header pipe
08-14-2004, 09:23 PM
#2
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Location: Los Angeles, California
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Re: header pipe
You can wrap it with exhaust wrap (header tape), but I don't reccomend it.
#1. The wrap is abrasive. It will scratch the pipes. Those scraches will rust very quickly. Then when the wrap get's wet, the wrap becomes "rust" colored.
#2. The wrap picks up dirt very, very easily, and very quickly looks worse than the discolored pipe.
The only "true" solution for discolored pipes are polishing frequently, or ceramic coating.
You can have the header chromed, then have the interior of the header ceramic coated. The ceramic coating won't prevent ALL blueing of the pipe, but if you polish frequently, keep the pipe clean, it does a darn good job.
The other option is to have both theinside and ouside of the pipe ceramic coated. They won't be shiney, but they will be cooler (less heat transfer to the rear shock) and they are easier to clean.
#1. The wrap is abrasive. It will scratch the pipes. Those scraches will rust very quickly. Then when the wrap get's wet, the wrap becomes "rust" colored.
#2. The wrap picks up dirt very, very easily, and very quickly looks worse than the discolored pipe.
The only "true" solution for discolored pipes are polishing frequently, or ceramic coating.
You can have the header chromed, then have the interior of the header ceramic coated. The ceramic coating won't prevent ALL blueing of the pipe, but if you polish frequently, keep the pipe clean, it does a darn good job.
The other option is to have both theinside and ouside of the pipe ceramic coated. They won't be shiney, but they will be cooler (less heat transfer to the rear shock) and they are easier to clean.
08-15-2004, 09:24 AM
#4
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Location: Thornwood, NY
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Re: header pipe
jb-
You can try this site...
http://www.jet-hot.com/index.html
I had a set of shorty headers for my Mustang done buy them years ago... (maybe 8) the cost wasn't that much, but I believe it has gone up since then though. They looked pretty good... I sold the car a little bit after so can't tell you any long use things about them but I was happy when I first got them back.
My rough guess is that the cost would probably be in the 200 range to get it done, but I think you can email or call them and they'll give you a quote.
If you go this way, make sure to post your results and cost... I might be interested in doing this over the winter months... too much fun riding now!!
J.
You can try this site...
http://www.jet-hot.com/index.html
I had a set of shorty headers for my Mustang done buy them years ago... (maybe 8) the cost wasn't that much, but I believe it has gone up since then though. They looked pretty good... I sold the car a little bit after so can't tell you any long use things about them but I was happy when I first got them back.
My rough guess is that the cost would probably be in the 200 range to get it done, but I think you can email or call them and they'll give you a quote.
If you go this way, make sure to post your results and cost... I might be interested in doing this over the winter months... too much fun riding now!!
J.
08-15-2004, 03:31 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Southeast PA
Posts: 409
You can also have the header powder coated with high temp paint. Similar to jet hot.
Comes in different colors too.
I got mine done in silver, which can be polished to look like chrome, but I just put it on the way it was. It got covered up by my lower anyway.
Cost for Powdercoat was $115.
Comes in different colors too.
I got mine done in silver, which can be polished to look like chrome, but I just put it on the way it was. It got covered up by my lower anyway.
Cost for Powdercoat was $115.
08-15-2004, 11:55 PM
#6
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Re: header pipe
I paid $130 2 years ago to get my 2 bro's header ceramic coated.
It should run between $100 and $250, depending on where you go. HPC and Jet-Hot are the 2 biggest names, but they are also probably the most expensive (but both are also known for QUALITY).
If you do an internet search on "Ceramic coating" and "Exhaust" you'll find LOADS of info.
Powdercoating is also an option, but is usually close to the cost of Ceramic coating, but a tad cheaper, but it doesn't have the thermal benefits of ceramic coating.
It should run between $100 and $250, depending on where you go. HPC and Jet-Hot are the 2 biggest names, but they are also probably the most expensive (but both are also known for QUALITY).
