Hi All,

After searching for this topic, I didn't come up with much. I know GPIs usually aren't rocket science, but if you're electricity dumb like me, they can take a little bit of effort. I recently fitted on to my bike (and my wife's bike) and this thread is to walk through the process of installation. This specific installation will be modified just a tad to be reversible/removable if needed.

First, gear position indicators (GPIs) need a few things usually to work. They need to know your engine speed (tachometer), wheel speed (speedometer), crank position, and they need a power source. The GPI uses this information to guess at which gear you are in. This equation changes a little from bike to bike, but mostly the same formula. This is where I would recommend finding a model-specific GPI. There are models out there that have the wires without the plugs for "universal" applications, but that makes the install much harder.

I purchased this off-brand one from Amazon. It came with the exact same instructions as the previous generation (non-touch screen) Healtech unit. Those instructions (GPX-H01) can be found here. The unit is mostly plug and play. It comes with a three-prong socket and a stray wire that you need to connect to tachometer to capture engine speed. The three-prong socket will take care of power for this model, so one less wire to worry about.

Tools/Equipment Needed:

• your key
• needle nose pliers (large)
• T-tap splice with male connector and heatshrink - optional
• 8mm socket, extension, and socket wrench - optional
• rear paddock stand - optional
• utility knife - optional
• allen and screwdriver for taking rear fairing off - optional

Instructions:

1. Pop off your rear seat. If you want to get really fancy, unbolt the top of your gas tank (8mm socket).
   
   
2. There is a clear protector under the front of the seat that houses multiple plugs together. There are two 3-prong connectors in here- one is green and the other is white. You want the white one. Unplug the connectors and plug in the GPI in-between.
   
   
3. You now have one stray wire. If you look at the instructions, it wants you to tap in to the yellow wire with green stripe (all other models in table under section 2 step 2). If you check your VTR wiring diagram, this is one of the wires that goes from your tach to your ICM.
   1. Optional Suggestion #1: Throw away the splice that comes in the kit (the type that pinches both wires). It takes up extra room and is non-reversible. Instead, get a T-Tap wire connector and some heat shrink. Crimp and heatshrink the male connector on to the remaining GPI wire.
      
   2. Optional Suggestion #2: To get to the tach, you need to pull the front fairing off. While that isn't very difficult to do on Superhawks, there isn't much room to work with behind the dash, and the wire you need isn't easy to get to. Unpopular opinion- leave the front fairing on and go to the opposite end of the bike.
      
4. Right in front of the taillight there is a black rectangular box with wires coming out of the side (left side of bike). While Honda did a really tidy job with the wiring, there is more exposed wire back here to tap into. If you have big hands (like me) this might be easier to do with the rear fairing off.
   
   
5. Find the yellow wire with the green stripe. Ask a friend if you're colorblind (also like me). The yellow with blue stripe and yellow with black stripe both look similar, so make sure you have the green. Also- make sure its a solid green stripe and not the short and stubby green hashes! Once you have identified the wire, use your T-Tap on an exposed section of wire. T-Taps can be tricky- best to clamp them on the wire quickly and firmly to pierce the sheath and get to the wire itself. A large needle-nose pliers is helpful in this situation.
   
   
6. Everything from here is following the instructions. Turn the key on and you should see a fast countdown. Spin the rear tire (bike still off but key on) and you'll see a "spinning" notification.
   
7. At this point, fire the bike up and start programming. It will tell you which gear it wants you in. Hold the revs between 3k-4k and when you see an "n" for next, go up a gear. Once you run through all 6 gears, it should flash at you and be working! This can be done riding the bike or with the rear tire off the ground on a stand.
   
8. If everything works, find a spot to mount the GPI. For those of you with handlebar conversions, a handlebar mount comes in the package. The steering stem works if it is open otherwise I mounted to the left of the speedo. Cut the sticky foam to 12mm width for the side profile of the GPI.
   
   
9. Zip tie stray/extra wires down, put your seat back on, and go for a ride! I'd recommend hiding the wire behind the left side of the frame in the same clip that is used for the other lines running through that area.
   
   

This specific model isn't great in direct sunlight, but I've had no problems with it performance-wise.

That's it! Easy! I definitely recommend going to the back of the bike for the yellow wire instead of behind the tach. The GPI wire is tight going to the front, but you have less distance to travel and everything is under the seat if you go to the back.

Hope this helps out and takes the guessing out of it!

 

Nice! Thanks for the write-up. Now I'm going to dig mine up and see if it'll work with the Hawk. I have no idea the brand but now I have motivation.

 

Cool. I was given one of these years ago & it’s still in my spare parts bin. Had this feature on a previous bike & liked it
😎