Don't care about more power. Only want the sound. Don't want to give up ANY mpg.
If I leave the airbox stock can I not rejet? Don't want to damage anything by running it too lean.

 

I put a set of carbon Jardines on without a rejet. Mine runs great. Last year on the dyno, I pulled a 108.6. I get around 125/tank. I'm right lane...

 

I would at least raise the needles .040", get rid of the PAIR system, sync the carbs, raise the idle to 1,300 rpm and re-calibrate the TPS. Then buy sone stiffer for springs, braided SS brake & clutch lines, new rubber and save for a decent shock.

BTW Wolfy, nice numbers but your reaction times suck. What make and model dyno was it? If it was on other than an Eddy Current dyno your number are at least 5% optomistic.

 

Not sure. My RT did suck, first time. My friend warned me of redlights, he ran before, so I was carfull. Still smoked him 3 for 3 (RC51). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_O47RR33Rfg

Sorry MLB, no more thread jackin'!

 

Yup, shim the needles at a minimum. Tweak the mixture screws to 2.25 turns (at sea level). Pair-ectomy and carb sync if you have the time and tools.

 

No sweat, that's cool.

 

Why raise the idle?

And what is the PAIR? I've searched and the links are just posts like this "get rid of the PAIR".

TPS = Throttle position sensor??

Rear spring is fine, front is soft. Rubber is ok for my riding. Brakes could be better, doubt that braided lines really do more than a tiny bit, but probably will eventually, more for the bling factor.
Anything that REALLY helps (short of swapping out)??

 

 

Not sure about the idle.

PAIR is an emissions control that adds fresh air to the exhaust to burn any unburned fuel. If you leave it in place with an aftermarket exhaust (as I have) you end up with a bike that backfires a lot. As in every time you decelerate the bike backfires a bunch of times. (next time I have the tank off I will probably disable PAIR on my bike, but it isn't a huge deal to me as a bit more noise isn't killer)

Yes TPS is the throttle position sensor, it is supposed to be set to 500ohms but for some reason Honda shipped them all set to ~800ohms. The service manual even says it should be 500..

You can find articles on both of these things on Greg's (Hawkrider's) website here: http://www.superhawk996.net/ (under VTR1000F and Performance Mods)

As for the suspension:

If you are over 150lbs the front springs are no where near adequate for aggressive riding (fine for commutes). The cheapest easy option to getting a good handling ride is to send your forks off to Greg (the aforementioned Hawkrider) to get them upgraded with springs and valves. Your other options include Fork Swaps (as I have done), doing the springs and valves yourself, or living with it. If you stick with the stock forks, a fork brace is recommended too.

As for the rear, it's been said once you get the front situated then you realize the limits of the rear. And your options for the rear are to pay through the nose for a Ohins, or Penski (or find one of the super rare Fox twin clickers), get a Wilbers or Hagon for somewhat less, or get Jamie Daugherty to modify a F4i shock for you.

As for brakes, you can just go to EBC HH pads and stick with what you got. Or find the easy bolt in 2001 or 2002 GSXR 1000 front brake system, or get the easily modifiable CBR F4i or 954 brakes that just need a little griding to work.

 

appreciate the input.

Why does everyone assume we all want to do trackdays?

I have no desire for a slipper clutch, in fact wouldn't want one. I LIKE compression braking.
So guess I'll leave the idle where it is.

The fork springs need replaced but that is it. Not going to do any swapping or revalving. For my riding, overkill. Cheapest, easiest, (and usually enough) is fork springs and play with fluid levels and viscosity.
Plenty good enough.

The rear is just fine and don't see that changing. (for 'me')

My dirt bike has been revalved, resprung, and front end swapped. This bike doesn't need that for the riding that "I" will do.

Brakes "might" end up doing something about.

PAIR definitely needs to be dealt with then, I hate deceleration popping.(burbling is highly prized though)

 

correct, once you set your idle speed, calibrate the TPS to between 410~430 ohms"

Why are you suggesting this instead of 500?

 

You will find setting your idle higher will still enable you to have engine braking but with less rear wheel slip and strain on your drive train.

Do a search of setting the TPS an you'll find thatoptimum is as I said but 500 will also be OK

 

Good info here - thanks guys.