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Chineese Wave Rotors

Old 12-05-2009, 06:12 AM
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Chineese Wave Rotors

Does anyone have any long-term experience with the Chineese wave rotors sold on ebay for $150/ pair? I would love to purchase a name brand, but chippin out $500+ is unrealistic right now. I know you get what you pay for, but I only need about 10k out of them before I can afford some name brand's. Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:41 AM
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Then why not just buy a good pair of stockers...If not on here I'm sure you can find a good pair for cheap on ebay. Also remember 95-97 900rr and 94-97 vfr750 also fit.

I personally have no experience with them but my 2 cents says with everything from China you get 75% of the quality for 50% of the cost. With **** from walmart maybe that's good enough. With your brakes? That's up to you...

Last edited by captainchaos; 12-05-2009 at 06:44 AM.
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:46 AM
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Old 12-05-2009, 07:17 AM
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Going with used rotors is a great alternative, but I am a bit leary about buying used. They may look nice in the picture, but there is no way of telling if they are warped. If you know of a proven honest seller, please let me know.
After reading captainchaos's link, I'm gonna steer clear of Chineese. I feel like a retard even considering them...I have seen the off-brand Chineese atv's, dirtbikes and scooters and they are nothing more than a piece of crap.
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:10 AM
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like you said, buying used is risking getting warped.

Last edited by finepooch; 12-05-2009 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:40 AM
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What about getting some stock rotors ground down?

Is that done with drilled steel rotors?
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Old 12-05-2009, 11:00 AM
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I would ask a potential seller if they're guaranteed to be straight. If they won't take them back and refund your money if they're no good then screw 'em. I just did that the other night with two used starters. One guy replied back and said he would guarantee it to be in proper working order, so that's the one I bought.
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Old 12-05-2009, 12:37 PM
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I'm not sure if you could resurface stockers... If anyone has ever done this before, please let me know how it was done. If I find any used stockers, i'll make sure they are guaranteed. Let me know if you hear of any for sale. Thanks!
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Old 12-05-2009, 12:58 PM
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I actual used the these for my race superhawk this last half of the season. beded them in with new pads. I got them because if they worked great, if not i have two other sets of rotors I could use. after 5 race weekends here what i can report. a lot more sheer stopping power, but not as much feel and feedback when trailbreaking. started getting a tiny bit of chatter but not sure if thats the rotors or the forged wheels. most likley it a combo of both and the stock front end twisting a bit under load. all and all for 150 I was not dissapointed.
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Old 12-05-2009, 03:41 PM
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Thanks for everyone's feedback. I just purchased a nice set of used stock rotors with 13,000 miles off ebay for $125. Item description stated they are straight and they were off of a salvage bike, so I have good expectations. I should receive them in 10 days, so as long as there is no snow here, i'll let you guys know if I got a good deal or scammed. Though the Chineese price is right, I feel much better buying stock Honda than Chineese. Thanks again.
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Old 12-05-2009, 04:16 PM
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I would'nt worry about the used stock rotors being warped...more chance of the new Chinese rotors being warped out of the box....

Chinese might be OK for flip flops - but for brakes?....not for me...
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Old 12-05-2009, 04:59 PM
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Every dollar you spend on China's crap is another job here that is lost. Will you be next?
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Old 12-05-2009, 05:14 PM
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Yet we buy motorcycles that are made in Japan?

I'm not defending anyone or any point of view, nor playing devil's advocate, just pointing out the obvious. And do not let this turn into a political debate. It will get moved immediately if it does.
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Old 12-05-2009, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawkrider View Post
Yet we buy motorcycles that are made in Japan?

I'm not defending anyone or any point of view, nor playing devil's advocate, just pointing out the obvious. And do not let this turn into a political debate. It will get moved immediately if it does.
it is a two way street. you do get what you pay for & some offshore products are better than others, but there is also a large labor force that
works the docks ...

it would be nice if we had an american sportbike as an option ( & don't start the Buell bandwagon ).

tim
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by RK1 View Post
Leaving the politics of the two nations aside;

"Made in Japan" is almost always a guarantee of a high quality product made by conscientious people who take pride in what they create and sell to the rest of the world.

I think "made in China" (pet food, kids toys, drywall etc.) means "be careful with this ****!"
Mac computers are made in China. Some of the best manufacturing, as far as fit and finish, that I've seen in the personal computer field.

Late '40's through the early '60's, "Made in Japan" meant POS product. I'll wager that in 5 to 10 years, "Made in China" will not be a turn-off to some Americans. Remember the early Korean cars that were imported to the US? Now they are on the verge of Japanese level quality...just like Ford's current offerings. Soon we'll be making fun of Vietnamese made goods.

Last edited by nekkid; 12-07-2009 at 04:37 AM. Reason: Additional text
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Old 12-07-2009, 09:44 AM
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when I was a kid, japanese products were generally junk,esp compared to american. Now american products are generally junk, esp compared to japanese.

I tried some Shanghai rotors and ended up taking them off after a few months. Didn't like them other than lightweight.

