Hi folks,

here's the report of the jobs on my old wreck.
The bike was in bad conditions, witnessing very poor maintenance and one fall; the owner told about just a small tip-over but the signs on fairings, and engine covers let me thing it was something a bit more severe. Nothing serious, but hey... a dent on the tank, footpeg bracket bent down, shift lever broken... it's not just an innocent tip-over 😅



The final drive was crap, grips at the handlebars was worn and ominously sticky (I don't wanna know anything more &#128517
Also, the owner cut out the tail to install a leaner plate holder and led indicators, but the result has been pretty hacky. And the electrical job below the seat is even worst 💀:


Anyway, this bike won me (inexplicably 😅 ), and I decided to start a new project bike on it.
The leitmotif of the project will reflect the essence of this bike (that definitely won me): simplicity.
I'm going to simplify it at the utmost, removing any redundance and not essential stuff.

At first, I started disassembling the wreck:



One of the first job to do, needless to say, it's the PAIR removal.
I removed all the stuff and plugged the connection:


But this bike was in need of something more serious than cosmetic trifles.
Timing chain tensioners were about to fail, especially on front cylinder (that's pretty common on VTR), so i removed anything into the "V" to easily access the tensioners and replace them; as obvious, I set the timing, first:





Since I needed to remove the cooling system to access the front tensioner, I took the occasion to a small upgrade, so I replaced the hoses with silicone units; also, the connections to the carburetors heating lines have been removed


...and the connections of the thermostat housing gave been plugged


Once fulfilled this task, I passed to the radiators before reassembpling the cooling system, since I decided to replace EVERY not stressed screw with ergal component.


The cooling system has been reinstalled:



In this phase I took the occasion to reorganize the breathing/bleeding lines in a tidy way, since the OEM hoses are loooong and twisted into the gut of the bike:


Prior to close the work on the engine, I made the coil conversion by using coilsticks from a Kawasaki Z750
Here's a picture with the old system compared with the new.


To finalize, a set of iridium sparks and the engine is done.

After this, it was the turn of the final drive.
Unfortunately I've not been able to find the Supersprox sprocket I was looking for, so I bitterly fell back on a standard JT unit (Z+2)


I compensated the lack of the supersporx sprocket with a ergal nut for the rear axle, and aluminium wheel spacers



And just to show how autistic I am, I even dismantled the chain adjusters to restore and clean them, bringing them to mint conditions 😅


I removed the original rear brake reservoir (just below the seat, on the right side) by installing a smaller one directly connected to the pump; in this way I removed the reservoir itself and the long connection hose, but above all I could move the R/R at its place, where it can get more air and (hopefully) work better


I installed a set of homemade footpeg adapters, to raise them up without touching the brackets (but I have some plan about it &#128526


End part 1

 

Part 2

The bike came with a Leovince exhaust cans set. I have the OEM also, but I do not have the carburetors jets, so I decided to keep the Leovince's on.
I raised up the mufflers, and the original brackets have been removed
So far, I made some ROUGH and UGLY supports.
They are very bad, but they're cheap and work fine; they will be replaced with dedicated components by my design. I'm just waiting for some salaries to come in order to stabilize the budget... 😅


At the frontend, the forks have been serviced, then I put titanium bolts for the front subframe (that's in steel; I'm going to build a new one in aluminium)


and a forkbrace by Dr. Ergal design.
The plate in the picture is just a prototype to test the size; the final one is still on the way


New grips on the handlebars, ergal screws everywhere and that's it. The bike is simple and essential, so no need for further operations; I just cut out the locking pins to spread out the bars


By following my purpose, I searched for any non stressed screw to be replaced with ergal units.
And I mean EVERY screw...



I don't have all the pictures, but those are the screws I removed and replaced with ergal

All the remaining bolts are structural, so I could replace them with titanium, just in case.
Maybe in future...
I know it's just a stupid thing but... hey, I have a reputation to defend :biggrin

In conclusion (so far &#128513 I installed a set of mirrors with led indicators:


And here it is!


