MOBIL1 - Synthetic V-Twin Motorcycle Oil - Synthetic - 4-Stroke Oil - Oils - Parts - Cycle Gear

Mobil 1™ V-Twin 20W-50 synthetic motorcycle oil is formulated to help offer outstanding protection in 4-cycle, V-Twin type engines, particularly those which are air cooled and tend to run hotter than other types of engines.

I just think the viscosity is too high. I live in San Francisco so heat is really scarce here... has anyone tried this oil out? Pros/Cons? Need to change the oil soon, if not what do u recommend; synthetic only and what viscosity?
While we're at it whats the best oil filter you recommend for superhawk?

 

Friend of mine basically said its mobil 1 trying to make oil like redline, but im wondering if it holds up to redline standards or falls short. Trying to run a comparison...

 

oh geeze.....

 

And ,

The Cat amongst the Pidgeons!

I use Diesel oil!

Here we go again!

Sorry, couldn't help myself.

 

I run their 4T and have for years. The stuff you are referring to is for air cooled bikes I do believe. I personally wouldn't go that thick but to each his own.

 

Then there's the people who go as far as to use oil engineered for deisel trucks!!

 

I love a good oil thread. 20w-50 is, according to the service manual, fine down to 40*F. My bike seems to shift better during the first 1/3 of an oil change interval. Then gets more and more clunky (technical term) after that. This has been with Rotella Triple 15W-40. I switched to Rotella T5 15W-40 and found a small but noticeable improvement in the length of time before it felt like the viscosity was breaking down (clunky). Now trying M1 4T. It is better by another small amount, but this time right from the start of the change. Mileage will tell if it is worth it (to me) for the large price increase over Rotella to continue it's use. Some here have reported the same shifting results, so I don't think that it's a placebo effect. What are the best tires for the SH?

 

10-40 Mobil 1 4T is what I run my SH. I agree with xeris the bike seems to shift better with Mobil 1 oil. I'm not sure the 20-50 is what you should be running in your SH.
According to the Mobil 1 website the 20-50 is recommended for V-Twin air cooled engines that run hotter like for instance Harley Davidsons. See link below.
I suppose there will be those that will disagree but that's just my opinion.




https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/m...motorcycle-oil

 

....Oh boy.

 

Whoopee an Earl thread!!

Unless I lived in a Very hot climate - I'd stick with 10/40.

And Mobil 1 es bueno

Moto Earl for Moto's not Diesel engines......

 

There is an oil filter thread here somewhere that listed the favored types. Purolators and Mobil 1s were the tops I think. But I can count on the crew here to correct me if my recall is faulty.

 

Awesome feedback, thanxs guys, didnt notice that type of oil was for air cooled bikes. On my original 1997 superhawk i used 10-40 mobil 1 and it ran great. Never used redline though but my buddy lives for it and he runs 20-50, but imo it just doesnt sound right, too thick...
I did do a search on here for oil but i always ran into threads with whinny bitches instead of technical info. Maybe need to go farther back on search....
As for oil filters, im stuck. Read an awesome thread on here on cross refrence oil filters, but he actually said (honda dealer filter not recommended; wtf?) Thinking of going with mopar, its what i use in my corvette, but again my buddy lives by dealer filters.. so im asking you guys what has best filter fillament for cleaning oil? Im not planning on changing my oil frequently, most likely 4500-5000 miles. Thanxs again

 

Everyone here probably has a different opinion, so (like oil choice) there is no "best". I use the Fram offered @ Wal-Mart, mainly because they have the best price on the 4T so it's convenient.

 

I suppose a filter is a filter but I like the K&N filters. They're certainly more expensive but I'm brand sensitive plus I like using a regular 17mm socket to put it on and take it off. After losing my job June 2nd due to layoff after 29 years come next spring I may be price sensitive so unless I find a new job it's good to know there are options.

 

Right on Wolv., im just trying to get everyones feedback and personal preferance and filter experience... there is pretty much no right answer because everyone has a personal "best" preferance. Ive always liked fram for my f-150, good filter n cost effective, and u can find em anywhere.

 

Man, I just cant believe the price of those oils. It hurts my feelings. I run rotella synthetic and have for years. Like $24 for the whole oil change and its synthetic.

 

K&N filters for me.

Have used them for years and no probs!

Buy them from the States as they are better priced than here in Oz.

