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Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I'm making a run of our shifters. I do not intend to stock these, so if you would like one now would be the time! Price will be $105 each in either clear anodize or raw aluminum. Just like always, the shifters include precision roller bearing pivot and new heim joint for the lever side of the linkage.
Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I'm making a run of our shifters. I do not intend to stock these, so if you would like one now would be the time! Price will be $105 each in either clear anodize or raw aluminum. Just like always, the shifters include precision roller bearing pivot and new heim joint for the lever side of the linkage.
Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I'm making a run of our shifters. I do not intend to stock these, so if you would like one now would be the time! Price will be $105 each in either clear anodize or raw aluminum. Just like always, the shifters include precision roller bearing pivot and new heim joint for the lever side of the linkage.
Great shifter, I highly recommend.
Works amazing, had it for a while now, still like brand new, thanks Jaimie
Same here.
I can add that I crash tested mine and while the toe piece sheared off cleanly, no other damaged occurred. Jamie (thank you) supplied me with a replacement, It bolted on and all is new again.
Get one while you can!
Just to add a pic for those that have not seen it before elsewhere
That's a really old version! I made some significant changes after that first run. Since then the levers got a new style and ball bearing pivot. I couldn't find a photograph, so hopefully this screenshot will suffice.
Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I'm making a run of our shifters. I do not intend to stock these, so if you would like one now would be the time! Price will be $105 each in either clear anodize or raw aluminum. Just like always, the shifters include precision roller bearing pivot and new heim joint for the lever side of the linkage.
That's a really old version! I made some significant changes after that first run. Since then the levers got a new style and ball bearing pivot. I couldn't find a photograph, so hopefully this screenshot will suffice.
Whoops I loaded the wrong photo, that was my first one from you, I bought another when you changed the design.
What are the odds of getting it made out of stainless?
Ohh, interesting but that would take redoing the code for sure for the different materiel,,,umm and likely different tool selection as well.(Im not a CNC guy, only dabble on others machines so I could be way off)
If I may ask..Why? And of course there is no wrong answer...If its just "Because" good enough. The Anodizing he uses is holding up really well.. My first one purchased many years ago still looks great.
If you wanting the ultra shiny look, get one non anodized and polish it, then clear coat
.
Last edited by E.Marquez; Feb 4, 2019 at 09:43 AM.
Well, I think stainless cleans up well but my main idea, and I may be wrong, is that if I can make parts out of stainless rather than aluminum, especially the bits that connect to appendages, I'm thinking that the transmission of vibration may reduced or the frequencies that transmit may be different and possibly lead to a slightly more comfortable ride. Top triple would be cool, fork brace, shifter and linkage...stuff like that maybe, just a thought.
From: South of Live Free or Die & North of Family Guy
Originally Posted by ACE VenTRa
Well, I think stainless cleans up well but my main idea, and I may be wrong, is that if I can make parts out of stainless rather than aluminum, especially the bits that connect to appendages, I'm thinking that the transmission of vibration may reduced or the frequencies that transmit may be different and possibly lead to a slightly more comfortable ride. Top triple would be cool, fork brace, shifter and linkage...stuff like that maybe, just a thought.
I don't know man... seems like harder to do work on stainless, also heavier... as for cleaning, I don't bother much at all other than periodic wipe :-)
Meh, weight is marginal. Stainless is a cinch if you polish it before install, after that it's...well...stainless. Again, regarding weight, I think a little extra weight in certain areas might be a good thing.
Well, I think stainless cleans up well but my main idea, and I may be wrong, is that if I can make parts out of stainless rather than aluminum, especially the bits that connect to appendages, I'm thinking that the transmission of vibration may reduced or the frequencies that transmit may be different and possibly lead to a slightly more comfortable ride. Top triple would be cool, fork brace, shifter and linkage...stuff like that maybe, just a thought.
I'm just curious what vibrations you think are transmitted through the shift lever?
Jamie, Received the shifter and it looks and works great! The combination of the ball bearing pivot, the linkage rod in the longer throw position, altered position/ratio of the engine end shift arm coupled with my Factory Pro Shift Star and Detent arm/spring my SH shifts amazingly! The 1st to 2nd "Clunk" is gone, even clutchless. Thank you. Your products and services are exemplary.
Jamie, Received the shifter and it looks and works great! The combination of the ball bearing pivot, the linkage rod in the longer throw position, altered position/ratio of the engine end shift arm coupled with my Factory Pro Shift Star and Detent arm/spring my SH shifts amazingly! The 1st to 2nd "Clunk" is gone, even clutchless. Thank you. Your products and services are exemplary.
Thanks Cary! It's really a shame I had to discontinue them because it does make a big difference.
I still have a couple left from this run if anyone is interested. As the years go by it becomes less and less likely I'll do another special run like this, so they possibly are the last ones.
Jamie, Do you have any that aren't anodized? If so, I might have to get one for my "Obsolete Treasure" box. I've put a bunch of "unobtanium" performance parts aside for future use. All I need for my collection/use is a HRC ECU!
Jamie, Do you have any that aren't anodized? If so, I might have to get one for my "Obsolete Treasure" box. I've put a bunch of "unobtanium" performance parts aside for future use. All I need for my collection/use is a HRC ECU!
Cary you know they are clear anodized yes? not colorized?
Thanks Erik. I do know that. I'm interested in doing some aesthetic work on one. i.e.; Radiused edges, polishing Etc. Anodizing just makes it more work.
Thanks Erik. I do know that. I'm interested in doing some aesthetic work on one. i.e.; Radiused edges, polishing Etc. Anodizing just makes it more work.
What does the lower of the two holes below the pivot point provide; just raises the toe peg without using the linkage adjuster? Or does it also provide more mechanical advantage via the leverage ratio angle?
I'm not Jamie, but it changes the leverage ratio thereby shortening the shifter travel while very slightly increasing the effort needed. Try it, you might like it. If the effort isn't objectionable. try moving your actual shift arm (pictured) one tooth clockwise. This has the same effect to a lesser amount. Together, they make for very short shifting. Couple these changes with a FP Shift Star and Detent Kit and you have the next best thing to a Quick Shifter!
I've found that, other than the infamous 1st to 2nd shift, clutchless shifting is buttery smooth, both up and down.
What does the lower of the two holes below the pivot point provide; just raises the toe peg without using the linkage adjuster? Or does it also provide more mechanical advantage via the leverage ratio angle?
These two holes are the lever ratio. The upper hole (as shown in the picture) is stock, and the lower hole provides a shorter throw of the lever. You can try out both to see which one you like better. Feel free to shoot me an email if you need anything else!
I have the shift linkage 1 tooth CCW rather CW, as I thought that shortened the throw. I'll try first rotating CW 1 tooth from OEM (punch mark on SS centered on linkage gap), then lower the other end of the linkage to bottom hole of the lever. Now, IMO my VTR shifts very nicely as it is (even with 110k miles on original OEM clutch) and I have had the FP shift kit (star & roller detent arm) as well as a lightened flywheel from Erik for years that I've never gotten around to installing but I'll try anyway.
