Adjusting the steering stops and moving the rads are the same regardless of what triple you choose... Both will hit the rad hose and both will need adjustment on the stops... The difference is the lower SP1 hits the fairings

I'm unsure if you can combine the upper from an SP1 with the lower 929/954... That changes the lenght between the two clamping points on the forklegs... At least on my 1000RR legs that won't work as they are narrower on the places they aren't supposed to be clamped... But it may be possible... 8541Hawk seems to manage on the SP2 forks... could be the same on SP1, but not sure...

SP1 forks should be fine. Here are a couple photos of the external differences between SP1 and SP2 forks. The SP2 forks have a longer section at a smaller diameter on the stanchions and even a further reduction below the top clamp. SP2 also has a beefier brake mount.

On a side note, I did a side-by side comparison between an SP2 fork with a shortened - by 50% - topout spring and an SP1 fork. Both forks have Racetech .95kg/mm springs.

The SP2 ends up 10 mm longer and has 5mm more travel, but otherwise identical for most purposes. The SP1 holds a bit more oil, due to a shorter damper cartridge, but that's about it. The only other differences I can find are a different rebound damper needle profile and different preload adjuster.

Damping valves are identical.

SP2 fork on top, SP1 on bottom:

http://i50.tinypic.com/23j023d.jpg
http://i45.tinypic.com/2enw56o.jpg

Well, if the top leg is an Sp2 then thats what I got, with ohlins internals set up for the PO who was close to my weight. I dropped in new bushings and seals and "special" ohlins fork oil, stuff was $20.00 for a quart. Sheesh.

Yeah, I'm thinking I'll try both setups, ( I did get the trees with the forks, then scored a 929 set afterwards.) Like all who have done this swap, I've procured multiples of things to pick what I like best, then the rest goes to the vultures.. I mean, will be offered to members first, then vultures.
:rolleyes:

Well it is kind of funny that we are both running the same forks. SP2s with Ohlins valves ;) On the oil, when I was at Dan Kyles shop to pick up my new springs I tried to buy some of that "special" oil and he told me not to bother. These spec forks work just fine with Honda 5w. So you can run whichever you like but I thought I would pass on the info.

Now it looks like I will have about a week and a half down time as i wait for the swingarm to be finished and then the powder coating....... :(

Yeah, I thought as much on the oil, but the local ripoffs (who are close to me) really didn't have much else I'd have rather tried, so..

Well still on parts hold so I can finish the rear set up but the front is basically done as I finished the brakes system today. The it was the first trip outside to clean the rest of the road grime and gunk

Attachment 8380

Attachment 8381

Attachment 8382


Oh and I had to fix a dumbass mistake I made a while back.... it would appear that "someone" forgot to put on the anti-seize before they put in their timing inspection covers...... don't let this happen to you.... ;)

Attachment 8383

Well to day was one of those days when I should have just left well enough alone, but noooo I was bored. So things started out well, decide to check the valve clearance. Nothing was really out of spec but as I was already in there a couple of valves were on the tight side of spec so might as well adjust them......

Attachment 8390

Attachment 8391

Attachment 8392

Attachment 8393


No real problems until it was time for the last cam bolt........yep right down the motor.... so time for exploring....... well I guess it's a good excuse to put in an advancer while I'm in there maybe a shift star.....not sure yet....

Attachment 8394

If than wasn't bad enough, when I went to install the front valve cover one of the bolts sheared off. Of course it is a good .200 below the surface of the head and as it's the front cover I have to pull the forks to get a drill in there to easy out the damn thing.......

That's when I went inside.....

Dude! I was just gettin antsy to go out and pull/clean my carbs, slap in original size jets as I found mine were oversized for some reason by PO when I cleaned 'em last year, check valve clearances, drill out the the valve cover where I sheared off one of the pair valve cover bolts, hmmm.. maybe it's a sign, seeing as I'm like one step behind you on all this umm healthy activity, think I'll concentrate on my front wheel set-up instead, turned out a couple of bushings for the front wheel bearings in the CBR1000rr front wheel yesterday, to proceed with mock up while waiting for the new wheel bearings, the Rc51 bearings will fit right into the 1000rr wheel.
Yeah sounds good yeah....

Thinking of using the superbike mod as a choice for bars, I was looking over the chart for the protapers, and think I might try one of the ATV bends, possibly the ATV Mid with the 5.9" height with 3" of pullback, or might even try one of the mini sets as the center section is narrower than the full size bars, but, I can still get a bar thats a full 28-3/4" wide, which would be cool as it seems like other people have had to cut the full size bars down. Any thoughts or suggestions? Throw 'em out there fella's.

OMG! your in it and in it deep. Looks fantastic and insane , let me know when it's testing time.. You may need a wing man.

Ok, small speed bump here, may not be an issue but I still need to ask. Mocked up the front wheel, nice and centered, right caliper is dead nuts centered on the rotor, the left one isn't, if using center line of the caliper as a guide, it's nearly fully aligned
to the inside of the rotor. I removed the caliper mount and just set the caliper on the rotor and pumped 'em up, it still aligns the same way. So.. The question is, does it really have to be centered or not.

