CruxGNZ's '98 Superhawk
#301
So, tonight after dinner, I got some energy, the first amount of any energy since my procedures this past Monday. I needed an outlet, so I decided to tackle the rearset. In hindsight, I should have waited untill I was more clear headed. I still feel like I'm in a fog with my body healing. And then this happened. I cut it, welded three sides removed the master cylinder and while welding the fourth and final side, I put too much heat into it and...we have meltyness. Oops. Looks like I'm going to Speedy Metals tomorrow to pick up a 1/4" sheet of 6061 aluminum. I am glad I made a template before I even started cutting anything. It's an easy fix, just takes time. At least it's a small part.
#302
Now you can't see it. Well, most of it anyways.
I polished it up a little to help it match the rest of the rearset. On the bike this master cylinder comes from, it is rotated 180 degrees. After putting it all together, I realized that it would in fact be possible to mount it 180 degrees. I will see how this works out first. In this configuration, if a resevoir extension is needed to make the reservoir bigger, then I will forgo that resevoir extension and remake the mount so it sits 180 degrees from how you see it in the pictures. That way the top of the resevoir will be flat and parallel to the ground, like it was on the bike it came from. Then, I can get my rear brake line made.
I need help from you guys with one question. In the picture below, it shows that the brake arm is slightly off (~1/8") from being right below the master cylinder. I noticed that the stock rear master cylinder and this new one both have a little movement in the shafts. Is it okay to have it this far off? Will it wear out seals faster? If I have to fix this, then I will remake the mount and flip the master cylinder 180 degrees.
I polished it up a little to help it match the rest of the rearset. On the bike this master cylinder comes from, it is rotated 180 degrees. After putting it all together, I realized that it would in fact be possible to mount it 180 degrees. I will see how this works out first. In this configuration, if a resevoir extension is needed to make the reservoir bigger, then I will forgo that resevoir extension and remake the mount so it sits 180 degrees from how you see it in the pictures. That way the top of the resevoir will be flat and parallel to the ground, like it was on the bike it came from. Then, I can get my rear brake line made.
I need help from you guys with one question. In the picture below, it shows that the brake arm is slightly off (~1/8") from being right below the master cylinder. I noticed that the stock rear master cylinder and this new one both have a little movement in the shafts. Is it okay to have it this far off? Will it wear out seals faster? If I have to fix this, then I will remake the mount and flip the master cylinder 180 degrees.
#303
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
#305
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Now that I decided to run the master cylinder the way it is without rotating it, then it will get filled in, filed down and polished like the rest. Yeah, it's bugging me to. It's not finished!
#306
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I decided to flip the rear master cylinder. Yes, final decision! I figured if I'm going to do it, I may as well do it right. Also, doing it this way, I know that I won't have to get a resevoir extension.
I'm going to use a 1.5" dia. 1/4" thick wall aluminum tube (the one pictured is just to see if it would work) and slice it in half lengthwise. Weld it to the rearset, and make tabs with holes on the other side for the master cylinder. I'm picking up the aluminum tube from Speedy Metals tomorrow, so there will be a final update with that tomorrow I hope.
Also, I had a rear brake caliper from a Triumph Daytona and what do you know, it is exactly the same as the stock Nissin caliper, but black. Saves me from having to paint the stock gold caliper. The Triumph Daytona caliper cleaned up very nicely.
I have a brand new EBC kevlar clutch kit (w/heavy duty springs) sitting here, so I decided to use it. It's been soaking in oil for the past couple days and I'm installing that tonight.
I'm going to use a 1.5" dia. 1/4" thick wall aluminum tube (the one pictured is just to see if it would work) and slice it in half lengthwise. Weld it to the rearset, and make tabs with holes on the other side for the master cylinder. I'm picking up the aluminum tube from Speedy Metals tomorrow, so there will be a final update with that tomorrow I hope.
Also, I had a rear brake caliper from a Triumph Daytona and what do you know, it is exactly the same as the stock Nissin caliper, but black. Saves me from having to paint the stock gold caliper. The Triumph Daytona caliper cleaned up very nicely.
