please verify my chain selection
01-14-2014, 10:16 AM
#1
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please verify my chain selection
I don't want to be one of the guys that finds a good deal and ends up wrecking and/or tearing things up. I found a RK520XSO-102 link for $82. It is an X-ring style with the rivet type master link. This will be for a stock geared bike. I know some brands are junk. Is this one? Lets hear the experiences/opinions please. Thanks, Tim
01-14-2014, 11:02 AM
#3
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Location: Rome, GA
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Please don't put a 520 chain and sprockets on your bike (the bike stock has 530) I have 520 chain and sprockets on my race bike, but NEVER would I consider putting them on a bike with the power and torque the VTR has. I wouldn't even put a 520 chain on a 750 or a newer 600.
My street yzf600r ate an RK 520 chain and sprocket kit in 4000 miles (back in 05).. and when I say ate, the chain broke 5 teeth off the alum. rear sprocket and the chain snapped leaving a redlight hard.. on a 600 that was designed in 94.
They look like a great deal at first, weight savings, cheaper, but in the long run a good 530 chain you pay $20 or $30 more for will last 4-6 times longer than that 520 will put up with.
For the record I was VERY hard on that chain and sprocket set but I did regularly check tension and the teeth of the sprockets (and clean and lube every ride), I was also a year round rider in NY and I think the heat/cold cycles (it was winter time when it gave way) took their toll on the sprocket as well. There was no obvious indication that the sprocket was about to let go.
My street yzf600r ate an RK 520 chain and sprocket kit in 4000 miles (back in 05).. and when I say ate, the chain broke 5 teeth off the alum. rear sprocket and the chain snapped leaving a redlight hard.. on a 600 that was designed in 94.
They look like a great deal at first, weight savings, cheaper, but in the long run a good 530 chain you pay $20 or $30 more for will last 4-6 times longer than that 520 will put up with.
For the record I was VERY hard on that chain and sprocket set but I did regularly check tension and the teeth of the sprockets (and clean and lube every ride), I was also a year round rider in NY and I think the heat/cold cycles (it was winter time when it gave way) took their toll on the sprocket as well. There was no obvious indication that the sprocket was about to let go.
01-14-2014, 01:33 PM
#4
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Location: Victoria, Australia (Bottom south east corner)
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I agree. Only use a 530 chain/sprocket set.
The OEM set up on my Bandit 1250S is an RK 530 and its still going strong at 36,000km so there's nothing wrong with RK. DID is another good brand too.
The OEM set up on my Bandit 1250S is an RK 530 and its still going strong at 36,000km so there's nothing wrong with RK. DID is another good brand too.
01-14-2014, 01:56 PM
#5
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Nothing wrong with a high quality 520 on the vtr, but stay away from aluminum sprockets if you have any intention of getting high miles out of the setup. I had a 520 setup on my previous superhawk that saw double duty as a track and street bike for years. Just my .02
01-14-2014, 02:55 PM
#7
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So, how is this one? RKM-530XSOZ1-108
SPECIFIED LINKS: 102 links
REPLACEMENT CHAIN: DID 50ZVM
RK50LFOZ2
or a 530 x-ring chain. And worthwhile to change at the same time both sprockets.
Last edited by Wicky; 01-14-2014 at 02:57 PM.
01-14-2014, 06:41 PM
#8
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I agree with this, worn sprockets can reduce the life of a new chain because of the added wear from the slop generated between the teeth of the sprockets as they wear down, while this effect may be minimal its still worthwhile to replace everything to me as the chain is the most expensive part of the shebang
01-14-2014, 07:35 PM
#9
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This. A top of the line 520 chain will last a long time on the VTR.
01-15-2014, 09:43 AM
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I'm not familiar with the x-ring chains. I'm guessing there won't be an issue with removing links on an x-ring chain. Summit didn't have an option for a 102 link chain. Only reason for buying from Summit is because I have gift cards for there. I'm getting steel sprockets because I don't care about performance, just reliability. I'd like to go another 30k without changing again. I searched posts on changing the chain with out splitting it. Seems like it shouldn't be too bad. For a tool that may only get used once or twice, I can't see spending the money for the rivet tool. This will be my first time changing a chain/sprockets on a street bike so I might be posting again here with stupid questions. Thanks, Tim
Hey 98, you going to Timonium this year? It's been a while man. After the chain/sprocket replacement, we need to get another ride together.
Hey 98, you going to Timonium this year? It's been a while man. After the chain/sprocket replacement, we need to get another ride together.
01-15-2014, 10:07 AM
#13
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I searched posts on changing the chain with out splitting it. Seems like it shouldn't be too bad. For a tool that may only get used once or twice, I can't see spending the money for the rivet tool. This will be my first time changing a chain/sprockets on a street bike so I might be posting again here with stupid questions. Thanks, Tim
Hey 98, you going to Timonium this year? It's been a while man. After the chain/sprocket replacement, we need to get another ride together.