Being a projectbike, the modification will NEVER end 😁
The next steps are:
Simplified pinion cover
Li-Ion Battery
Rear and front subframe in aluminium
Muffler brackets
Lighter brake rotors
Adjustable ignition phonic wheel
Lighter wheels (but I'm afraid that this item would cost me a divorce 🙄&#128518

For all of what above ?m more than open to any suggestion from you, who surely know any tip and trick on this bike


For those who are wondering if I forgot the lower cowl, well no: I simply removed it because I like the most this way. You remember? Simplicity... 😉

 

Some beautiful pieces of engineering came into my garage, today 😎




The biggest is the forkbrace plate I was waiting for, machined by my good friend Mario running "Torneria Baderna", a billet machining workshop in northern Italy
The smallest is a shaft holder; you surely know it: it's designed to embrace the gear selector shaft; this reduces its cantilever and make the gear selection more precise, also preventing the oil seal from damaging since the shaft is less prone to bend.



And the forkbrace plate finally in place.



The previously installed plate was fine anyway, but this one is keeping my name on it, so I'll be surely faster 😎 😁

 

Welcome!! Great first post and it looks like you are on your way to a great relationship with your VTR. Keep us post as there are some who still visit here and follow along.

 

Thanks!
This bike won me. Hope to find a lot of inspirations and tips, here :-)

 

Do you plan to keep the front fairings/plastics on the bike or will it become something custom?

 

To be honest, I really like the VTR fairings. I like them so much (the front, at least), that I was planning to install them even into my VFR, making a sort of V4 Firestorm
So.. well, no: the bike will remains a Firestorm in its clothes.
Honestly, I strongly dislike the VTR's turned into some approximate streetfighters. They seem to me unnatural.
In my mind, VTR has to be like it is; only... well... a bit better

 

Enjoyed this write up... Ride safe, Bsafe

 

250806 UPDATE
Today I had the chance to make a ride to test the last modification: the long inlet snorkel at front cylinder.
I bought on ebay a second-hand complete airbox. The idea was to have 2 long snorkel and 2 shorts, so that I may change them when riding on road or on track.
Now I installed 2 long snorkels.


I must be honest: I was expecting an improvement but I never thought an improvement like this.
The engine is even smoother than before, and (predictably) even more torquey at low revs. Tight hairpins in 3rd gear at 2000rpm are not an issue, and the engine push you off the corner smoothly but strongly.
But just a few over, around 4000rpm, the engine puts some muscles I really didn't expect, becoming VERY torquey and fast. The range 4000-6000 rpm is definitely ADDICTIVE, now

Very very happy, so far. I'm going to check if this set is good or if some specifically designed snorkels could get even better; it's more than evident that the Storm has great breathing capabilities, and responds effectively to this kind of mods

 

Going to try this to see what results I get.

 

I never toughed it worked but... it does!!
I 3D printed the muffler hangers with a PA12 carbonfiber enhanced filament.
It was just a trial, and I expect them to fail in a few miles.
Au contraire, they're still there, resisting perfectly despite they're as light as a paper sheet


And starting from this success, I 3D printed something else


Winter has came, so I can't test them yet. But they look great

 

You knew this was coming. Send me a pair. I would be happy to test them for you.
The work you've done so far is just amazing.

 

Thanks, Xeris
Glad you enjoy it

I can send you the CAD file, if you can 3D print them by your own.

 

Her Doctor

Northern Italy? Where abouts?

I commend you on your efforts to date, I've done many of the things you have over the last 27 years and hundred and eleven thousand miles on my fastest red ninety eight

A few comments on what you've done, and suggestions on what you haven't, yet.

Your fork brace is impressive, as arr your shift shaft brace and can hangers.

Back in the day, I just went with a Superbrace, black, of course, it was special order then but no longer available.

https://superbrace.com/pages/honda

Many moons ago I also installed the long intake funnels but haven't noticed that big of an improvement

Jetting the VTR can be tricky and don't fall into some of the suggestions like a epoxying closed one of the lyft holes in the slides and going too large on the pilot jets.

