilot/slow jets and adjusted the pilot screws 2.5 turns out. I had shimmed the needles .020" before installing my slip-ons.
It runs great with the Yosh street baffles in or out. Most of my riding is from sea level to 3000 feet. I was actually too rich above 2500 feet with my initial pilot screw adjustment of 2.75 out. It wouldn't idle at that alitiude, so I went back to 2.5 turns out. I've been riding it that way for about 6 months now.
I installed 48 pilot/slow jets and adjusted the pilot screws 2.5 turns out. I had shimmed the needles .020" before installing my slip-ons.
It runs great with the Yosh street baffles in or out. Most of my riding is from sea level to 3000 feet. I was actually too rich above 2500 feet with my initial pilot screw adjustment of 2.75 out. It wouldn't idle at that alitiude, so I went back to 2.5 turns out. I've been riding it that way for about 6 months now.
I have Erion cans and pretty much that exact setup, runs great! No need to change out mains, just shim the needles. The pilots (#48) are $4.00
#6
Alright guys, I'm gonna jump in here because I need a bit of direction. I'm in a couple classes right now, the tougher one being Gen Mait and the one that's really seems to be coming along as a waste of time with a lady that doesn't know how to answer a question without saying, "Yeeeaaahhhh," before just about every word, driving me nuts. The other, more advanced class is fun, it's six hours on Sat's and we're starting to see some extended lab times.
Currently, the airbox and carbs are out of the bike. I had taken the carbs out for a thorough cleaning and in the process discovered that the diaphragm in the rear carb needs to be replaced as it doesn't seat in the grove of the carb. The instructor says there are two options, one kind of glue it in there with gasket sealer and get the top on and tightened down quickly and hope that it holds up to my beating the **** out of it, or I can replace the part, which is what I decided to do. That said, the part being about $80, if any of you or a good portion of you with expertise specific to the hawk think the first option is ok to go with then I may decide to go that route.
The other thing going on it the needle on the slide was dropped on the ground and bent. I've been having a bit of a hard time getting the professor to spend a decent amount of time helping me and was a bit uncomfortable taking the carbs apart further than I did. I'm reconsidering that and think in a week when we get back to the class that I'll go ahead and take them back completely apart. This time however, I'm going to NOT have class mates helping me. I'd like to take them completely apart and even get into the jets for cleaning.
With that in mind, the bent needle and the needed diaphragm, is there a kit I can buy that would jet the bike differently (better) and at the same time replace the bent needle and the diaphragm? Or would that be the rebuild kit which is non-existent for our bikes?
Currently, the airbox and carbs are out of the bike. I had taken the carbs out for a thorough cleaning and in the process discovered that the diaphragm in the rear carb needs to be replaced as it doesn't seat in the grove of the carb. The instructor says there are two options, one kind of glue it in there with gasket sealer and get the top on and tightened down quickly and hope that it holds up to my beating the **** out of it, or I can replace the part, which is what I decided to do. That said, the part being about $80, if any of you or a good portion of you with expertise specific to the hawk think the first option is ok to go with then I may decide to go that route.
The other thing going on it the needle on the slide was dropped on the ground and bent. I've been having a bit of a hard time getting the professor to spend a decent amount of time helping me and was a bit uncomfortable taking the carbs apart further than I did. I'm reconsidering that and think in a week when we get back to the class that I'll go ahead and take them back completely apart. This time however, I'm going to NOT have class mates helping me. I'd like to take them completely apart and even get into the jets for cleaning.
With that in mind, the bent needle and the needed diaphragm, is there a kit I can buy that would jet the bike differently (better) and at the same time replace the bent needle and the diaphragm? Or would that be the rebuild kit which is non-existent for our bikes?
#7
The carbs are very simple, remove the 3 screws holding the float bowl and lift it off, nothing will fall out. Just do one carb at a time, since the jets are different sizes on the front and rear carbs.
Reinstalling the diaphragms is the hardest part. To make it easy, prop the diaphragm piston 1/2 way open.
Reinstalling the diaphragms is the hardest part. To make it easy, prop the diaphragm piston 1/2 way open.
#8
I can just tell you what I did, on the advice of another Forum member.
I installed 48 pilot/slow jets and adjusted the pilot screws 2.5 turns out. I had shimmed the needles .020" before installing my slip-ons.
It runs great with the Yosh street baffles in or out. Most of my riding is from sea level to 3000 feet. I was actually too rich above 2500 feet with my initial pilot screw adjustment of 2.75 out. It wouldn't idle at that alitiude, so I went back to 2.5 turns out. I've been riding it that way for about 6 months now.