Hey 98, you going to Timonium this year? It's been a while man. After the chain/sprocket replacement, we need to get another ride together.
01-15-2014, 10:48 AM
#14
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Many of the seasoned motorcycle mechanics I know use pliers and a punch to flare the the pin.
01-15-2014, 10:51 AM
#15
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The chain on this bike can be removed/installed without cutting it. It slides over the swingarm. So you can even take a new chain to a shop and have them rivet the 102 link length together and bring it back to your bike.
01-15-2014, 10:59 AM
#16
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To take off the old endless chain you can simply take remove the rear wheel and take off the footpeg hanger attached by the swing arm nut then the chain will come off due to the VTR's semi-pivotless frame design.
Installing a new endless chain is the reverse, and remember to retorque the swingarm nut up to spec.
You can take the 108 link chain to a workshop and ask them to take off the surplus links and rivet it all up for you (not in a mobius loop!). As this all has to reliably handle transferring 100 odd horsies from the engine to the rear wheel if you don't feel confident in any of this take it to a shop to have it done.
However with care, a few basic tools and following the manual it can be done. www.vtr1000.org • View topic - VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF
Installing a new endless chain is the reverse, and remember to retorque the swingarm nut up to spec.
You can take the 108 link chain to a workshop and ask them to take off the surplus links and rivet it all up for you (not in a mobius loop!). As this all has to reliably handle transferring 100 odd horsies from the engine to the rear wheel if you don't feel confident in any of this take it to a shop to have it done.
However with care, a few basic tools and following the manual it can be done. www.vtr1000.org • View topic - VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF
01-15-2014, 11:13 AM
#17
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Western NY
Posts: 347
To take off the old endless chain you can simply take remove the rear wheel and take off the footpeg hanger attached by the swing arm nut then the chain will come off due to the VTR's semi-pivotless frame design.
Installing a new endless chain is the reverse, and remember to retorque the swingarm nut up to spec.
You can take the 108 link chain to a workshop and ask them to take off the surplus links and rivet it all up for you (not in a mobius loop!). As this all has to reliably handle transferring 100 odd horsies from the engine to the rear wheel if you don't feel confident in any of this take it to a shop to have it done.
However with care, a few basic tools and following the manual it can be done. www.vtr1000.org • View topic - VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF
Installing a new endless chain is the reverse, and remember to retorque the swingarm nut up to spec.
You can take the 108 link chain to a workshop and ask them to take off the surplus links and rivet it all up for you (not in a mobius loop!). As this all has to reliably handle transferring 100 odd horsies from the engine to the rear wheel if you don't feel confident in any of this take it to a shop to have it done.
However with care, a few basic tools and following the manual it can be done. www.vtr1000.org • View topic - VTR1000F (Superhawk) Firestorm Service Manual PDF
01-15-2014, 01:54 PM
#18
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That was my plan. Already did my homework on that. I mentioned this to the mechanic at the local dealer and he looked at me like
. Pretty bad when the knowledge on a forum is more reliable than the dealer that sold it. Thanks again guys. Sounds like the last chain I listed is good since I haven't heard anything bad yet. First time I'm going at my bike with tools in 3 years of owning it (minus the chin fairing to change oil). Not bad. Thanks, Tim
01-17-2014, 01:32 AM
#20
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Whatever you do use a rivet link, not a split.
I lost a chain once due to a mechanic splitting my chain and fitting a split link when he put a new back tyre on my Z1R MKII a long time ago.
From that day on I have never used a split link and only ever let someone touch my bike when it gets new tyres.
Even then I just take the wheels in, no one touches my chain except me!!!
Just my 2c worth, but when the chain let go it scared the you know what out of me and made a mess out of the crankcase as well.
A very expensive excersise that the bike shop concerned wouldn't admit to.
These guys lost the sale of 7 bikes through that and are now closed as they went broke.
As far as chains and sprockets are concerned do it once and do it right.
I am not far off converting to a 520 set up and the sprockets will be steel.
I lost a chain once due to a mechanic splitting my chain and fitting a split link when he put a new back tyre on my Z1R MKII a long time ago.
From that day on I have never used a split link and only ever let someone touch my bike when it gets new tyres.
Even then I just take the wheels in, no one touches my chain except me!!!
Just my 2c worth, but when the chain let go it scared the you know what out of me and made a mess out of the crankcase as well.
A very expensive excersise that the bike shop concerned wouldn't admit to.
These guys lost the sale of 7 bikes through that and are now closed as they went broke.
As far as chains and sprockets are concerned do it once and do it right.
I am not far off converting to a 520 set up and the sprockets will be steel.
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