One of the reasons I asked if you were in northern Italy, does it get cold enough there that the carb heated water system could be important until it warms up? They're a bitch to clean and parts are no longer available but i've kept mine. I have six sets of carbs that I swap out every few years and two ninety 8s, 1 is for sale. I also have two spare engines and enough parts to build another bike including a frame.

The stick coil mod is also a very good idea.

However you didn't quite go enough when you removed the pair system. You should remove the little covers in each valve cover, clean disassemble the reed valves, flip over the reed stop, seal the reeds down with HT silicone ( including the heads of the little screws that secure the reed stops, and butoon it up after plugging the hose nipples also with HT silicone; little ugly rubber caps then not required.

I also added a second horn by just splicing in AY splitter to each horn and found a relay is not required.If you use the fiamm low tone pancake horn.

You also did a smart thing by relocating the VRR, but you didn't replace it with a mosfet unit. Replacing the OEM wiring with a heavier gauge wire direct to the battery an adding a inline fuse and waterproof connectors ( the thin oem red wire to the battery can be sealed or used as a power wire to an auxiliary circuit) is highly recommended.

Also, feeding the headlight direct directly from the battery, with individual relays for the high and low beams, and just using the power wires to the headlight for triggering the relays. This gives you much better anchorage to the headlight , which I replaced witha H4 LED "bulb" from Cyclops.

I also replaced every single incondescent bulb with an LED bulb and added a low voltage draw flasher relay for the turn signals.

I also have a unobtainum Ventura - MCA headlight lens protector.

I also installed another pair of OEM front turn signals in the rear AND ADDED A POWER WIRE FOR THE THREE WIRE BULB TO HAVE REAR RUNNING LIGHTS

Another smart modification is putting an in-lne fuel filter in each fuel tine to the carbs drom the tank. I also put in an inline check valve and P-trap in the fuel tank breather line which prevents "vapor lock" when riding in heavy rain when the end of the hose down by the chin fairing is submerged in water. I recommend keeping the chin fairing to protect the engine and oil filter from road debris, and adding a front fender extender.

I believe I saw that the front brake lines were replaced with stainless steel- teflon lined hoses but it appears the rear brake line and clutch line have not been replaced, which for any other reason than due to their age is a good idea.

On the topic of brakes, have you replaced the front pads with HH+? For the rear pads, I actually prefer low friction items on the VTR...

I also installed three axis adjustable and taller clip-ons and mirror extenders.

My pilot pegs are MFW Varios which permit 360° adjustment; I lowered and moved mine forward for more leg room along with my taller, cushier and better fitting custom saddle.

I have period correct Two Brothers aluminum C2 oval low mount slip-ons but cut out the restriction in the collector pipe that blocks flow to the right can.

I've also added several new electrical circuits for auxiliary brake and side position lighting.

I also run a 2 tooth larger rear sprocket, and a Scott Oiler

I'm sure I've forgotten to mention a dozen + other "improvements" I've made to my sweet old ninety eight, which they'll have to bury me with!

https://ventura-mca.com/collections/...irestorm-98-06

MFW Vario Adjustable Footpegs Review | Rider Magazine https://share.google/Rv4DoBzFXGfDtr3RI

Oh, and while all the Ergel fasteners are also very impressive, I found it a lot cheaper and healthier (if not easier) to just to lose pounds off my bod, which at my age, is really, really tough!