I have a brand new EBC kevlar clutch kit (w/heavy duty springs) sitting here, so I decided to use it. It's been soaking in oil for the past couple days and I'm installing that tonight.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 05-04-2016 at 11:59 PM.
#307
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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#309
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#311
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Got a lot done today. Got the lower 954RR tripple modified and painted. Also painted the upper tripple and installed the tripples on the frame. I also painted the clutch and custom chain cover. I decided to remove the bypass nipple and weld up the hole from both the water pump cover (which needs to be repainted) and thermostat housing (which was also painted and had the superfluous nipple removed). I'll weld those up tomorrow. I had to repaint the oil pan, because I accidentally got acetone on it and didn't know. It made a mess of the original paint job.
I also had to modify the CBR600 mount for the steering stabilizer. I then drilled and tapped the holes. I'll paint that mount tomorrow.
I also ordered the rear brake line which was 17" long.
I also got a four row oil cooler. I'll cut and weld the fitting this coming week.
I also had to modify the CBR600 mount for the steering stabilizer. I then drilled and tapped the holes. I'll paint that mount tomorrow.
I also ordered the rear brake line which was 17" long.
I also got a four row oil cooler. I'll cut and weld the fitting this coming week.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 05-07-2016 at 08:32 PM.
#314
SLOWWWW down there bud... I want you to straighten every fin on that cooler and throw some BBQ/stove paint on that *****!!!
LOL
Luckily I'm on vaca next week so I may be able to get mine running by the end of next week. We might both be able to throw ours in the June VTROM
LOL
Luckily I'm on vaca next week so I may be able to get mine running by the end of next week. We might both be able to throw ours in the June VTROM
#316
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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SLOWWWW down there bud... I want you to straighten every fin on that cooler and throw some BBQ/stove paint on that *****!!!
LOL
Luckily I'm on vaca next week so I may be able to get mine running by the end of next week. We might both be able to throw ours in the June VTROM
LOL
Luckily I'm on vaca next week so I may be able to get mine running by the end of next week. We might both be able to throw ours in the June VTROM
If I get the bike together in time, I might throw it in the hat for VTROTM. I won't have time to paint the body work before my upcoming Memorial Day weekend trip. That's the only thing that is bothering me right now.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 05-10-2016 at 11:22 AM.
#319
Come on Crux Maaaaaaaaaaaaate,
Get it on the road!
It's been a long journey and the brethren are waiting with baited breath to see it finished!
Good luck, can't wait.
Crux,
I know you have seen my thread where a DB1 is visiting the cave yeh?
The other day I told the owner that I was going to copy the frame and make a VTR 1000 motor fit into it.( I reckon it could be done, and I'd love to do it just to give the Bim and Duc owners the *****)
The expression on her face was priceless. The arch insult putting a Japanese motor in the Bimota frame that was made for a Ducati engine.
I reckon it would go like stink!
Hope your New Build goes great, now hurry up !
Get it on the road!
It's been a long journey and the brethren are waiting with baited breath to see it finished!
Good luck, can't wait.
Crux,
I know you have seen my thread where a DB1 is visiting the cave yeh?
The other day I told the owner that I was going to copy the frame and make a VTR 1000 motor fit into it.( I reckon it could be done, and I'd love to do it just to give the Bim and Duc owners the *****)
The expression on her face was priceless. The arch insult putting a Japanese motor in the Bimota frame that was made for a Ducati engine.
I reckon it would go like stink!
Hope your New Build goes great, now hurry up !
#321
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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I'm trying to get it done, but life has been getting in the way. The engine is still sitting on the floor. I put new seals in the valve covers, disassembled the starter for primmer & paint and... that's about it. That's why I haven't updated this with any pictures.
Today, I hope to get the frame on the engine when the wife gets home. Trying to install the frame on a nicely painted engine by myself would result in unwanted scratches. Once the frame is one the engine, I can lift it all in the air with an engine hoist and then install the forks, swingarm and kickstand. I'll hopefully then have a bike standing on its own soon.
