What do you think of my winter project 2022 - LED brakelight for a Honda VTR 1000 Firestorm/Superhawk?

Requirements of the VTR:

- the on-board power supply of the VTR fluctuates between approx. 12 and 16 V depending on the speed;
- Red LEDs are regularly operated with 1.9 to 2.1V, typically with 2.0V and 20mA;;
- 50 to 90 LEDs are installed for tail light and brake light;
- Wind, weather, heat, humidity, vibration;


Problems:

1. power hunger and dissipation of analog resistor circuits:

- analog resistor circuits have very large power dissipation (heat) due to the resistors used, which must be supplied by the LiMa via the (already problematic) rectifier in the rear of the VTR;
- the resistance increases with heat, in summer it is even more critical;


2. fluctuations in the on-board power supply:

- the higher the RPM, the more heat is generated and the higher the supply voltage to the tail light;
- LEDs need a constant supply voltage; red LEDs need in the nominal range 1.8 to 2.0V;
- from about 2.3V the red LEDs start to burn themselves. They burn out and just glow (this was the case for me with the "V" tail light portion);


3. direct current:

- the on-board power supply of the VTR still delivers a relatively high ripple of the supply voltage via the rectifier (sloppy DC current) and briefly drops into the negative range (quasi AC current);

- However, LEDs only work in one direction; LEDs need "clean" DC current;



Solution:

- Interconnection of a small power supply between VTR and rear light: Compensation of the fluctuating on-board voltage as input voltage and stabilization of the output voltage for the LEDs via a digital circuit;
--> DC power supply has 92-100% efficiency; very low power dissipation; the prototype has over 97 % efficieny
--> taillight/brake light are very bright, also easily suitable for tinted taillights (like mine);
--> taillight and brake light are continuously adjustable in brightness independently of each other;
--> taillight/brake light always illuminates consistently regardless of speed;
--> less than 14 watts power consumption at the DC power supply (original halogen has 21 watts), the V2 tail light had 26 watts;
--> no heat generation (the power supply doesn't even get warm);
--> ripple is almost completely eliminated by the DC power supply; remaining ripple is negligible;


The weather/humidity/rust problem is achieved by a self-healing/flexible insulation layer of all conductors, circuit components, etc. (the bluish tint); so it can be operated virtually under water;

The prototype works great. The design of the LEDs is of course changeable. The light on the pictures is always relative to the environment, so it is only an impression. The brake light is much brighter (as it should be) than the tail light.

Brake and taillight each have a small power supply and also remain completely cold during continuous operation (tested under full load 1h).

ANY Design in possible!

The result: my "V2" Brakelight. The "V" is always on, the Roman No 2 "II" eluminates when braking

first design impressions. i did a lot different designs



The two circuits are the power supplies. One for rear-, one for brakelight



bluish finisch is a waterproof insulation applied liquuidly

I try to make it easyEDA as a next step.

 

A dozen + years ago I replaced the taillight incandescent bulbs with extremely bright LED units and swapped the flasher relay with a low draw device. I also tapped into a 12v + ignition on circuit and replaced the OEM rear turn signals with like new fronts and now have blindingly bright rear turn AND running lights. The front TS/RL are LP Type 3 3D flush mounts with clear lens converted internally to amber / white LED units. I also added amber LED side position lights onto the pillion footpeg brackets. A Cyclops LED headlight unit and a Kisan Electronics Healight Modulator, a d twin 59w eq driving lights defend the front. I built my own red LED license plate frame tied into the brake light circuit.

With LED instrument bulbs, I'd be 100% LED.

All powered by my own Mosfet VRR conversion.

Can you say CONSPICUITY?!!!

50 years riding on the street always full ATGAT the last 35 tells me "This is the way".

A couple, 3 years ago I added a Brakefee helmet brake light and a Hit-Air airbag vest.

That and constant training and vigilant practiced on the street and track keeps you alive and young!

 

Super cool project! Thanks for sharing.

 

Has all people outfitted an LED rear light and if so how did you get round providing quite a number plate mild?.





Tutuapp 9Apps

 

I used these license plate M6 fasteners that have LED's built into them.