 

Hi Skokie,

many thanks for your suggestions.
The reg/rectifier mod is in my list; repositioning has been a cost-zero mod to reduce the damages coming from its primal installation but yes, it's not the solution.
I live in a cold area, indeed, 100km south to Brenner Pass.
But I don't use my VTR on winter (I have another bike for that use) as I don't like to mess the bike with snow, salt and the risk of falling down. I use the bike only in spring and summer, and the heating line is not necessary at all.
Also, the "leitmotif" I'm going to follow in setting up this bike is "simplicity", reducing it to the very essential. In fact, the definitive PAIR caps are on their way: I'll remove OEM caps, valves and every useless stuff for sure. It's just a matter of time: I cannot improve all in once all the mods I have in mind, or my wife will kill me

EDIT: I almost forgot to say that the ergal fasteners are obviously negligible in term of weight saving, indeed, but my nickname comes with a reputation to defend

 

I am a renaissance engineer, and my whole essence is predicated on the KISS principle,
less is more, $ per pound (kg),the path of least resistance, etc.

So why spend time and money on for example aftermarket PAIR valve caps when the OEM items are a known entity?

You also have not elaborated on your performance mods including suspension, brake & clutch fluid flush, transmission tuning, engine oil and filter selection, sprocket ratios, clutch plate refresh and shift kit, tires, coolant flush, fueling, flywheel lightening, crash survival hardware, tires valve stems lighting and conspicuity schemes, etc

Function must come before form.

Little things matter, as simple as clean brake rotors and HH+ brake pads can be the difference between life and death.

Re-read my suggestions...

Good luck!!!

PS attached is a not up todate list of my mods on my fastest red 98...the have been a few significant additions sincee 22

 

You're definitely right.
That's my bad: I forgot to mention that I refurbished the fork with new oil, bushings and seals) and the rear shock refurbishment is on the way, since I'm going to send it to a specialist close to Misano Adriatico, very close to the circuit.
Also, the very first thing I did is a replacement of the front brake pump with a unit coming from a CBR900RR (refurbished with new seal and cuff); of course, I installed braided lines. In fact, I just put a picture of the work on the rear brake only, and I forgot to mention the rest.
In the moment I had the engine open for timing set and MCCT installation, I checked the valves freeplay, serviced oil and filters and checked clutch disks thickness (and, of course, flushed clutch slave oil circuit)
I neglected this part because is so obvious that I reputed it was insignificant to the story, since I was taking it for granted by readers of this forum: the functionality check/recovery is the very first thing I do on a bike when it enters my garage:

 

Nice shop! And quite the little collection of fast two wheeled steeds, including the pedal powered kind.

Try not to be too organized and methodical, as a tight regimine stifles creativity and inhibits the problem solving process.

A neat desk is a sign of a sick mind...

But we may be kindred spirits, though I've likely been at it a bit longer than you!

Again, keep at it, but there's no such thing as perfect, just close enough for the girls we go out with...


Bret Cave in Winter mode, which is heated and air conditioned. It's a long but narrow shop that's integral to a garage structure. Unfortunately, there is only room for two bikes that are readily accessible with my RD400C under a work bench specially designed to accommodate it while its engine is being refreshed in my basement shop. I have a storage unit for my 2 other bikes not far away... :-(
A large air compressor (in the adjacent garage area) powers the hydraulic blke lift table, and 2 sets of Pit Bull work stands along with a small hydraulic rolling bike lift handle other duties, with a lift gantry for shock servicing. I'm a tooloholic, with my basement shop crammed with machine tools, metal forming equipment, and welders...

 

AHAHAHAHAHAH!!!
That's true! That's definitely true; and of course I am

 

Gentlemen, here I am with some upgrade!

I wanted to make one post only resuming the entire job, but you know... time available for staying in in garage is always little, so I'm progressing slowly and intermittently. So I thought it's better to set a post step by step, to show any update

Well, this weekend I focused on 2 things, mainly: wheels and shock abs.
I found a good occasion from a friend of mine, who made a bad accident on his bike destroying it; like a vulture , I came offering to buy his unit, a fantastic Matris M46HD.
So here it is...


I must confess, since the OEM unit is very oversprung, this Matris looks a bit "soft". Surely it's just an impression; BTW, I'll set it properly on spring.

