Great pics guys thanks! Just gave me a few ideas for the future...
And skokievtr how did you mount those extra lights I see? Custom bracket or did the lights themselves come with a mounting bracket that could be manipulated into place? Always wanted additional lighting, but was at a loss for how to proceed...I notice when I lean into a curve in the dark I cant see squat ahead of me cause my beam leans too LOL
I assume those aux lights solve that problem?

Twin 50w halogens are quite small & light that really light up the road out 125 feet or so. My attached design is representative of what I fabricated & installed. Power is through my own harness with relay (switched from the left clip-on) direct from the battery (fed direct from a Kawi mosfet VR-R) via 10 gauge wire to an auxiliary power buss with 14 gauge wire to the lights.

Hmmm...10awg seems overkill LOL but cool man! It doesn't affect air flow/cooling over the radiators? From what I've read those air dams are functional to flow over the side-mount radiators...but I suppose its trivial, really.

Hey, Bandit, Ya can't tell my brother....:D
Got the footpegs on my brothers bike.. The four pins in each, and the 50mm screws really worked well. Even jumped some railroad tracks, Just to feel for flexs.. Even with standing on the pegs on the landing...
The set of Jap'junk just need back-wood engineering(or whatever ya'll call it)

10 is not too big to the buss, heck we use 8 when possible from the battery. Remember, DC requires bigger gauges for less amperage loss the farther you run.

The scoops & ducts do NOTHING. The rads cool from inside-out, high pressure to low pressure. Check which way the fan blows and where the heat goes. The ducts are there for looks...

And 1971, without meaning to be PC, me thinks you have your manufacturing origins a bit off. Also, sound engineering is often ruined by poor execution and visa versa.

I ran without them for years as the early ones rattled. Then was given a set and reinstalled them with no difference in engine temp either way. ;)

Yeah, figured as much, concerning the radiators...

And I found these on fleabay: 3 LED Aux lights

There from another Asian nation, but electrical things are what their GOOD at over there LOL so I hold higher hopes than machined parts after this whole foot peg debacle LOL

Interesting and probably light weight with what appear to be good connectors, and it seems possible to mount them to the end of a square tube.

however, I have found tht even Cree emitters provide feeble illumination and that is based on testing 10w units. 3 x 5w adds volume but not brightness. My 50w halogens provide about 3,300~4,000 lumens EACH, compared to about 850 for this PAIR of LED. Hella makes a small but not as light weight set of lights under their "Optilux" line called the 962's that use 55w H3 halogens that will rock your world compared to any but the recent & very expensive LED motorcycle driving lights. Your mounts will have to be sturdier but the Optilux 962 at about $40 for the complete kit are the best, smallest of such units I've found out there.

Good stuff man I'll check those out..

skokievtr, hate to contradict you my friend, but since the technical spec for a H3 Halogen bulb at 12V is around 1500 Lumens in Hella's reference reflector, I doubt you are getting 4000 Lumens, as that would make the reflector and lense in those more than twice as effective as Hella's own reference... I'd say it's probably reasonable that you get ~4000 Lumens for the pair though...

And with the stock H4 in the crappy oem reflector giving you ~1000 Lumens or so, you are at a total of ~5000 Lumens, so you got me beat by a country mile, as my HID projector puts out around 3200 Lumens...

But, I'm kind of tempted to put in two HID projectors, both dual beams, giving me a total of ~6400 Lumens... Haven't quite worked it out though...

Meh, I did some research on those 962's...heard they weren't that bright, have a bunch of ballast, relays and such to hide, and get hot as heck...LED's seem to be the clear alternative.

I sent an email to the guys selling those lights I found. If they give me a deal on shipping I'll purchase them and do another write up/real world report.

Well... You are sorely mis-informed then... The 962's have no ballast as they are halogens, not HID's... There are numbnut vendors that stick HID bulbs in them and in knock off's, and sell them using Hella's name making them about useless for anything other than paperweights, but that's not what skokievtr and I was talking about...

As stock halogen lights, they are very, very good and at a reasonable price... No ballasts, nothing stupid... What you see is what you get... And at around 1500-2000 Lumens per light, in a tight and focused beam, a pair of them will get you very good light... Se my post above, skokievtr should have more usable light output with his than I have with a properly set up HID projector...

If you want REAL and usable light, forget about those LED's and either get a HID projector retrofitted into the stock headlight housing, or put a harness and relay in there to give the stock bulb the correct power and put a pair of those 962's on like discussed... Trust me, they aren't getting any hotter than any other halogen light... Ie not comfortable to hold on to, but that's normal... With an illegal HID coversion in them, they are bright as hell when looking at them, blinding, prone to overheating and gives less usable light than before... Plus you got to hide the ballasts...

Or, if you want, buy Hella's newer versions with a HID bulb... It has the same drawbacks with a ballast to hide, but with a correct lense and house for the HID bulb, it's bright as hell, but not blinding...

Good info Tweey, thanks! And your right, they were just cheapy's labeled as Hella.

But personally I'm cheaper than dirt LOL so I'm trying out a full DIY setup using some LED bicycle lights I found...Though not that same model last posted. Ones Im trying have only @ a 1.5" diameter...which will hide nicely inside the front air dams...I plan on getting them and testing them out on a running 12V system...if they pass muster I'll buy another one and wire them in parallel with a generic on/off handlebar mount switch and cross my fingers. Then I gotta jury rig a mount somehow...I'm confidant:)
I'll do another thread when I get em.

M-Man, As usual U R correct. Had a brain cramp looking at chart as it is a bit over 4k for the pair. I need new eyeglass lens for my right eye like my contacts.

With my upgraded VR-R and HD wiring harnesses I'm getting max power to all my lighting and have reduced draw with LED in position, brake & turn lighting to compensate for the higher headlight-driving light amperage. This is a must given the OEM alternator is only producing 280w at 5k rpm. I still can run my heated vest and grips but not too long (or on high) with the twin 50's firing. I also am running a Osram 70/65w H4 (<b>Osram Rallye 70/65w +50 H4 bulb</b>) in the headlight; I recommend them highly and they're on sale now and may buy 2 more! BTW, I have a Kissan headlight modulator (Headlight Modulator) in my HD headlight wiring system that functions on high-beam. I also highly recommend them for 3 very important reasons (that more than offset the nurd-geek factor):
1. HLM (which I've run for 20 years) have saved my bacon more times than I can count! You WILL be seen AND noticed! 2. Cagers often will actually move over and let you by mistaking you for an emergency vehicle. Usually they do so safely but not always. 3. Police think you are a law abiding, safety conscious motorcyclist (especially since I often wear a "super see-me" vest) and almost always (knock on plastic) give you a pass if you are a mph few over (though I also run a radar detector)!

Bandit, how did these work for you? I found this thread while searching for a method to give me a little more room for my legs on my bike.

As a mechanical engineer the failure of the footpeg that you have shown has me a little concerned. You are right that the weak link is now the other fastener with the small amount of thread engagement. I would be surprised if that joint doesn't fail like the other.