If you do an internet search on "Ceramic coating" and "Exhaust" you'll find LOADS of info.
Powdercoating is also an option, but is usually close to the cost of Ceramic coating, but a tad cheaper, but it doesn't have the thermal benefits of ceramic coating.
01-07-2005, 12:59 AM
#7
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Squid
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Christchurch NZ
Posts: 39
Re: header pipe
HPC or JetHot
I got my headers polished a while back and they came up awesome but then discoloured to a golden purple - still looked way better than the manky orignal finish.
You should actually get themcoated inside and out as this increases exhaust scavenging efficiency and keeps more heat inside the pipe which keeps up gas flow speed.
Shaggie
I got my headers polished a while back and they came up awesome but then discoloured to a golden purple - still looked way better than the manky orignal finish.
You should actually get themcoated inside and out as this increases exhaust scavenging efficiency and keeps more heat inside the pipe which keeps up gas flow speed.
Shaggie
03-29-2005, 05:47 AM
#11
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Posts: 230
Re: header pipe
you should see the motor running cooler, and a little boost in low end once it is warm. Here are the numbers for my SS.
Factory 293hp 310ft/lb
LT headers and a few others 435hp@6000RPM 476ft/lb @3700rpm
same on bottle 595hp@5700 and 678ftlb
coated same otherwise 437hp and 489ft/lb @2300rpm!!!!!!
And we dynoed it 5 times to make sure and then recalibrated the dyno. The fact that the heat never was high in the header the gas flowed alot faster and my EGT was alot more consistent. But the greatest was the addition of 13ft/lbs and at 1400rpm faster. I will always go with et hot and the new exhaust I am getting (from a board memebr) will be sent to them to be buetified.
Hey JB did you get yours coated inside also??? It is like 50 bucks more usual for cars, so i always make them do it, double the barrier
I have had 17 headers done by jet hot on almost every vehicle i have owned and they are the best.
Factory 293hp 310ft/lb
LT headers and a few others 435hp@6000RPM 476ft/lb @3700rpm
same on bottle 595hp@5700 and 678ftlb
coated same otherwise 437hp and 489ft/lb @2300rpm!!!!!!
And we dynoed it 5 times to make sure and then recalibrated the dyno. The fact that the heat never was high in the header the gas flowed alot faster and my EGT was alot more consistent. But the greatest was the addition of 13ft/lbs and at 1400rpm faster. I will always go with et hot and the new exhaust I am getting (from a board memebr) will be sent to them to be buetified.
Hey JB did you get yours coated inside also??? It is like 50 bucks more usual for cars, so i always make them do it, double the barrier
I have had 17 headers done by jet hot on almost every vehicle i have owned and they are the best.
04-18-2005, 09:09 PM
#16
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SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
Re: header pipe
Sweat look
I disagree with the Header wrap statement above tho. I have had mine wrapped from each cylinder head till where the slip-ons connect for over two year and mine still is white and clean. I use simple green (won't streak aluminum) and just spary the wrap and wash off. I have gooten caught in numerous rain storms and had to run across mud areas that washed across roads and in all instances i have been able to clean up the wrap very easily.
Besides if the wrap is of a good quality it will be easy to clean and stays looking sharp. It is a different look for those that like it. I have yet to have a risting problem, It s a stainless Steel pipe that shouldn't be rusting to start with.
Every one of the superhawk pipes i have seen polished have eventually turned color due to heat anyway and loose the chrome look over time.
I disagree with the Header wrap statement above tho. I have had mine wrapped from each cylinder head till where the slip-ons connect for over two year and mine still is white and clean. I use simple green (won't streak aluminum) and just spary the wrap and wash off. I have gooten caught in numerous rain storms and had to run across mud areas that washed across roads and in all instances i have been able to clean up the wrap very easily.
