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KB Article #4 - Throttle Position Sensor

Old 04-08-2010, 08:18 AM
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Just set the tps. I found using a dremel to slot the old bolts was easiet. I tried drilling a small hole and useing an easy out but that didn't work. My tps was set to 818. I was only able to get It to 588 and it wouldn't turn anymore. its shitty out so I haven't ridden it but revving it at idle she feels a lot more snappy. Of course that was with the airbox off so it was sucking In a lot of air so ill go for a ride hopefully tomorrow
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by uchi View Post
Just set the tps. I found using a dremel to slot the old bolts was easiet. I tried drilling a small hole and useing an easy out but that didn't work. My tps was set to 818. I was only able to get It to 588 and it wouldn't turn anymore. its shitty out so I haven't ridden it but revving it at idle she feels a lot more snappy. Of course that was with the airbox off so it was sucking In a lot of air so ill go for a ride hopefully tomorrow
you weren't able to go any lower because you need to bend the lower/left tab slightly to give you enough adjustment.
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Old 04-15-2010, 04:29 AM
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Yeah that makes sense now. Maybe ill yank it off again this week and bend her down. Thanks

Originally Posted by nath981 View Post
you weren't able to go any lower because you need to bend the lower/left tab slightly to give you enough adjustment.
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Old 04-16-2010, 10:39 AM
  #34  
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I've been absolutely amazed at the difference in response and overall performance in the low end. Previously, I was having carb backfires between 3-4k rpm. Dialed in tps at 502 ohms. Problem largely solved. Still some minor tweaks need to be taken care of since the installation of a DJ stage one kit, but WOW!! I would strongly advise anyone who hasn't done this to do so. Just one thing i don't get. Why do they leave the factory so far out of spec? I know that question has been asked before and there is no good answer, it's just one of those things that makes you scratch your head.
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Old 04-16-2010, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by steve29 View Post
I've been absolutely amazed at the difference in response and overall performance in the low end. Previously, I was having carb backfires between 3-4k rpm. Dialed in tps at 502 ohms. Problem largely solved. Still some minor tweaks need to be taken care of since the installation of a DJ stage one kit, but WOW!! I would strongly advise anyone who hasn't done this to do so. Just one thing i don't get. Why do they leave the factory so far out of spec? I know that question has been asked before and there is no good answer, it's just one of those things that makes you scratch your head.
Well they set it from the factory for best emissions. So when they fire it up on the engine dyno, they adjust it to whatever number they are looking for on the EGA not for best performance, that is the reason for the shear bolts on the TPS.
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:06 PM
  #36  
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I'll buy that. Makes sense to me. Thanks man.
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
Well they set it from the factory for best emissions. So when they fire it up on the engine dyno, they adjust it to whatever number they are looking for on the EGA not for best performance, that is the reason for the shear bolts on the TPS.
That is pretty much the universal answer for anything that seems so obviously off from the factory. Fortunately, most of it is easy to fix.
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
Well they set it from the factory for best emissions. So when they fire it up on the engine dyno, they adjust it to whatever number they are looking for on the EGA not for best performance, that is the reason for the shear bolts on the TPS.
how come you know everything? hahaha

I got one for ya: why did my tps work perfectly when it was turned in the wrong direction and registered 2000+ ohms?
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:47 PM
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"how come you know everything? hahaha

I got one for ya: why did my tps work perfectly when it was turned in the wrong direction and registered 2000+ ohms?"
Maybe, it was one of a series of self compensating errors?
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:51 PM
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Well, since 2000 ohms is roughly equivalent of half throttle or so, it just means that your bike was running with the ignition advanced to that point at idle... And I'm guessing that the value at wide open throttle where of the scale so the ECU would likely just treat that as the highest value in the table... So while it's far from optimal in the setup, it's not really a problem...
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nath981 View Post
how come you know everything? hahaha

I got one for ya: why did my tps work perfectly when it was turned in the wrong direction and registered 2000+ ohms?
Owned one for almost 13yrs now.....

If you mean, why did the bike run perfectly? Well I bet it was down on power a bit. You can completely unplug the sensor (or somehow mange to miss plugging it back it....... oops) and the bike will run fine, it will just be a little "flat". Pull over to see if you can figure out why the bike is quite right, find unplugged TPS connection, hook it up and like magic the bike runs perfectly.... don't ask me how I know.....

If the input value is outside of the parameters the ECU is looking for then it goes to a default map, which will keep the bike running but it won't be near as crisp in throttle responce.
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:35 PM
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thanks for the info guys. Somehow I just got it in my head that it should be turned clockwise and since I couldn't hold everything and get a reading that made sense. I really shouldn't be allowed to own an analog multimeter.

So i just went by feel, and you know how it is, sometimes it just feels really good. hahaha. And that was to turn it clockwise till I could feel the spring engaging and then held it there and used a selftapping screw to hold it there. Started it up and it never missed a lick, no more backfiring, stalling, sputtering, just smoothness. "What a ****** hero super superhawk mechanic". Ran like that till we were doing steves' and he said he remembered that it should be turned counterclockwise. I couldn't believe it and it was only my extreme humility that let me accept this possibility.hahaha.

