Well it's time to wrap this thread up. I still need the chain & sprockets and a rear brake line but both should show up this week.

So here it is, I do need to get a different lower triple and a few other little things but RC51 SP2 forks with Ohlins internals, Braced swingarm, Ohlins rear shock, SP2 front wheel, 900rr rear and a little of this & that ;)

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Finished product looks good. Congrats Mike. Now about that engine.... :)

Congrats on the completion :D

Why do you need a different lower triple?

My set up with the stock suspension (well the modified stock stuff...) was 10mm up in the triples and a .25" (6.35mm) spacer on the rear shock. While I liked how the bike handled I did drag the header from time to time.....:D

So I wanted to run the forks all the way down in the triples (for ground clearance) and get the geometry back by raising the rear.

Right now I have 2 issues. The first is the lower triple. With the 954 lower, I can not run the forks all the way down and still have full engagement on the lower triple. The lowest I can go is with the forks 10mm up (so I'm right about where I started in the front) and the shock I'm using doesn't have ride height adjustment.

To get where I want to be I need to change the lower triple to a SP1 so I can drop the forks down and then do a little math to figure out what I need in the rear and have a modified rear shock mount made......

I'll be done someday, really I will........ ;)

Oh I'm starting to piston shop right now....... and don't even get me started on the wheel ideas I'm starting to have..... ;)

OCMD, my friend, you have all the symptoms, lol

BTW, you likely have the best suspended VTR out there by the sounds of it :)

Yeah I know and thanks..... those Dan Kyle modified forks sure do work nice..... :D

bastige.... :) lol

Hey it could be worse....... I haven't found an M4 header yet....... ;)

For those that have done this front end swap, I followed this write up and everything works perfectly. However, when I purchased the bearings from All Balls to do this swap, the lower bearing came with two washers. I had no idea what they were for untill after I pressed the new lower bearing onto the stem. They are the exact thickness to lower the bottom tripple, so you do not have to grind/file your steering stops.

So, if you do this swap and get the bearings from All Balls, then on the lower tripple slide on the thick washer, then the stainless steel washer, then the seal, and then the bearing. Just passing along information for the next guy who uses this awesome write up.

Just one caveat to the information I posted. I have a GPR V4 steering stabilizer that mounts to steering stem. I needed the extra length of the steering stem to be able to use the GPR mount. So, if you are using or planning to use a steering stabilizer that mounts to the steering stem, then do not install those two washers I mention.

Thanks for posting this Mike. It helped me out. I'm going to drop 5 stars on this thread :)

Threads like this are great. Love them.

im getting the itch for a USD fork but here you may as well buy a new bike for what people charge for forks.

I'd be interested in your stock forks.

Ok, now I know this thread is 6 years old, but I am FINALLY doing my fork swap (954 triple, SP1 forks fondled by Sir Ditchfield). As CruxGNZ says, the All Balls kit comes with extra washers in the lower bearing kit. I have followed Crux's suggestion of including the washers, and I am wondering if anyone else has done this swap the same?

I have installed the washers under the lower bearing, and there is now no thread left above the first lock nut. So it is not possible to install the tab washer (lock washer), and second lock nut. Note these are the nuts installed before installing the top bridge. I am concerned about not being able to include the secondary lock nut, but I suppose there is the top bridge preventing anything from getting too loose. My million dollar question is... has anyone else come across this issue? Or have I made a monumental fubar?

TIA

**EDIT** I havent made a monumental fuber, as the thickness of the washers is similar to the lock nut thickness. But what has been everyone's solution (or suggestion). Will the top bridge keep the upper bearing nut from loosening?

Twitchy,
If you don't get a reply from quoting, click on Crux user name and try sending a direct email. It's been a while since he's been on the forum.

I am running the same combination of parts. I don’t remember how many or thickness of the washers. I think that there was only one on the bottom. Had no issues with the top nuts and lock washer. Seems as though if you are short on threads at the top bridge, removing a washer would help?