Hezzelwood

this was posted in the technical section - "Here's a dumb one: Which way to turn the petcock on?" but I thought more people might see it here.

Some detailed shots of my project bike: (click on the thumbnails for larger photo and captions)

http://www.xmission.com/~delwood/the...heWarthog.html

Anyway, the handlebar risers are off of a CB350 -$10 from the boneyard - and modified to fit on the sloped top clamp of the 929 with 'quicksteel' putty type epoxy.

I first drilled the holes for the riser mounting studs - they have one large stud rather than two small ones - and then attached them to the handlebars and then clamped the whole assembly in place while I packed the underside of the top clamp with quicksteel, surrounding the (greased-for-release) riser stud.

The result is that the top clamp is now like a solid billet type clamp, rather than the original thin casting, which would definitely not be strong enough to hold the risers. After the material hardened, I then scored the aluminum risers enough to make the quicksteel bond well, and then packed more quicksteel around and under the base of the riser itself, basically forming a new base to mate to the top clamp.

Before I packed the quicksteel onto the riser, I sprayed a bit of WD40 to the top of the top clamp for release. It took a few tubes of the quicksteel, but I wanted to build it up nice and thick at the base for strength. After it hardened fully (couple of days) I filed it to shape, sanded it, and gave it a good coat of Rustoleum textured black. When I mounted it finally, I used a bit of double sided foam tape as a gasket. It's totally tight and there is no sign of any cracking or whatnot.

I'll draw up a quick diagram so you can see what I've been talking about.

When I saw the outrageous price they were asking for the superbike bar conversion ($400-$500) I had to find my own solution. (Risers = $10, quicksteel and paint = $15) Like I said, nothing like a good hardware store : )

I had repaired a busted clutch lever years ago with this quicksteel, and it always surprised me how well it held up. Besides, the flat top clamp included in the conversion kit basically drops your front end another 3/4", and as 'quick' as the 929 front felt when I first road tested it (with the stock bars), I didn't want to drop it any lower. (more confidence at slower, in town speeds)

The hardest part of this whole thing is probably just making sure you have the handlebar/riser assembly squared up when you clamp it all in place before you start packing in the putty. (make sure the riser studs are perfectly parallel) Oh, and making sure you get the (greased) fender washer installed underneath in time to smash the putty into shape before it hardens (see the diagram)

Pretty low tech, but it was fun...

Hezzelwood

Forgot to mention this: the putty hardens faster the bigger the chunk you work with, so it's much better to work with smaller pieces and build it up in layers. If you tried to work it all in one shot it probably will over-heat and harden before you get it all shmushed into place. I found that a piece about 1 inch square was a good working size. D

kai ju

Thanks for the explanation.
I went through the same sticker shock when I checked into bar risers/tripleclamps for my bike.
We came up with similar solutions but yours look like it may have been a little less work.
Again, nice job.

Kai Ju

CNI Dawg

Hmmmm..... I wonder if the 'quick steel' would work to stiffen up the stock upper & lower triple clamps?
Maybe fill in the gaps/voids on the underside of the castings to strengthen them?

The stock ones looked pretty light & flex prone when I looked under there & saw how flemsly (sp?) they were made.

Is 'Quick Steel' the same as J B Weld?

Hezzelwood

They are both metalized epoxies, but the J.B. Weld is about the consitency of thick honey, whereas the Quick Steel is more like a modelling clay.

As far as making the clamps stiffer, I think you may have problems like having it pop out like a cube from an ice tray under flex. In the bar conversion application I have used it more as a big spacer. The riser bolt is what's holding everything together.

I have seen both J.B. Weld and Quick Steel pop off in a big chunk from metal. When it cures it's more rigid than the metal. I think it's doubtful if the bond would hold up over time, especially in a flexing situation.