Then, I focused on wheels.
Last years I purchased a set of second hand wheels coming from a Hornet. The main reason is purely aesthetic: I dislike the bulky design of the OEM spokes so I wanted something leaner. Also, I don't find the 6 spokes classic Honda rims fitting fine on VTR; I don't know why... simply they don't resonate me the way they did on my XX. So I decided to go to a leaner 3 spokes rims set. And here it is, coming from ebay


Hornet and former CBR600F rims fit VTR, both for disk and sprocket holder

The only modification needed is a transplant of the bearings, since the wheel pins is bigger that the Hornet's. 10 minutes job.

The rear wheel is 550gr lighter than the stock


Also, the new disk is almost 400gr lighter than the OEM


In total, the rear wheel will be about 900gr lighter than the stock. Maybe it's few, but racing spirits hides into details 😎
Unfortunately, front wheels weights exactly the same.
I told my wife that a set of carbon rims is MANDATORY but she does not comprehend (inexplicably 😅 )

I mounted on 'em a set of Mitas Sportfoce+
Once installed, I may say that I like the new look




After the wheels, it's time to think about the removal of the ignition key holder, since the new yoke I designed is supposed to be keyless
I switched the ignition wiring on a classic Honda switch


I have an idea about the HISS antenna; I'll come back soon with some pics

Thanks for reading

 

Great progress Dr. The carbon wheels will look mucho grande. 😁

 

Mucho DIVORCED, you'd mean...

 

I think I found a solution for the HISS antenna.
The idea is creating a system allowing a flip-on and flip-off the chip as well as we do with the OEM key lock.
Just... without the key lock

That's the (crazy) idea, coming from a flip-on/flip-off system that all of us have in front of our eyes every day: our laptop.
I thought to insert a USB drive into the circular antenna, taking exactly the place of the key lock.



I secured if at the back by a 5mm bolt and 2 rubber joints, preventing it from vibration and securing it as a spring keeping it in position into the antenna assembly.


Then, to locate it properly, I made a 2mm aluminum plate to bolt on it; the holes are for 2 solid zip-ties that will keep it in position just below the dashboard



Now, I just have to insert a small USB flashdrive with the chip in it, and it will be like having a key to flip-on and flip-off: once the USB is removed, the HISS will prevent the engine from starting

I used the same system on my previous CBR1100XX; at that time I used a car sigar lighter, but the concept is the same


In one of the pictures you have surely seen a steering damper; well... that's another story... oopps, another post

 

Keep up the great work.

You'll get there 1 day.

But when are you going to ride ait? LOL

I presume when you burn up all that wood you have stacked to keep warm with the snow up to your window sills?

With the Winter Olympics going on around Milan you must get snow too.

I had a 84 VF500F "Rat Bike" for winter riding when I was much younger, but when cell phones became common, I gave it up along with commuting to downtown Chicago.

You realy fell down a rabbit hole with your 2-way ignition switches. I'm not sure our bikes ever got the HIMS ignition lockout, to me a real PITA.

Think about GL1200 fuel filters, they're cheap insurance...

I went with EBC pedal rotors and a VTR1000 SP2 front brake master cylinder and 01 CBR600 (that must be trimmed a bit) calipers with EBC pads.

Here, a Penske double or triple clicker shock used to be "The Way". The owner of this forum, Greg Nemish originally moded my forks which I've revised a couple of times since.

I have much taller 3-way adjustable clip-ons and, as I previously stated, MFW Vario Adjustable pilot pegs, a JD adjustable billet shift lever, adjustable billet levers, a Sargent saddle I customized, an ancient 2Bros exhaust, APE MCCT, lightened flywheel, FP shift star. Arm & spring, the 2 long velocity stacks (as also mentioned), modified air box, my own jetting, custom brake & clutch lines, custom rear GFR hugger & front fender extender, ancient mirror extenders with equally old R1 mirrors but upside-down, custom 3-point mount case guards, twin driving lights on stems coming out the fake intake snorkels, and as I also said, LED lighting all around.

But believe it or not, the stock clutch pack with 111k miles on it, knock on plastic!

Keep us posted!

