changeing front sprocket
04-22-2009, 07:45 AM
#1
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Squid
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Location: Minnesota USA
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changeing front sprocket
It may sound pretty green but when changeing front sprocket on a 1998 vtr which bollts do i remove i do not want to take somethong apart that is part of the clutch??
04-22-2009, 08:15 AM
#2
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SuperSport
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You could check the Ron Ayers website. There's a fiche there showing which bolts need to be removed. When the countershaft sprocket cover is taken off, there's no pressure holding back the piston in the clutch slave cylinder. Some bleeding may be required when you put the cover back on. There are threads on this site that deal with the issue and with what you have to do to stop the front sprocket from moving when you're removing the bolt holding it on.
04-25-2009, 04:18 PM
#4
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Superstock
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Put bike on stand so the rear wheel is off the ground.Remove the 3 bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder,pull cylinder away from cover and clutch rod.Remove bolts securing sprocket cover,remove cover.
There is one bolt on the primary sprocket with a lock tab.Bend lock tab back.Put a piece of 2x4 through the rear wheel,resting on top of the swingarm,this will "lock" the rear wheel while you loosen the primary sprocket bolt.. counter-clockwise.
Remove rear wheel,chain and sprocket.
Reverse to re-assemble.
Notes:
Always clean sprocket area of any crud.
Never squeeze clutch lever while slave cylinder is out as this will pop the piston out.
Always torque the sprocket bolt.
Good luck!!
There is one bolt on the primary sprocket with a lock tab.Bend lock tab back.Put a piece of 2x4 through the rear wheel,resting on top of the swingarm,this will "lock" the rear wheel while you loosen the primary sprocket bolt.. counter-clockwise.
Remove rear wheel,chain and sprocket.
Reverse to re-assemble.
Notes:
Always clean sprocket area of any crud.
Never squeeze clutch lever while slave cylinder is out as this will pop the piston out.
Always torque the sprocket bolt.
Good luck!!
04-29-2009, 06:01 PM
#6
Squided
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04-30-2009, 03:04 PM
#8
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SuperBike
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If you pull in the clutch lever half way and zip tie it it will actually precent you from having to bleed the system.
I know it sounds Illogical, but it seals the system so gravity cannot push extra fluid into the slave cyl.
I know it sounds Illogical, but it seals the system so gravity cannot push extra fluid into the slave cyl.
05-04-2009, 05:10 AM
#10
ride it out
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unless I did something wrong?
Last edited by nothing; 05-04-2009 at 05:16 AM.
05-04-2009, 04:32 PM
#11
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I did this with 2 zip ties, both broke and brake fluid shot everywhere all over my garage, ceiling, haynes manual, bar controls, hair, mountain bike and floor. didn't have the reservoir cover on to prevent pressure build up in there. LUCKILY, I had a towel over my paint....
unless I did something wrong?
unless I did something wrong?
Pressure buildup? from where and what?! There is no pressure in the reservoir! Never ever, as the fluid enters the clutch cylinder/hose it instead holds less pressure... Since you had no cover on, the zip ties was the one thing holding against the full pressure in the clutch system... normal zip-ties are no match for a hydraulic system as you found out... If the cover had been on, the system had been closed of and the worst case scenario is to have to bleed the clutch... I use a heavy zip-tie or, with little or no chance that it will break... You could use a piece of string instead, less prone to stretch and failure...
If you tie of the clutch lever to the handlebar, then remove the slave cylinder it stays in the same position as it does when you press the clutch to shift, no more pressure in any way than that... The system is meant to handle that...
Since I'm **** I put a small c-clamp snug on the slave cylinder, but not clamping down on it to create more pressure... When assembling just stick it in place, put the bolts in with 2-3 turns so the thread is there... Then put one hand on the cylinder and release the lever and it pops right in there... Just finish up the bolts and done...
Last edited by Tweety; 05-04-2009 at 04:38 PM.
05-05-2009, 01:23 PM
#15
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If the bleeder is closed, and you remove the sprocket cover you only need to push the lever a fraction of its way to seal the port. But I've taken it off many times, and the pressure of the fluid in the lines has not been enough to overcome the friction in the slave cylinder, just hang it up out of the way with a wire or shoelace. Just checked: there is a spring in the slave cylinder which returns the piston, and it will not come out on its own. Just remove the entire sprocket cover whith slave cylinder, and put it out of the way, without stressing or twisting the hose.
05-05-2009, 01:29 PM
#16
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<i>cylinder it stays in the same position as it does when you press the clutch to shift, no more pressure in any way than that...</i>
except it is not pushing on the clutch springs through the clutch-rod. Do not screw with the lever, just remove the sprocket cover, and the return-spring in the slave cylinder will hold the piston in place. The return spring moves the slave cylinder piston back that extra little bit so the throw-out bearing and clutch-rod ends are not under constant friction or load. That's why there must be a bit of "free-play" in a clutch. And the compensating port is why you can't adjust a hydraulic clutch at the lever, like a cable clutch.
