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Just got my Hawk, Looking for some advice!

Old 08-02-2010, 11:25 AM
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Just got my Hawk, Looking for some advice!

Hey there guys!
Just picked up my Hawk a couple of days ago, Shes a clean 1998 w/35000 kms on the clock and came with a few added extras(CRG levers, stainless yosh slipons, zero gravity screen) for the low price of $2900cdn!. Always had screamer 4cyls before(600rr's), so it nice to have some torque now. I already have new sprockets & chain ordered(15-43), but was wondering about a few other things...
1-this bike is SO soft in the front end, holy dive batman. I'm 185lbs, and looking at the racetech springs, .90kg or .95 kg?(racetech's site won't work) and should I go with the valves or a heavier oil? I may swap to a 1000rr front end over the winter depending on what the minister of finance(wife) has to say.
2-Those yoshi cans are huge. Anyone cut them down a touch, say 3-4 inches or so? If so, how did they sound and how'd it run...re-jet?
3-Weight...she's a portly girl, whats the best way to shed some pounds without going streetfighter?
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:22 PM
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Welcome to the forum!

1: Properly resprung, valved, and braced (fork brace) the front end can be quite good. But often a swap is easier (it's what I did).

2: They can be cut down, I don't have those cans, but others have done this with just about every can out there. If it is running well now you shouldn't need a rejet just from that. (the SH is more intake sensitive than exhaust sensitive, so a K&N or similar filter would require a rejet, exhaust probably not)

3: The biggest weight loss is the stock exhaust, once that is done (and you have yosh cans) there isn't a whole lot that is easily removed. But what you can do to quicken the steering (make it feel lighter) is to put in a shim (5-10mm) under the rear shock to raise the back up a bit and that will help a lot, and raising the forks in triples a bit (lowering the front) helps too, but be careful about doing too much of that for clearance reasons.

Finally these bikes have only two reliability issues to deal with: The R/R (voltage regulator) and CCTs (cam chain tensioners). Replace the R/R with a non honda unit (either aftermarket or do the popular yamaha swap). And with the CCTs either go to Manual and then never worry again, or replace with new OEM ones every 12k or so (valve check intervals).
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Old 08-02-2010, 02:38 PM
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...what he said...and welcome to the circus.
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:46 PM
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welcome scooter. Let the cruising begin
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:23 PM
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Aye, read Lazn's sig to figure out how to improve the bike. Some folks claim to have gotten their bikes down to around 420lbs +/- without going nakid, but this involves a lot of cash or a lot of knowledge, maybe both. It seems like EVERYONE puts CBR1000RR or RC51 front ends on the bike and that cures a lot of that issue. I'm tempted to say it's not the size of the can that matters... But anyhow, you can chop most about any can. That's a hard mod to measure because you don't know until you're done exactly what you've accomplished.

Welcome!
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:02 AM
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Welcome to the forum. I replaced my stock springs with .90kg springs. Race Techs site recommended .872kg for my weight (180lbs) in sport riding mode. If your bike has any mods that have reduced the weight of the bike significantly that number will vary. Springs and Galfer rotors are mods I have made. Replacing the springs was a nice upgrade! The difference was night and day.
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