All the time? I think everyone can lock even the stock system.

I wonder if your pads are glazed?

 

Or air in the lines?

 

OK, here's a basic rundown:

Larger MC: Flows more fluid but requires harder push. Reduces lever travel probably reducing precision.

SS Lines: Increases feel and precision, particularly when replacing older lines. Doesn't increase power.

Softer Pads: Increases braking friction and reduces stopping distance. Adds heat due to more effective braking. May increase fade. Shorter pad life.

Race Pads: Work at higher heat but require higher heat to work well. Reduces fade at racing temps. Short pad life when used properly. Not usually suitable for street use. Hard on rotors.

Higher spec calipers: Improves braking when hot. Reduces fade. Larger pistions require matched larger M/C

Wave roters: Said to cool better for better stopping. More wear on pads. Better pad cleaning. Lighter.

Bigger rotors: More braking leverage for cooler operation, less fade, and better control. Requires replacement/relocation of calipers as needed.

Bleeding/Fluid Change: reduces sponginess, increases brake feel and precision. If lines have air bubbles or wet fluid, it will reduce braking force.

 

Do you mean locking front wheel at high speeds on dry surface ????

EBC HH Pads aren't glassed, i've checked and used sand paper to be sure.
calipers have been cleaned up, pistons are working well without effort.
No air in the lines (the lever is always firm), no sponginess (fluid is almost new)
I've tested Race pads (AP racing), more attack than stock but no power when cool so i switch to EBC HH pads.

Looks like i'd need bigger rotors...

I used to ride a Aprilia RSV 1000 with 320 mm brembo disks/ brembo 4 pistons calipers, Brembo M3 pads, and radial beringer MC : it works great on the track (and the road). Definetely more power without effort ....

 

Yea, but I have to admit that I haven't tested it under exactly those circumstances. Can you say "lowside?"