Sounds like we ran into the same problem. With the wheel in place the caliper on the left was almost touching the outside edge of the rotor, while the right side was perfect. I ended up spacing the mounting bracket that mounts to the forks around .040" out with a couple of shims to get the caliper centered on the rotor. Of course i did all this before I mounted the pads to make things a bit easier to measure.

Well when thing go bad, they go really bad......http://www.southbayriders.com/forums...ilies/bash.gif http://www.southbayriders.com/forums...lies/mecry.gif

After trying every trick I know I was left with no option but to take more stuff apart. All in all things look pretty good for a motor with close to 80k miles on it running Ca regular the entire time.

Attachment 8417

Attachment 8418

Attachment 8419

Oh and one of the buggered valve cover bolt hole.....

Attachment 8420

bummer. if you are in there definitely do the shift star mod if you can get one. it makes a huge difference in just the slickness of shifting. I know these already shift OK, but its just super slick after.

Well that was in the plan but I might have blown the budget with this last mishap so we will have to see :(

Yeah, just in the opposite direction, since I posted I've been searching, but not much to be found. I just thought it odd that even independant of the mounting bracket, ( I removed it entirely), pumping it up still did not center the caliper on the rotor.
Some of what I found centered around making sure the pistons are clean, so, I'll grab some 1/8" stock, pump the pistons out and clean 'em real good. Then give it another go.

I wouldn't worry about it not centering off the bracket. Cleaning the piston should help and disassembling the calipers is actually very easy to really clean them out.

To center the caliper you can add a shim between the caliper and the mounting bracket.

I hear ya, I'm not going to shim out the actual mounting bracket to move the caliper outboard. So for me I'll have to bring the caliper in to work and hit the mounting points with an end mill to 0.090 to bring it out to center of rotor, no real biggie, I just haven't run into this particular issue before, I've had to shim the calipers in before 0.020 or so, it's probably because I'm using a cbr1000rr wheel & rotors.

Well, it looks as if my issue was self induced, using the cbr1000 spacers for mock-up, while waiting for the Rc51 stuff is what was preventing proper alignment. So in the mean time, I tore down and blasted the calipers' (F4i), ready for powder-coat and new seals.:rolleyes:

New seals are pricey.. I know because I purchased a set and ended up not needing them. So now they sit on my shelf looking forlorn.

Well update time.... going to have the head fixed this afternoon but for a motor with 80k miles on it, things are looking pretty good.....


Attachment 8537

Attachment 8538

At least I'm back to making progress on getting this done. Got the swingarm back yesterday so I got to actually put something back together last night. ;)

Attachment 8539

Attachment 8540

Attachment 8541

Attachment 8542

Attachment 8543

Swingarm looks great.. powder coating is kewl... rims and forks are
trick... Frame is almost stripped ..nows the time to powder coat it..
As if ya don't have enouph going on ... lol

That will have to wait until next year when I do the motor.....

lol well it does look great anyway... you know the rain stopped.. for now. I look forward to riding with you.
good day...:D

So after my little mishap I had to pull the heads to fix the valve cover bolt hole and while they were off did a bit of port clean up on them.

Attachment 8644

Attachment 8645

Then it was time to reintroduce them to their old friends....

Attachment 8646

Add a head gasket....

Attachment 8647

Then add this big lump...

Attachment 8648

Then start bolting on bits until the parts pile starts to get small....

Attachment 8649

Front cyl complete....

Attachment 8650

Time to do it all over again for the rear cyl.

Attachment 8651


Front and rear done and buttoned up.

Attachment 8652

Attachment 8653

No the top end is ready for the carbs but time to put on the rest of the covers first.

Attachment 8654

While the clutch cover was off I installed new clutch springs and a 4 degree advancer

Attachment 8655

The clutch cover can be a real bitch to reinstall, you do need at least 3 hands to get it done...

Attachment 8656


Oil pan prep...

Attachment 8657


Hey it's starting to look like a bike again....

Attachment 8658

Then it's time to hang the super-sized carbs...

Attachment 8659


After the intake is buttoned up mount the rads and hoses

Attachment 8660

Then say that is enough for the day

Attachment 8661

Attachment 8662



Now to start getting the body work squared away...... should be on the road soon.

That is looking mighty fine :) The white wheels and black braced swingarm are a nice combo.

I'll do the rest of the frame next year while the motor is out, that is after I'm done with the bracing ;)

Oh and I put the first heat cycle on the motor today, fired right off after about 2-3 sec of cranking :D

He he, it's all downhill from here, welcome to the wonderful world of OCMD :)

OCMD. Do I officially have it? While doing the front end swap, once the forks were on, and the fairing still off, I was thinking it might have to become a streetfighter next winter. Can't leave well enough alone. Or a RC-51 swingarm.

OCMD, I think I have a mild case.

looks good!

Jackpot! You ready to ride? Nice and clean work, thanks for the photos.

So today was fix the oil leak (stupid clutch cover.....http://www.southbayriders.com/forums...ilies/bash.gif ) and roll her outside to run her for a bit to get the thermostat to open and check the fan for operation. Now it's wait for the chain & sprockets and the rear brake line to show up next week. So it's time to get all the body work ready to hang....... Getting real close http://www.southbayriders.com/forums.../smilewink.gif

Attachment 8666

Attachment 8667