Use the procedures in your Haynes. I think their SuperHawk manual is a masterpiece.
except it is not pushing on the clutch springs through the clutch-rod. Do not screw with the lever, just remove the sprocket cover, and the return-spring in the slave cylinder will hold the piston in place. The return spring moves the slave cylinder piston back that extra little bit so the throw-out bearing and clutch-rod ends are not under constant friction or load. That's why there must be a bit of "free-play" in a clutch. And the compensating port is why you can't adjust a hydraulic clutch at the lever, like a cable clutch.
Use the procedures in your Haynes. I think their SuperHawk manual is a masterpiece.
05-05-2009, 01:35 PM
#17
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<i>and brake fluid shot</i>
As the piston in the handle-bar cylinder sweeps past the port, it first "backflows" fluid into the reservoir. If the res. cover is off, and you pump the handle, you can make fluid fly all over. Is that what's going on here?
But then again, I couldn't identify a bad regulator, so my advice is suspect, I admit. Oh, I got a little computer-fan to put on my regulator, to blow cool, fresh, mountain fresh, lemon-scented air on my regulator. (Standard 80mm 12V fan) I also don't talk bad about Honda charging systems around it, hoping we can get off on the right foot. No use having a negative relationship, and those little guys can be vicious, if crossed. I know, I've got a VFR.
As the piston in the handle-bar cylinder sweeps past the port, it first "backflows" fluid into the reservoir. If the res. cover is off, and you pump the handle, you can make fluid fly all over. Is that what's going on here?
But then again, I couldn't identify a bad regulator, so my advice is suspect, I admit. Oh, I got a little computer-fan to put on my regulator, to blow cool, fresh, mountain fresh, lemon-scented air on my regulator. (Standard 80mm 12V fan) I also don't talk bad about Honda charging systems around it, hoping we can get off on the right foot. No use having a negative relationship, and those little guys can be vicious, if crossed. I know, I've got a VFR.
05-05-2009, 03:14 PM
#19
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Location: Skurup, Sweden
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<i>cylinder it stays in the same position as it does when you press the clutch to shift, no more pressure in any way than that...</i>
except it is not pushing on the clutch springs through the clutch-rod. Do not screw with the lever, just remove the sprocket cover, and the return-spring in the slave cylinder will hold the piston in place. The return spring moves the slave cylinder piston back that extra little bit so the throw-out bearing and clutch-rod ends are not under constant friction or load. That's why there must be a bit of "free-play" in a clutch. And the compensating port is why you can't adjust a hydraulic clutch at the lever, like a cable clutch.
Use the procedures in your Haynes. I think their SuperHawk manual is a masterpiece.
except it is not pushing on the clutch springs through the clutch-rod. Do not screw with the lever, just remove the sprocket cover, and the return-spring in the slave cylinder will hold the piston in place. The return spring moves the slave cylinder piston back that extra little bit so the throw-out bearing and clutch-rod ends are not under constant friction or load. That's why there must be a bit of "free-play" in a clutch. And the compensating port is why you can't adjust a hydraulic clutch at the lever, like a cable clutch.
Use the procedures in your Haynes. I think their SuperHawk manual is a masterpiece.
What I meant was in response to nothings post about pressure buildup... There is no more stress on any part in the system than from normal use if you do it right...
Pull the lever a bit more than halfway to the handle bar and tie it off, remove the slave/cover and when assembling put it in place and loosen the lever...
05-06-2009, 07:00 AM
#20
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Wait a minute, Tweety, your an electrical guy; What's that grease you put on the back of the regulator to transfer heat? Isn't there a product like that?
Speaking of regulators and voltage gauges, Kuryakan (sp?) ripped off your LED voltage indicator and it sells for about $30. Saw it in this month's Cycle World Guide and Cruiser Apologia. It's your design, but with a few more bridges (?) and indicates voltage by LED in 2-volt increments. It looks about the right size to stick on a sport-bike instrument panel or dash, as such they have.
Speaking of regulators and voltage gauges, Kuryakan (sp?) ripped off your LED voltage indicator and it sells for about $30. Saw it in this month's Cycle World Guide and Cruiser Apologia. It's your design, but with a few more bridges (?) and indicates voltage by LED in 2-volt increments. It looks about the right size to stick on a sport-bike instrument panel or dash, as such they have.
05-06-2009, 07:07 AM
#21
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Holy Mackeral is that new Honda "Fury" a travesty! It may even have more chrome-plated-plastic than a Virago. I'd like to start a chopper gang with "Furbys", and call it "The Mild Bunch"
When I first saw the two bikes in "Easy Riders" I knew I was looking at the end of civilisation as we knew it. "For this" I asked myself "men died at the Isle of Mann?"
When I first saw the two bikes in "Easy Riders" I knew I was looking at the end of civilisation as we knew it. "For this" I asked myself "men died at the Isle of Mann?"
07-03-2009, 07:13 AM
#22
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Squid
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Paul.
07-03-2009, 07:16 AM
#23
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Squid
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Rattle gun off, 3 squeezes of the rattle gun to tighten. 1 minute for the job maximum
Paul.
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