correct cam lobe position?
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 64
correct cam lobe position?
Can someone tell be the correct cam lobe position, or a pic, when installing the front cly. cam sprokets after re-shiming?
The manual says UP. when i line the FE on the exhaust and FI on the intake, then match the cam shaft holes up,:
the exhaust is upward, but facing forward, about 30 degrees abouve the front edge of the cyl.
the intake in upward, what looks like the same or more above the back edge of the cly. case.
i am a bit nervous about getting the timing correct. It all has been going well so far.
Thanks.
Darren
The manual says UP. when i line the FE on the exhaust and FI on the intake, then match the cam shaft holes up,:
the exhaust is upward, but facing forward, about 30 degrees abouve the front edge of the cyl.
the intake in upward, what looks like the same or more above the back edge of the cly. case.
i am a bit nervous about getting the timing correct. It all has been going well so far.
Thanks.
Darren
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,689
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA, USA
Sounds about right. the exhaust valves open before the intake valves. Just make sure you have the intake cam and exhaust cam identified.
You don't need to remove the cam gears from the cams...
You don't need to remove the cam gears from the cams...
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 347
From: S.Dak USA
When the FT mark on the flywheel is aligned with the index mark,then the FI and FE marks on the cam sprockets must be flush with the cylinder head surface,facing outward. Same for the rear cylinder when the RT mark on the flywheel is aligned....
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 64
The manual instructs to remove the sprockets first. After doing that, it does look like the cams could come out without removal of the sprockets. I want to make sure it is all timed correctly. The manual just says the lobes should be up, when FI & FE are aligned. Does this just mean upWARD and not down on the lifter?
I have the correct cam shafts in place, FT on the fly wheel, FE and FI aligned.
When I rotate the engine by hand, WILL I DEFINITELY HEAR SOMETHING? Or does it not feel smooth or bind if there is a problem.
Is there any other ways to confirm it is done correctly? Before re-assembly?
Thank you.
Darren
I have the correct cam shafts in place, FT on the fly wheel, FE and FI aligned.
When I rotate the engine by hand, WILL I DEFINITELY HEAR SOMETHING? Or does it not feel smooth or bind if there is a problem.
Is there any other ways to confirm it is done correctly? Before re-assembly?
Thank you.
Darren
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 347
From: S.Dak USA
Yes the cam lobes should be in a position away from the lifter (valves closed)When you reassemble,install cams,then the sprockets.I assume your adjusting valve clearance on both both cylinders,so do the front cylinder first.If all the marks are aligned then you will have no trouble. The engine should turn with no problem.If you take out the spark plugs the engine will be much easier to turn. Remember to put a little loc-tite on the cam sprocket bolts....
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 64
Thanks Steve. Good advice.
I only have to do the front cly. 3 of 4. And the rears was okay. I figured since I had the bike so far apart I should finish it.
I have never done valves or timing. I dont want to damage anything AND I don't want to have to take it apart to fix something I might do wrong.
What threw me here is the manual saying up, I take that now meaning just not down on the lifter.
It does make sense:
1. align FT on flywheel as instructed
2. make chain snug on front sprocket and line up FE mark
3. pull snug to rear sprocket and line up FI mark
4. since the bolt holes of the camshaft flanges are 180 degrees apart, there is only one way up; the other would press on the lifter
5. snug chain tensioner
6. spin by hand
Does this sound like I understand?
2 more questions:
A. In #5 above, will the slack come out of the chain on all 3 sides? There does not seem to be a way to measure links between the 3 points. Is it like any other chain, pull snug by hand and adjustment will sure up?
and,
B. when I spin by hand what should I look for, listen for? Good and bad.
Sorry for all of the questions. Very nervous.
Have a good one.
Darren
I only have to do the front cly. 3 of 4. And the rears was okay. I figured since I had the bike so far apart I should finish it.
I have never done valves or timing. I dont want to damage anything AND I don't want to have to take it apart to fix something I might do wrong.
What threw me here is the manual saying up, I take that now meaning just not down on the lifter.
It does make sense:
1. align FT on flywheel as instructed
2. make chain snug on front sprocket and line up FE mark
3. pull snug to rear sprocket and line up FI mark
4. since the bolt holes of the camshaft flanges are 180 degrees apart, there is only one way up; the other would press on the lifter
5. snug chain tensioner
6. spin by hand
Does this sound like I understand?
2 more questions:
A. In #5 above, will the slack come out of the chain on all 3 sides? There does not seem to be a way to measure links between the 3 points. Is it like any other chain, pull snug by hand and adjustment will sure up?
and,
B. when I spin by hand what should I look for, listen for? Good and bad.
Sorry for all of the questions. Very nervous.
Have a good one.
Darren
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 347
From: S.Dak USA
Sounds fine.Just follow the steps carefully in the manual.
1.Align all marks
2.Turn engine 1 turn clockwise,remove accessible cam sprocket bolts.
3.Turn engine 1 turn counter clockwise re-aligning timing marks.
4.Loosen tension on cam chain.
5.Remove remaining cam sprocket bolts.
6.Remove cams.
7.Adjust clearance.
8. Reverse steps for re-assembly.
1.Align all marks
2.Turn engine 1 turn clockwise,remove accessible cam sprocket bolts.
3.Turn engine 1 turn counter clockwise re-aligning timing marks.
4.Loosen tension on cam chain.
5.Remove remaining cam sprocket bolts.
6.Remove cams.
7.Adjust clearance.
8. Reverse steps for re-assembly.
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 347
From: S.Dak USA
One other quick tip.When you remove the last cam sprocket bolts,thread some wire through the sprockets/chain holding the assembly together not allowing the sprockets to drop or move position on the chain.Good luck...
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 210
From: Toronto
I'm glad that you're getting so much help on the board here.
But don't you think it would have been a good idea to pay closer attention to these things when taking the bike apart?
Or at the very least, buy a shop manual?
But don't you think it would have been a good idea to pay closer attention to these things when taking the bike apart?
Or at the very least, buy a shop manual?
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 64
Sorry for all of the posts.
I thought I was following the manual, I do have it. What threw me was where it said cam lobes up. I should have looked more carefully when taking apart, but being my first time doing valves, I was not even sure what to look at.
I have even been taking pics, probably about 50 so far. I find they sometimes help on re-assembly. But I don't think I got one of the cam lobe position.
I do appreciate everones help and I'll try not to ask basic questions.
Darren
I thought I was following the manual, I do have it. What threw me was where it said cam lobes up. I should have looked more carefully when taking apart, but being my first time doing valves, I was not even sure what to look at.
I have even been taking pics, probably about 50 so far. I find they sometimes help on re-assembly. But I don't think I got one of the cam lobe position.
I do appreciate everones help and I'll try not to ask basic questions.
Darren
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