It would be very difficult to exclude chinese purchases since 80% of our products come from there. We're into the chinese bigtime from imports to national debt. If they follow the lead of other asians, their products will continue to improve, probably to a high quality.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawkrider View Post
And do not let this turn into a political debate. It will get moved immediately if it does.
Agreed. This b.s. has no place in this section.
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster View Post
Agreed. This b.s. has no place in this section.

+1 that damn Hawkrider starts all this discontent and then doesn't want anyone else to opinionate. WTF!!!

Probably just pissed cause he didn't win BOTM... or maybe cause that it's too cold to ride.
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Old 12-07-2009, 03:41 PM
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Both....actually....
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:50 PM
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I agree it's tough picking a set of rotors that'll stay true. I've noticed many manufacturers sell rotors that seem fine when first installed. A few months later and they start pulsing. Checked them and they read flat and true. Checked the pads and they are fine and installed properly. Wheel and axle are straight as well.

I'm not sure because I don't have access to the equipment anymore but I'd be willing to bet it's more an issue of inconsistent hardness across the disk surface. The foundry's struggle with quality not because they're trying to go cheap, but because the old guys running them have passed away.
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:21 PM
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I am running a set of ProLite rotors and have been very happy. I can do a stoppie at a hundred and keep it under control.

Manufacturing has changed some over the last 3 or so years so I don't know.

If I were to buy again (sooner or later I'll have to) I would buy the high end rotors from companies that have stellar customer service.

$500 for rotors - no problem. I paid $200 to a member here that saved my life. Stock brakes suck.

My case goes to trial in April. The surgery on my hands/arms is a minimum of $100k including rehab. The whole medical process will take eighteen month.

The Superhawk knows how to go fast - it doesn't know how to stop. You have to teach it that.
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Old 12-08-2009, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan Cronin View Post
I agree it's tough picking a set of rotors that'll stay true. I've noticed many manufacturers sell rotors that seem fine when first installed. A few months later and they start pulsing. Checked them and they read flat and true. Checked the pads and they are fine and installed properly. Wheel and axle are straight as well.

I'm not sure because I don't have access to the equipment anymore but I'd be willing to bet it's more an issue of inconsistent hardness across the disk surface. The foundry's struggle with quality not because they're trying to go cheap, but because the old guys running them have passed away.
Actually 90% of the time this has nothing to do with the rotors... People keep saying they warped their rotors... And I keep saying that to even get them hot enough to warp them they are either too thin to begin with and needs replacing or you are at a trackday and using them excessively... Or you forgot your disc lock...

What is usually the culprit though (and I'll bet a good beer on that with your rotors since they are straight) is that you heat up the rotors and pads, then clamp down at a stop, and keep the pads on the rotor... Presto, you have now cooled down the surface of the rotors unevenly changing the surface and transfered material in a shiny film from the pads to the disc...

End result, you have a disc with varying degrees of grippy-nongrippy surface and it pulses...

The solution is easy, but not that funny... Get a sandpaper and spend an afternoon sanding the surface of the disc... you want to get the surface completely free of the lines running in circles, all new swirlys over it... But if you use machines you end up with different thickness so it's hand tools all the way... Then get new pads, bed them and the discs and no more pulsing... And DON'T keep the pads on the rotors at stops...
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Old 12-08-2009, 09:12 AM
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+1 let off the front and use rear brake for approaching and sitting at stops, and for pulling out from stops on tight turns to stay within the lane, instead of what I see many do.
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Old 12-08-2009, 12:34 PM
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I'll add that this only applies during hard riding when you've got the rotors cookin'. You want to avoid leaving the pad against the rotor. So do your hard braking down down to 1 mph, but don't hold it until the bike is stopped unless you have no choice.

During normal riding, don't worry about it.

I did a number on my Wilwoods on my car while testing the brakes out, I locked them up coming to a stop, and many thousand miles later I can still see the pad imprints from that day. And those brakes aren't cheap or cheaply made.
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Old 12-08-2009, 12:58 PM
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It's important not to beweve in anything in particurar. don't be powiticau. We are the woor, we are the chiwwins. Just wove wing-wing.

Deck the hars with bars of horry, far, rar rar rar rar rar...

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Old 12-08-2009, 01:17 PM
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Ok, thats it... No more eggnogg fer you until I'm sobered up...
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:27 PM
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Old 12-08-2009, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Tweety View Post
Ok, thats it... No more eggnogg fer you until I'm sobered up...
John Prine



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BC9QVothVIc
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:57 PM
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I would steer clear of cheap stuff. A friedn of mine had a set of them, and they were not much good. The rivets were so loose you could move them easily by hand.
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Old 12-08-2009, 05:58 PM
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Originally, I thought the vibration was a product of high mileage and just plain usage, but but my rotors are not visibly warped. The more I think about it, I believe its from overheating the rotors and pads and keeping them clamped at stops. The vibration started after a few aggressive rides, especially after hitting the Dragon's Tail for 2 days straight in July. I must have been getting them way too hot, then keeping my front brakes compressed at stops, thus changing the surface of the rotors like Tweety explained. I will hopefully recieve my used 13k stock's by this weekend and quickly test them out in the 23 degree weather..snow permitting
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