captainchaos

Those look nice. Wonder how well those little offset brackets would hold up to a lowside...

superhawk22

Doesn't look like it's missing, they made 2 types, mine have the alm. spacer and the slider is much shorter than the kind you have.

superhawk22

Should be fine, the last set I had,(different brand used aluminum for the bracket instead of steel), took a highside but pulled the bolt out.

Randman

They look good, and hopefully they do there job...or is it you hope they never have to do there job!!

reaper

The bracket is beefy and instead of machining, it is Tig welded and the bolts are 12.9 grade steel.

If anyone is interested, I can post some pictures of the brackets off the bike to get a better idea of the construction of the sliders.

Let me know.

Randman

He said "Beefy" LOL...

gotbeef

Mine was the welded version that came without the spacers. The black bracket was interfering with the frame so I had to put a washer between the frame and the bracket. Another thing that bugged me a bit was how my knees kept on hitting the thing during hard riding. I tilted the bracket a farther away from me but my knees still touch them time to time.

Another thing I did was to put a thick black hose over the portion of the frame slider bolt that sticks past the black bracket. I'm doing it because my last crash with LSI frame sliders showed me that these brackets WILL rotate (toward the back of the bike) during a crash and the slider bolts that stick out past the bracket could take a chunk out of the frame if they weren't covered with some hard rubber that will stay in place. It's not as pretty to look at as shiny bolts...

For the price (and availability) I think they're good products overall.

I may take some pics of the new sliders and pics of the demolished LSI sliders.

ali_squidz

very very pretty! and no cutting involved! bonus!!

BLAKCK HAWK

where's u get the red brake lines, they look tight. was it ez to bleed the slave cylinder. some say it's a pain. or were they all typical bleeds to do ?

reaper

I got the brake/clutch lines from Hel, http://www.helusa.com/, and bleeding the brakes and clutch were not difficult for one person. I used 1/8" ID tubing, the same stuff you use for aquarium pumps, pushing it onto the brake/clutch bleed nipple. Make sure that the container you are pumping the fluid into has fluid in it and the tube is in the fluid. You do not want to get air in your lines.

Also, make sure the caps are off the reservoirs. Using an 8mm wrench for the brakes and a 10mm wrench for the clutch, pump the levers and open the bleed screws a 1/4 turn and continue to pump. You may have to close the bleed screw in order to build up pressure again and watch the reservoirs to make sure they have plenty of fluid in them.

You will know when the air is out of the lines when the pedal/lever gets harder to push. When you bleed the fronts, do one side at a time.

If you decide to change out the brake lines I would recommend you switch the front from the stock one line into two, to two separate lines, I find the braking better.

Hope this helps.

BLAKCK HAWK

that helps, so you just open the lines in fluid and pump until they get harder.
oh, by the way, i got the exact same t-rex today. i'll hook=um up soon.

thanks for the info..

Hawkrider

Hook all the stuff up. Bleeding for brakes or clutch goes like this:

squeeze, open bleeder, shut bleeder, release. Repeat.

The quicker you can do this the better since the higher fluid flow will entrain air bubbles rather than just let them sit in the high spots or stick to the sides.

clarkwebb

The sliders work awesome in a crash, except when the bike goes in the grass, the sliders dig in and then the bike gets launched. the trex sliders came out fine though.

Kendrick