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EBC-Barnett-OEM?

Old 08-02-2014, 02:35 PM
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EBC-Barnett-OEM?

Smoked the clutch today and I am asking what you think of these 3 types of clutch kits.


Fiber and Steel plates along with a spring set, gasket is what I am looking to replace.


Thanks in advance!


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Old 08-02-2014, 04:06 PM
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OEM is my preference as I've had issues with aftermarket stuff in QAQC of plate thickness..which plays havoc in some clutch systems (whilst others are more tolerant)

Specific to the VTR I've only tried OEM so I don't know if aftermarket causes issues.
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:34 PM
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I too prefer OEM plates and fibers. Springs, I'd go Barnett as I've done in the past (had a set on my Hawk GT prior to the VTR).
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:02 PM
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Barnett

Thanks guys!


I was checking out prices at oemparts-junction.com and they want $12.63 per fiber plate and $7.00 per steel plate and $3.27 per spring.


$113.67 + $63.00 +$16.35 = $193.02 not including a gasket which would run around $15.00.


So we are around $208.00 not including taxes and shipping.


I found a Barnett kit on ebay that includes friction and steel plates, springs and a gasket plus free shipping for $190.00


Generally I would go with OEM since Hondas parts are first class but there a little expensive on this clutch rebuild project so I think I will purchase the Barnett kit.


Barnett has been around forever and I have had good success with their kits on my dirt bikes, that's unless someone chimes in here stating their junk I will go with the Barnett kit.


One thing that I always go OEM with is Honda's disc brake pads!


They are for sure the best and seem to last forever without squeaks or squeals.


When I have the clutch cover off is there anything that I should check like a metal oil pump screen or filter?


Thanks!


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Old 08-03-2014, 09:55 PM
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Are you sure your metal plates are out of spec? You may not need to replace them.
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Old 08-03-2014, 10:14 PM
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I installed a barnett clutch kit on my 4th gen VFR. Decided to give it a try since I got it for $125 to my door. So far happy with it. If I only needed fibers I would have gone with oem. But needed the steels too since original were showing hairline cracks. Original set was at 59K miles
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:40 PM
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Does anybody happen to know the spring rate of the stock clutch springs? I'd test it myself if I had one layin' around.
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Old 08-04-2014, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rick View Post
I installed a barnett clutch kit on my 4th gen VFR. Decided to give it a try since I got it for $125 to my door. So far happy with it. If I only needed fibers I would have gone with oem. But needed the steels too since original were showing hairline cracks. Original set was at 59K miles
Did you installed it by your self? How was it what tools are needed in this process? I'm thinking of doing mine soon.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SIRR1 View Post
Thanks guys!


I was checking out prices at oemparts-junction.com and they want $12.63 per fiber plate and $7.00 per steel plate and $3.27 per spring.


$113.67 + $63.00 +$16.35 = $193.02 not including a gasket which would run around $15.00.


So we are around $208.00 not including taxes and shipping.
Check Partzilla

Part Name Price Quantity Total
Honda 22201-MBB-000 DISK, CL FRICTION
Each $10.75
Set $107.50
Honda 22321-MT3-000 PLATE, CLUTCH
Each $5.93
Set $53.37
Honda 22401-MBB-000 SPRING, CLUTCH
Each $2.90
Set $14.50
Subtotal = $175.37
PLUS

11394-MBT-000 GASKET, R. COVER
Each $14.05

$189.42 total

Last edited by E.Marquez; 08-04-2014 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:31 PM
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Are you sure its burnt/ unuseable? Why do you think this? Did you dis-assemble it and check it?

I have seen a lot of clutch swaps that were not needed.

Also, the vtr shares plates with another bike, I think the 900rr. For some reason you can get them cheaper by buying that clutch pack and buying like one extra plate. I posted the info on here somewhere.

Cant explain why the same plates are cheaper for the older bike.

If you have enuff friction material you can rearrange the plates, ball hone the steel plates, reassemble and be good for a long time.

BTW, this bike has weird grabbiness if you rev too high on takeoff. That doesnt indicate a beat clutch.
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bird-rider View Post
Did you installed it by your self? How was it what tools are needed in this process? I'm thinking of doing mine soon.
Yes. Pretty straight forward job. Just follow the manual and use a torque wrench ( in the correct range) for installation.

Hardest part is scraping off the old gasket and cleaning the mating surface for clutch cover. Speaking of which, get a new clutch cover gasket before you start the job, so you don't have to wait a few days for it.
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Old 08-05-2014, 07:02 AM
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BTW, the clutch can be done w/o draining oil, you just need to tip the bike & support it.

(it saves the hassle). I use jack stands/ 2x4s to hold it up. At the racetrack I use a pile of old tires but if your neighbor is throwing away a couch..........
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 View Post
Are you sure its burnt/ unuseable? Why do you think this? Did you dis-assemble it and check it?

I have seen a lot of clutch swaps that were not needed.

Also, the vtr shares plates with another bike, I think the 900rr. For some reason you can get them cheaper by buying that clutch pack and buying like one extra plate. I posted the info on here somewhere.

Cant explain why the same plates are cheaper for the older bike.

If you have enuff friction material you can rearrange the plates, ball hone the steel plates, reassemble and be good for a long time.

BTW, this bike has weird grabbiness if you rev too high on takeoff. That doesnt indicate a beat clutch.
+1 Grabbing is a VTR trait not a good launcher too much low down torque

Does a lighter flywheel make launches more or less controllable?

Is 90k mi good clutch mileage? Knock on plastic...

I have had to replace the OEM battery, once...

The OEM steering head bearings and races were perfect at 60k I felt guilt changing them though they were a bit dry but I had the allsballs...
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Old 08-05-2014, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rick View Post
Yes. Pretty straight forward job. Just follow the manual and use a torque wrench ( in the correct range) for installation.

Hardest part is scraping off the old gasket and cleaning the mating surface for clutch cover. Speaking of which, get a new clutch cover gasket before you start the job, so you don't have to wait a few days for it.
Thanks for the straight forward advise...
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Old 02-03-2015, 04:11 PM
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Stock plates. And be prepared to file down any grooves in the basket. These bikes have some age on them and some have been wheelie machines.
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Old 02-03-2015, 06:43 PM
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I know this thread is old, but my experience is this:

If metal plates are blue, then they've been hot, and should definitely be checked with a caliper.

I've used Barnett fibers before on my 96 zx-7r and it wanted to walk away when i pulled the clutch in while in gear. I didnt like the way it didnt engage properly.

I do believe that heavier springs are good if you're launching hard a lot, and you won't feel much difference with our hydraulic clutches...

I personally think OEM is the best when it comes to clutches (on a mostly stock bike), especially for only $20-30 more.

Thanks!
James

Last edited by thedeatons; 02-03-2015 at 06:46 PM.
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