Fork Swap, everyone's doin' it - SuperHawk Forum


Modifications - Performance Discuss aftermarket and DIY performance modifications

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Old 07-19-2017, 08:22 AM   #1
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Fork Swap, everyone's doin' it

It's been a long time coming and still a bit more to go (bars I have ain't going to cut it). Mock up looks good so far. Front axle and spacers from an RC51 work with the CBR front wheel (think it was '04-05 wheel, '06-07 CBR might be the same). Went with the CBR wheel because it's three spoke and matches the stock rear close enough for now. Also finding an SP2 front wheel is not worth, to me, the time and money.
According to a chart EBC has for rotor dimensions the offset between the RC rotors and the CBR rotors is .25mm different (CBR is more). I don't know if that means the distance across the hub between the mounting surfaces for the carrier are different or what. The CBR wheel measured 117.18mm between carriers mounting points. Anyone have an RC wheel they can measure??
I have calipers mounted for test purposes. Stock VTR, no pads and there is a slight bit of interference. I suspect that it's because the rotors are larger and rubbing on the calipers. I haven't spent the time to know where. I would have mocked up with the calipers I'm going to use (954) but they are on the bike currently. The rotors "look" centered on the calipers, but my eye is not calibrated to .25mm (.0098"). Will it even make a difference if it is off that amount?
Fork Swap, everyone's doin' it-img_0714.jpg
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:55 AM   #2
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All the cool kids are doing it.
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Old 07-19-2017, 03:33 PM   #3
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Subbed. Maybe someday I'll be cool.
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Old 07-27-2017, 05:38 PM   #4
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Finally got serious about doing the fork swap and went at it this afternoon. Old forks off, old triple off, all ***** bearings races in. Started on the relocation brackets for the radiators. Looks like the 954 bars are going to work at least temporarily.
Waiting on some new rad hoses and thermostat. When those come in I can put the carbs back on and button all that up.
Still have to swap the tire from the old rim to the new rim. Hopefully all the control lines will be long enough.
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Old 07-27-2017, 07:14 PM   #5
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Wow I'm not the worlds best wrench but any fork swap I've done have not seemed to require any fiddling with the carbs or other fuel stuff.

Also on the cbr1000rr swap I didn't need different coolant hoses.
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Old 07-28-2017, 06:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 View Post
Wow I'm not the worlds best wrench but any fork swap I've done have not seemed to require any fiddling with the carbs or other fuel stuff.

Also on the cbr1000rr swap I didn't need different coolant hoses.
I like to take the scenic route. Or take a whole bunch of stuff apart and leave it for a couple of months and then see if I remember how everything goes back together.
Really I decided that all the rubber in the cooling system is now 20 years old, and I had to pull the carbs to replace the over flow bottle, I would replace everything while in there.
One of the side benefits of this swap is the stock SH forks, wheel and brakes freed up for another project. It's an '81 Goldwing that was given to me. Needs lots of love. The SH front end should make an easy fix for the very tired Wing. Don't plan on keeping it when done, so the less I spend the better.
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:31 AM   #7
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Who knew how many variables there are in a frankenstein fork swap. Probably everyone but me.
Because I went with a CBR1k front wheel, I have a difference in axle diameters. RC axle 22mm, 1k 25mm. Not only are the ID of the bearings different the width is also different, and in the wrong direction. RC 47x22x14, 1k 47x25x12. So just trim the spacers to fit? well the seals with the 22mm ID are 1mm wider, at 8mm. Now we have the seal proud of the hub by 3mm. I don't like it.
The simple solution would be to get bearings in 47x22x12. Well they don't exist, that I've found anyway. Did find seals in the same width as the 1k seals, 7mm. So now down to 2mm proud of the hub.
Experimented with one of the old seals removed from the wheel. Put it to the bench grinder and removed 1mm of width. If I make a jig I think I can do evenly enough to work. Maybe I can 2mm off and not f'it up.
While I wait for more parts I can install all the new hoses and thermostat that arrived yesterday.
Oh yeah, 954 clip-ons will not work above the triple, at least with brake/clutch remote reservoirs. Though I have a picture of 954 bars/integrated reservoirs, I sill wonder how it was made to work. Now I have new aftermarket clip-ons to find.
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Old 08-02-2017, 09:01 AM   #8
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This is why its best to just go with a complete front end.

If you get any of the spacing wrong it could end in catastrophic failure from brake overheating or bad bearing wear (or both).

For me it just isn't worth the hassle now or later when parts wear out.
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Old 08-02-2017, 07:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 View Post
This is why its best to just go with a complete front end.

If you get any of the spacing wrong it could end in catastrophic failure from brake overheating or bad bearing wear (or both).

For me it just isn't worth the hassle now or later when parts wear out.
You are so right, but way too late for me now.
Thanks for cheering me up.
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Old 08-02-2017, 09:22 PM   #10
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See, no one listens to me around here. Til its too late......
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Old 08-03-2017, 02:22 AM   #11
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I went with the USD mod advice from Mikstr (Micky)

The thing that I liked was the fact that the original front axle and wheel could be used with a new set of spacers.

Much less hassle for me.

Stick with it , you will love the difference ! A new bike at a fraction of the cost.

It will be worth it in the end.
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:12 AM   #12
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My springs & fluid are cerca 1997.

What is the simplest fork swap, with good performance gain?
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Old 08-14-2017, 01:32 PM   #13
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My springs & fluid are cerca 1997.

What is the simplest fork swap, with good performance gain?
Personally I don't have a problem with the VTR fork mechanically, but they certainly are a lot better with some decent springs and damper parts. The stock fork is undersprung and has harsh compression damping.

I'd suggest you contact Daugherty Motorsports and get a cartridge and spring kit, or do the same with Racetech parts. Daugherty will supply a customised set-up for your weight, whereas you might have to work that out for yourself with RT.
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:08 AM   #14
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Personally I don't have a problem with the VTR fork mechanically, but they certainly are a lot better with some decent springs and damper parts. The stock fork is undersprung and has harsh compression damping.

I'd suggest you contact Daugherty Motorsports and get a cartridge and spring kit, or do the same with Racetech parts. Daugherty will supply a customised set-up for your weight, whereas you might have to work that out for yourself with RT.
Good info, thanks. I had RaceTech in 1998, so I'll check out that option. I am going to get the modded F4i rear shock from Daugherty.

Last edited by Kelevra; 08-21-2017 at 11:11 AM.
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