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I have a set of bafflectomized cans collecting dust in the rafters of my garage. they are in good condition, except for having their guts ripped out
I'll sell them cheap ($50 +shipping for both), if you want to keep your stock ones original.
I would recommend a used set of aftermarket canisters over the bafflectomy.
This procedure requires a level of mechanical ability and you may screw it up. I take no responsibility for the effectiveness of this procedure and by doing it you assume all responsibility for the consequences. Now, on with the show...
This is what the VTR1000F exhaust can looks like if you were to cut it in half long-ways.
The inner pipes are perforated and the exhaust gasses flow through the holes. Note the weld beads and their location. This design is quiet (too quiet for many) and sort of chokes the engine as it’s trying to exhaust the spent gas. In other words, it sucks power from your engine. On the next few pages we will perform what is affectionately known as a “bafflectomy” on your stock exhaust cans.
Here are some sound clips of stock pipes, partial bafflectomies (holes drilled in the baffle wall) and Staintunes.
What you want to do now is to buy a high quality hole saw just slightly smaller than the outer can tip and also deep enough so that it will cut the wall before touching the inner pipe. You want to get one that’ll cut through steel. You may want to get some duct tape and tape the inside of the outer tube to protect it. Now cut a hole in the rear baffle wall. The hole saw will probably chatter a bit.
Now that the holes are cut, you want to beat the crap out of the end of the can to break the welds. Place a piece of wood on the inner pipe to minimize the possibility of you missing and denting the lip of the outer pipe.
In order to remove the inner pipe, you need to enlarge the hole in the baffle wall enough to allow the weld bead through. Use a long flat headed screwdriver and a hammer for this. You may need to enlarge the hole in several places before you will be able to get it out.
Once you’re done you will want to remove the duct tape and clean up the sharp cut edges with a file or Dremel tool. You're done! Go for a ride!
User comments NZred : Wed Aug 11, 2004 12:53 am Re: [ KB ] BafflectomyI altered mine with a long 3/8' steel rod, used as a punch. The additon of two extra internal holes helped a little.. .. four holes that ruptured between the internal baffle tubes was better,.. with improved fuel economy.
But when a serious assault was made on the outlet tube,.. I lost power and torque to a very noticable degree. ( It was gutless )
After having the original internals replaced with a straight through glass pack muffler I once again had power and an excellent sound. Just a bit lean.
I did need to have a Dyno-Jet kit installed, and now its at 105hp. sckomar : Thu Mar 03, 2005 6:45 pm Re: [ KB ] BafflectomyI performed the bafflectomy per Greg's recomendations and I found it fairly easy to do. Infact, I believe I had it done in around 15 minutes. I think a jet kit would definitely help it now, but mine seems to be running great and the sound is much improved over stock. Do not do this modification unless you want to be noticed, it is much much louder than stock.ericsuperhawk : Mon Mar 28, 2005 3:18 am Re: [ KB ] BafflectomyBack in "the day" we did these bafflectomy on bikes by just pouring a bit of carosene into the pipe and "boom" lighting that sucka and burning out a bit of the baffle. Now days stuff is made so cheap it would probably blow the pipe appart. Good article though and good pics to support your idea.
Has this caused any mid range loss on anybody?sckomar : Mon Mar 28, 2005 9:08 am Re: [ KB ] Bafflectomyit softens up the midrange a little bit, barely noticable. It does not need a jet kit for this mod alone, but if you put a filter on also it would definitley benefit from the kit.ericsuperhawk : Wed Mar 30, 2005 4:25 am O.K. thanks for the reply on that. I did that to my hurricain year ago. I did the "pipe punch" and when with a high flow airbox. It made for a nice sound, just a hair louder then stock, and it gave me just a hair more get up and go.oicdn : Fri Jan 06, 2006 12:27 am So all you're doing is taking a hole saw, cutting the first "baffle plate"...
then, taking a screw driver to wiggle around the baffle tube/plate a bit, then taking a hammer with some wood and just beating the crap out of it till the spot welds break?
Just making sure before I goto start this project.
Did you leave the mufflers on the bike or did you remove them?
I think I have about twelve holes drilled in each of mine. I noticed that the amount of air (at idle at least) is very even spread between the inner pipe and the holes around it. Throttle on it's a good sound for freebies, but on decel it's absolutely great! It sounds like a very big angry bear!
Normal high quality drill bit... nothing fancy... Altough I can recommend using a punch to make a pilot mark if you want the holes nicely symmetrical...
I did this mod today, not very hard at all. One thing that I highly recommend is after drilling the hole with the hole saw, get a long screwdriver and beat some holes through the baffle plate around the baffle before trying to beat the baffle with the piece of wood. This makes beating the baffle free much easier. I already had about 8 - 1/2" holes drilled around the baffle which made the exhaust alot louder/deeper sounding. I dont know how much louder the SH is now because my battery is dead.
ok so will removing the baffle actually hurt power? ive heard both now. id like to just remove the baffle and not touch the actual guts of my pipes. just like to wake the bike up a little and give her a bit more of a growl
So i am hearing different answers with every thread i read... Do you have to re-jet or not when you have done the Bafflectomy, even if you drill the holes in the wall or pull the whole baffle out??? Whats the go? Why do poeple say yes and others say no??? Cheers, Tony.
So i am hearing different answers with every thread i read... Do you have to re-jet or not when you have done the Bafflectomy, even if you drill the holes in the wall or pull the whole baffle out??? Whats the go? Why do poeple say yes and others say no??? Cheers, Tony.
No you do not have to.
Even a fully stock bike can be improved with either a mild jetting or a needle shim, but a bafflectomy isn't likely to affect anything other than the amount of noise the bike makes.
Hey Hawkrider, is there a way to repost the pics for this thread? This seems like the most easy to follow link (if the pics were there) and I would love to do this to my stock pipes.
I did the 8 holes and loved it, but now I want louder. But im curious if im going to get a cleaner sound with doing the full bafflectomy (which is what im looking for) I want louder and cleaner. I know obviously a set of Two Bros would be what im looking for but cant afford that lol
As long as I dont need to rejet after a full bafflectomy, then ill be doing it. But it seems like general consensus is you dont need to, just that rejetting is better to do but not neccessary. Guess I just answered myself lol
I have a set of bafflectomized cans collecting dust in the rafters of my garage. they are in good condition, except for having their guts ripped out
I'll sell them cheap ($50 +shipping for both), if you want to keep your stock ones original.
I would recommend a used set of aftermarket canisters over the bafflectomy.
Just a bit lean. 
sckomar : Thu Mar 03, 2005 6:45 pm Re: [ KB ] BafflectomyI performed the bafflectomy per Greg's recomendations and I found it fairly easy to do. Infact, I believe I had it done in around 15 minutes. I think a jet kit would definitely help it now, but mine seems to be running great and the sound is much improved over stock. Do not do this modification unless you want to be noticed, it is much much louder than stock.
lol 