 

Here ya go. Not sure why the moto filters are listed as "none recomended". May have something to do with price compared to auto filter on the same size/config. IIRC this list came from somewhere else on the web and the person doing the test cut open the filters and examined the construction. There is some good info about filter @ Bob is the oil guy. I had been using NAPA Gold 1365, but have switched to the 1356 to get the larger capacity. Doing so required the removal of the chin faring. These Oil Filters have 20 x 1.5mm threads, 14 psi by-pass valve, anti-drain back valve, 2.3" O.D. gasket 2.5" to 3.5" long. If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters. Motorcycle Filters. None are recommended. * AC Delco PF2135 * AMSOil SMF103 * Carquest 85358 * FRAM PH6017A * Honda 15410-MCJ-000 * K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal. * NAPA Gold 1358 * Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator. * STP SMO 17 * WIX 51358 Recommended filters. All have superior filtering. About 2.5 inches long. * Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6. * Mobil M1-108, about $12. Made by Champion. * Bosch 3300, about $6. Made by Champion. About 3.25 inches long. * Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6. * Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10. Made by Champion. * Bosch 3323, about $6. Made By Champion. * WalMart SuperTech ST7317, about $2. Made by Champion. Automobile Filters, about 2.5 inches long. * AC Delco PF1237 * Baldwin B1400 * Firestone TF2876 * Hastings LF113 * NAPA Gold 1365 * Purolator L14612 * STP S-02876 * WalMart SuperTech ST6607 * WIX 51365 Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long. * AC Delco PF-2057 * Auto Pro 2356 * Autopride CF240AP * Baldwin B1402 * Carquest 85356 * Carquest Red B4620 * Casite CF240 * Castrol 7317 * Champion Labs Ph2867 * Defense Filters Dl7317 * Deutsch D-370 * Federated Filters LF240F * Fram Double Guard DG7317 * Fram PH7317 * Fram Tough Guard TG7317 * Fram Xtra Guard XG7317 * Group 7 V4610 * Group 7 V4620 * Hastings LF240 * Mighty M4612 * Motorcraft Long Life FL-821 * Napa FIL1356 * Napa Gold 1356 * Parts Plus PH2867 * Pennzoil PZ-109 * Penske 7317 * Powerflo SL14610 * Powerflo SL14620 * Pro Gauge PGO-4620 * Pro Tec 164 * Promotive PH4610 * Pronto PO3593A * Purolator L14610 * Service Champ OF-4622 * Shell SH48 * Shell SH529 * Stp S-02867. * Valvoline VO50 * Warner PH2867 * Wix 51356

 

Sorry for the run on, but I can't seem to fix it.

 

A filter is not just a filter. Years worth of research on oil analysis forums clearly show Fram as one of the poorest filtering filters available. Tops in the testing for filtration are Purolator Pure One and Mobil 1, and OEMs.

As long as the full synthetic oil adheres to the standards needed from Honda for the wet clutch, then pick your favorite color and it will work well (red, purple, etc).

There is such a thing as bad filters, and bad oil. BUT, once you get into the good filter and good oil categories, then the difference is minute.

The absolute best way to figure out what to do with one specific engine is to do oil analysis and track mileage and which filter/oil was used. This is exactly why i run Mobil 1 in my car/van with Purolator Pure One filters for 10k mile intervals, because the oil analysis proved the oil and filter can do it without breaking down.

Bobistheoildropserver is the site/forum i use for oil analysis/filter testing/discussion.

James

 

Ya know, I went there years ago doing diligent research. But answer me this, it is a public forum, like this one. How do you know the person giving you answers is trustworthy? I am a bit reserved when it comes to issues like these. One manufacturer can do some pretty good damage convincing people the way that benefits them. You can't believe everything you read on the internet and public forums are full of b.s. (I'm not talking about your used oil analysis reports).
I just surfed over there and looked at a few oil filter threads. They are all just forum users replying to threads.

 

You have to read the tests done by the site. They open filters, look at filtration, bypass, materials, etc.

I don't take opinions for things like this. I read the tests, examine the pictoral evidence, and read the oil analysis (which as you said, doesn't lie).


James

 

Which has a main sponsor that pays the bills... Penzoil. Hmmm. I don't doubt there is trustworthy info to be had, but I also question everything.

 

Penzoil is not like there, at least it wasn't when i was researching years ago.

I'm kinda done, i'm tired of talking about oil.

James

 

I run extra virgin olive oil for years now and it seems the bike love it

 

Maybe Moterex, regardless, shifting was slick, like it is early on with Mobil 1 after a change, and never degraded. Is about twice the cost of Mobile 1.