 

mostly... NEVER!
I spent much more time (and fun, honestly) working on it rather than riding it
I came to the conclusion that I'm better as a mechanic than as a pilot. And yes, I like A LOT creating my bike, playing with technical details, designing new parts, shaping it as per my will.

Yep!!
We're full of snow, in these days; Olympic games take place in two locations: Milano and Cortina; my house is exactly in between
As you can easily imagine looking at my front yard, winter is not the most suitable season to ride a bike, here

 

I don't know if HISS transponder is used for american market; maybe not.
And I assure: it's a real PITA

The idea is brilliant: giving the ECU a recognition code that enables or not the ignition to the coils, regardless the mechanical match of the key.
The thing is that is absolutely impossible to bypass, unless you replace the ECU with a US unit or replace the whole wiring (and ECU, of course) with a pre-HISS version; so, for racing purpose, it's a PITA since you can't do without.
My guideline for this mod is "simplicity", so I want to remove everything is not striclty necessary for pure riding; HISS is a complication I have to bear with, unfortunately

 

We used to get a ton of snow back 70 years ago but global warming has significantly reduced our snowfall totals.

Still, so far this winter we've had about 20 inches (51 cm), but our municipal snow removal operations can clear the roads usually within 24 hours. Their biggest problem is finding where to put it in urban areas. The snow piles can get so tall they don't melt until May.

What is much worse are our low temperatures. We are known as Ice Station Chicago because we can get weeks of sub freezing temperatures with little sunshine. As I said, we have weeks where temps didn't get above 20F (-7C) and -10F (-23C) and lower at night.

In the winter it used to enjoy "wrenching" almost as much as riding but as my health declined, even changing the engine oil & filter to me is a PITA but I do it. And I have to split up tasks like adjusting the valves and checking carb / TB balance over 2 or 3 days. Removing wheels and changing tires (I have a NoMar tire changing machine and balancer) is very challenging for me physically. When appropriate, I'll piggyback chain and sprocket changes along with tires.

But even after 56 years riding motorbikes I still constantly yearn to be out riding. But again, it is physically challenging. I must use the Cowboy mount and dismount technique as my spine if now fused from T10 ~ S2. Both shoulders need surgery again. My hips are ****, and knees aren't great either. My hands have arthritis, and my left thumb CMC joint needs replacement. And there's a lot more. But it always could be worse.

However, just trying to twist around to do shoulder checks is frustrating. And getting into the flow on twisty roads using body English and hanging off a bit is difficult. I focus my OT and PT solely toward riding.

I see you are also into push bikes (bicycles), as was I since I was a little boy. I rode year round even after moving to Chicago. Obviously, lwhen it was icy I stayed in but I still usually managed 125 miles (200 km) a week in the winter. However, bicycling was what put me down into the shape I'm in but I wasn't hit by a car! Another albeit ******** bicyclist came almost past me, cut in, and his rear derailleur took out 9 spokes in my front wheel. The wheel consequently bananad and wedged tight in the forks and I did a flying W at 18 mph (29 kph)!

I tried to deflect the force of impact on the asphalt with my left forearm but still ffaceplanted, but my helmet did its job otherwise I'd a been dead right there. My Bell helmet actually split in half and my cold weather bicycle goggles (it was 01-01-2007) saved my right eye socket. My heavily vented Joe Rocket motorcycle jacket I wore over my jersey was actually ripped up pretty good.

I tried to continue bicycling for the next 2 years but after 4 surgeries, I had to hang up my bicycle shoes and favorite bike. I actually only rode bicycles for cross training and really didn't enjoy it. But it is great for low impact conditioning. But no more.

So only ride with trusted buddies or better, ride alone. The guy who took me out I didn't even know, he was a little jockey who thought he'd buzz an old Clydesdale like me. But he fucked up and almost killed me. It was not my first concussion but my worst. ATGATT even on a bicycle!!!

Ciao!

 

Oh wow!!! What a story!!
You've a great temper, no doubt on that

 

I heat with wood too.

Currently have about 22 cords split/stacked. 👍🏼

 

YOU WON!!