I installed 48 pilot/slow jets and adjusted the pilot screws 2.5 turns out. I had shimmed the needles .020" before installing my slip-ons.
It runs great with the Yosh street baffles in or out. Most of my riding is from sea level to 3000 feet. I was actually too rich above 2500 feet with my initial pilot screw adjustment of 2.75 out. It wouldn't idle at that alitiude, so I went back to 2.5 turns out. I've been riding it that way for about 6 months now.
I was told that a ket kit was the way to go. I messed around, had the carbs off multiple times and finally ended up with almost stock jets (DJ version), #48 pilot jets, and I'm sure I was at the number 2 groove on the needles. Basically the same thing you get by shimming the stock needles. I only changed the pilots to stop the decel popping.
But I was doing it on my own, solving one problem at a time. I learned a lot - or did I...?
#9
There's a lot to be said about trial and error. At least with each try the carbs come off easier.
And thanks to Mike for the final solution.
And thanks to Mike for the final solution.
Last edited by VTRsurfer; 02-18-2011 at 05:59 PM.
#11
The carbs are very simple, remove the 3 screws holding the float bowl and lift it off, nothing will fall out. Just do one carb at a time, since the jets are different sizes on the front and rear carbs.
Reinstalling the diaphragms is the hardest part. To make it easy, prop the diaphragm piston 1/2 way open.
Reinstalling the diaphragms is the hardest part. To make it easy, prop the diaphragm piston 1/2 way open.
The Carbs are simple enough, i suppose. I'm just learning about them however. I've had them all the way apart execpt I can't get the needle out of the slide and don't know what it means when you say shim the jets. Then when you all say turn it out 2.5 turns are you talking about the actual pilot jet or the pilot jet screw. It's confusing because they both turn, no?
So the question remains, do I get a jet kit to replace the bent slide needle in order to have a better selection of jets available to me as I put them back together, or do I replace the diaphragm and the slide needle with oem parts. I understand the diaphragm only comes in oem btw. I'm basically just wondering if when I replace the slide needle and I go aftermarket then the jet kit comes with that, but from hat everyone here says it seems the better way to go is to avoid the jet kit and adjust the the oem jets with shims.
That brings me to a second question, how do you shim a jet? Thanks guuys, I'm a newb and I'm learning, but it's a process indeed!
pps - Included a jet kit picture. It seems to include my stupidly bent needle jet, some new springs and various jets. I would only need to acquire the diaphragm additionally. However, I'm sure a needle alone and a diaphragm would be a bit cheaper, the 67 for the kit is actually cheaper than the diaphragm which comes in at 78....Anyone know where I can find that part cheaper?
Last edited by SuperBlink; 02-20-2011 at 08:52 AM. Reason: added shit.
#12
The Carbs are simple enough, i suppose. I'm just learning about them however. I've had them all the way apart execpt I can't get the needle out of the slide and don't know what it means when you say shim the jets. Then when you all say turn it out 2.5 turns are you talking about the actual pilot jet or the pilot jet screw. It's confusing because they both turn, no?
So I'll try to help you out again. First that on of the screws that you removed from the large black cap that holds the slide in. The you screw it into the needle holder like this:
Then grab the screw and pull. Easy peisy..... there is a o-ring on the needle holder so it may be hard to get it loose but it will come out.
Then you don't shim the jets, you shim the needles. which looks like this:
You have the needle, then you place a shim (or washer) on the needle and then you reinstall it into the slide.
When talking about turn, what is meant is the pilot adjustment screw (which has a "D" shaped head on the bottom of the carb.
So the question remains, do I get a jet kit to replace the bent slide needle in order to have a better selection of jets available to me as I put them back together, or do I replace the diaphragm and the slide needle with oem parts. I understand the diaphragm only comes in oem btw. I'm basically just wondering if when I replace the slide needle and I go aftermarket then the jet kit comes with that, but from hat everyone here says it seems the better way to go is to avoid the jet kit and adjust the the oem jets with shims.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=24769
pps - Included a jet kit picture. It seems to include my stupidly bent needle jet, some new springs and various jets. I would only need to acquire the diaphragm additionally. However, I'm sure a needle alone and a diaphragm would be a bit cheaper, the 67 for the kit is actually cheaper than the diaphragm which comes in at 78....Anyone know where I can find that part cheaper?
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