Today, I hope to get the frame on the engine when the wife gets home. Trying to install the frame on a nicely painted engine by myself would result in unwanted scratches. Once the frame is one the engine, I can lift it all in the air with an engine hoist and then install the forks, swingarm and kickstand. I'll hopefully then have a bike standing on its own soon.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 05-11-2016 at 02:35 PM.
#323
CRUX, I hear you about life getting in the way! I am so sick of clients calling me to do work for them! Damn it don't they understand riding season is here and I have a bike to finish????
#324
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I got the frame mounted and torqued down to spec. I got the kickstand mounted along with the brackets for the rear shock. Lifting it in the air will have to wait untill tomorrow.
I'm not sure how this happened, but I'm thinking some of the blast media that was used for powder coating got into my lower bearing on the tripples. I cleaned the ever living heck out of the frame inside and out when I got it back from powdercoating too. I used soapy water, Simple Green and compressed air with the frame at all different angles. There must have been one little granule and it found its way into the lower bearing. I was going to install the front end, but now I think I'll have to replace that bearing. Turning it back and forth sounds absolutely horrible. Now I have to order another bearing and wait for that to show up. Dangit!
USPS shows my custom rear brake line should be here tomorrow. So, at least I can get the rear together.
Ignore the frame sliders. I still need to reapaint those.
I'm not sure how this happened, but I'm thinking some of the blast media that was used for powder coating got into my lower bearing on the tripples. I cleaned the ever living heck out of the frame inside and out when I got it back from powdercoating too. I used soapy water, Simple Green and compressed air with the frame at all different angles. There must have been one little granule and it found its way into the lower bearing. I was going to install the front end, but now I think I'll have to replace that bearing. Turning it back and forth sounds absolutely horrible. Now I have to order another bearing and wait for that to show up. Dangit!
USPS shows my custom rear brake line should be here tomorrow. So, at least I can get the rear together.
Ignore the frame sliders. I still need to reapaint those.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 05-12-2016 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Repaint has an "a"
#328
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I know! Getting excited knowing that I can fire this thing up as soon as I complete it.
Oh yeah, I decided to take that bottom bearing from the tripple and put it in my parts washer. I cleaned the heck out of it and what do you ya know, no more noise! So I filled it with synthetic grease and she moves just like new. I think I dodged that one. We will see when I get it on the road, but I really think it is okay.
I also spent some time cleaning my Ohlins shock. I also fixed the very fine threads on mine. I had some galling and small amounts of stringy metal coming from it. It was from a nick in the threads causing some issues. So, I used a small "V" file to correct the threads. The adjuster now moves up and and down nicely. I'm going to install the Ohlins shock and the front wheel tonight. I'll have a roller in a couple hours!
Oh yeah, I decided to take that bottom bearing from the tripple and put it in my parts washer. I cleaned the heck out of it and what do you ya know, no more noise! So I filled it with synthetic grease and she moves just like new. I think I dodged that one. We will see when I get it on the road, but I really think it is okay.
I also spent some time cleaning my Ohlins shock. I also fixed the very fine threads on mine. I had some galling and small amounts of stringy metal coming from it. It was from a nick in the threads causing some issues. So, I used a small "V" file to correct the threads. The adjuster now moves up and and down nicely. I'm going to install the Ohlins shock and the front wheel tonight. I'll have a roller in a couple hours!
#330
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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Three hours later, BAM! I got myself a roller
One thing that is bothering me. I found a M6x65 bolt. It has some black paint that is flaking off the head, so that leads me to believe it might be from one of the engine covers from my spare engine. I sure hope it is. As long as it is not from the inside of my new engine, I don't care.
One thing that is bothering me. I found a M6x65 bolt. It has some black paint that is flaking off the head, so that leads me to believe it might be from one of the engine covers from my spare engine. I sure hope it is. As long as it is not from the inside of my new engine, I don't care.