Besides if the wrap is of a good quality it will be easy to clean and stays looking sharp. It is a different look for those that like it. I have yet to have a risting problem, It s a stainless Steel pipe that shouldn't be rusting to start with.
Every one of the superhawk pipes i have seen polished have eventually turned color due to heat anyway and loose the chrome look over time.
04-20-2005, 09:30 PM
#18
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Re: header pipe
Stainless Yes, the wrap is not abrasive, it is a fiberclass based cloth material. You soak it is a bucket of water and wrap the pipe. It is held on by Safty wire wrapping on eack end and some people use water hose clamps.
Wrap can easily be removed with no mess. Pipe can then be repolished just as you can do when the pipe is tarnesed when never wrapped.
Wrap can easily be removed with no mess. Pipe can then be repolished just as you can do when the pipe is tarnesed when never wrapped.
11-23-2005, 09:53 PM
#23
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Re: header pipe
OK now you have got me thinking about wrapping my headers...how many rolls of tape is that gonna take. and does it really hold with a clamp or wire? that seems like it might be kind of crappy looking, does anyone have pics of pipes wrapped up to the cans?
if i am going to do it i want it all the way up
if i am going to do it i want it all the way up
11-28-2005, 06:04 PM
#24
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Re: header pipe
i too am thinking about the tape or the jet hot. I think i am looking more at the jet hot just cause i here it works really really well. i talked to a couple of guys that had there street rod done and it makes a noticable difference for them and they say its a no brainer. Also they say the reduction of heat is the best part.
I think i answered my my own question I am gonna do the jet hot with itermediate pipes included. I will post when i get them back.
I think i answered my my own question I am gonna do the jet hot with itermediate pipes included. I will post when i get them back.
01-21-2006, 04:22 PM
#25
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Squid
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01-21-2006, 05:24 PM
#26
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Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 882
Re: header pipe
I should get my pipes back from the ceramic coater here in town & will let you know.
This guy polishes them so they look like polished aluminum when they are done.
Performance Coating Specialtes
(817) 274-1947
1107 California Ln Ste 209
Arlington, TX 76015
You can polish the jet hot coating but you have to put in the time doing it yourself!
I'll post some pictures when I get them back & installed.
Did my TBR headers and connector pipes.
Might do the cans later if the pipes turn out good.\
It's a 2 week turnaround time (depending how busy he is) not including shipping time.
This guy polishes them so they look like polished aluminum when they are done.
Performance Coating Specialtes
(817) 274-1947
1107 California Ln Ste 209
Arlington, TX 76015
You can polish the jet hot coating but you have to put in the time doing it yourself!
I'll post some pictures when I get them back & installed.
Did my TBR headers and connector pipes.
Might do the cans later if the pipes turn out good.\
It's a 2 week turnaround time (depending how busy he is) not including shipping time.
01-21-2006, 06:27 PM
#27
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SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
OK now you have got me thinking about wrapping my headers...how many rolls of tape is that gonna take. and does it really hold with a clamp or wire? that seems like it might be kind of crappy looking, does anyone have pics of pipes wrapped up to the cans?
if i am going to do it i want it all the way up
if i am going to do it i want it all the way up
Trick is to soak it in water before you wrap it. Start at one end and overlap where you start to hold it in place the just overlap each time about 3/8" as you go down the pipe. My suggestion is to start in the rear and wrap to the front, that way the over lapped ridges will be facing the rear instead of the front. Once you reach the end use two seperate strand of Safty Wire to hold in place. Mine has been on for over two year and holds up extreamly well. I just shoot mine with simple green and the rinse off with a water house pipe. I have gotten mine pretty dirty and it always comes clean, Drys very fast if it gets wet, so no worries there either. You can almost grab the pipe and hold it. Really keep heat away from the rear shock.
I wouldn't use water hose clamps to keep it in place, that would look pretty crappy. The safty wire is easy to install assuming you have a safty wire plier set (Habour Frieght has them cheap, twist the wire for you).
What ever you decide, good luck.
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