Seriously, it helps to have another person to check you, I mean, check on me. Now we're gonna help another Hawk owner steve met the other day. I'm thinkin of putting a sign on the garage, maybe something like "trial and error mod shop-pa nub"(that's eddie murphy term for "free". hahaha

Last edited by nath981; 04-20-2010 at 04:21 AM.
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Old 04-28-2010, 06:46 PM
  #43  
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PROCEDURE UPDATE:

There are some reports of the TPS popping off when the mounting screws are removed. To avoid this, do them one at a time. Remove the first old screw, then put in the new replacement screw BEFORE removing the second old screw. This will prevent the TPS from popping off.

JB
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Old 05-31-2010, 04:15 PM
  #44  
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TPS

Hey guys, I've finally gotten around to changing the TPS on my bike, I've been following the guide so far without any problems, but I've run into a wall. I've gotten the airbox assembly completely off, and next would be to lift the carbs and take off the TPS, but I can't figure out how to lift the carbs. If anyone can help me out here I would appreciate it, cause I'll feel awful if I did all this work, and didn't even get to adjust the TPS (Plus I need to go back to hoboken some time tonight!).

-Mike
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Old 05-31-2010, 05:07 PM
  #45  
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you do NOT need to remove or lift the carbs to adjust the TPS. Use a dremel to remove (grind off) the bottom screw if need be.

Tell Frank that we said thanks.
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Old 05-31-2010, 05:11 PM
  #46  
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Ok, so in that case I would just need new bolts to replace these grinded off ones?? I'm trying to grind off the bolt right now, with a rotary saw dremel tip, still having some trouble....

Last edited by Gorwin64; 05-31-2010 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:46 PM
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i don't see the issue with undoing the two carb clamps and lifting the carbs up for a better angle. like resident said not ness, but easier i think. you can also get a small chisel and tap in loose, just don't slip and hit the tps sensor.
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:12 PM
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I used a dremel on the bottom when the top was removed the stub from the lower came out with my fingers. It may also be possible to thread the stub through the bracket. I'm a little hazy as it was 5 years ago. I know I didn't need the easy out or a left handed drill bit.
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:34 PM
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I have a pencil Dremel which made it pretty easy.
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:37 PM
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The advice regarding using a larger drill bit than the 5mm bolt is for removing the head. It works wonders. The next time you have a bolt strip (outer corners on hex, inner on socket), center punch and go with a larger drill bit(compared to threads, not head). When you have gotten all the way through the head, it starts to spin. Remove head and turn bolt out with vise grip or by hand. seems to work quite well.
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Old 05-31-2010, 11:07 PM
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And I would guess, this is what a "pencil Dremel" would be... It makes working in tight places quite easy...
Attached Thumbnails KB Article #4 - Throttle Position Sensor-r00301v3.jpg  
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Tweety View Post
And I would guess, this is what a "pencil Dremel" would be... It makes working in tight places quite easy...
that's weird looking. Mine is just an extension cable a couple feet long that accepts bits, cutting wheels, grinders, etc., and is powered by the dremel at the other end. You can hold it like a pencil. It's so much better in terms of access, accuracy and control that its never been disconnected since I first installed it years ago. In fact, i had forgotten that it was an attachment. hahaha
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:58 AM
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They come in a couple of different shapes... Mine is smaller than the on in the pic... And yeah, I hardly ever disconnect it...
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Old 06-01-2010, 09:57 AM
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ok, question about the TPS. On the back of it is the plastic thottle guide and the metal spring keeping it in tension. When I took off the TPS to put some wires on for easy access with the voltmeter, that whole back part came off. It looks like the plastic backing is supposed to be connected to the back of the TPS, like they rotate together. Does this mean I need a new TPS, or can it be fixed?
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:20 AM
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I really doubt you can fix that... Sorry, but it seems you are going shopping...
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:36 AM
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That was my fear... so far I've found it for $101 and $87 at the sites listed below... Let me know if you guys know of any good sites for buying oem parts.

www.cheapcycleparts.com
www.bikebandit.com
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Old 06-01-2010, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Gorwin64 View Post
That was my fear... so far I've found it for $101 and $87 at the sites listed below... Let me know if you guys know of any good sites for buying oem parts.

www.cheapcycleparts.com
www.bikebandit.com
you might want to look at buying a set of carbs that includes the TPS.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_kw=vtr&...essories&_ipg=
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:11 AM
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wow, thats absurd that I could buy the whole carb set for less than that damn sensor... the only problem there is again I don't have the confidence of working on the carbs, this is all new to me
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:15 AM
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If you take things slowly and methodically it shouldn't be a problem...
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Gorwin64 View Post
wow, thats absurd that I could buy the whole carb set for less than that damn sensor... the only problem there is again I don't have the confidence of working on the carbs, this is all new to me
you could remove the TPS and sell the carbs and recoup your pesos.
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