Track days prep work
Track days prep work
I know I've seen that at least a few people here have taken thier hawks out for track days. I was just wondering what prep work was required for this. I'm assuming you don't need full race prep with safety wire and everything. I am hoping to participate in some of these next year and need to find out what I am getting myself into.
Thanks,
Kendrick
Thanks,
Kendrick
Make sure your brake fluid looks new and clear, I would change the oil, make sure you have good tires. Get a full set of leathers and boots. Check all your bolts to correct torque setting.
You get there take off your mirrors tape up all clear plastic.......hmm I can't remember anything else, but have fun.
Riding on a track kinda killed my street riding, it's too much fun, and safer than the street.
You get there take off your mirrors tape up all clear plastic.......hmm I can't remember anything else, but have fun.
Riding on a track kinda killed my street riding, it's too much fun, and safer than the street.
Remove the mirrors, tape over the headlight/tail-light.
Tape over or remove turn-signals.
Some track's/groups are strict about replacing coolant/water mix with plain water or water/water wetter mix, others don't care, check before you sign up.
Some track's/groups are strict about new/nearly new rubber, again, check before you sign up.
That should be it other than normal maintenance (fresh oil, brake fluid, everything torqued to spec, etc)
Some STRONGLY suggest you tape over your speedo for your first day, just so you don't look down and realize you're cornering way faster than you normally do, then panic/crash/run off course, but it's "optional" at every track day I've ever been to. I do it simply for that reason. One less thing to worry about/keep track of. As long as I'm having a good time, I'm going fast enough!
Tape over or remove turn-signals.
Some track's/groups are strict about replacing coolant/water mix with plain water or water/water wetter mix, others don't care, check before you sign up.
Some track's/groups are strict about new/nearly new rubber, again, check before you sign up.
That should be it other than normal maintenance (fresh oil, brake fluid, everything torqued to spec, etc)
Some STRONGLY suggest you tape over your speedo for your first day, just so you don't look down and realize you're cornering way faster than you normally do, then panic/crash/run off course, but it's "optional" at every track day I've ever been to. I do it simply for that reason. One less thing to worry about/keep track of. As long as I'm having a good time, I'm going fast enough!
Pretty much what was said already with the tape and mirrors, I use blue paint tape because it comes off easy. Pull the harness for the headlight and the fuse for the brake lights, some places require at least 70% of the tire tread is left on the tires when starting. Some places make you take off your stand so find that out you may need a rear stand. Make sure your brakes are in good working order and bring lots of fluids with you. You should get yourself a 10x10 easy-up or similar device to keep the sun off of you and some snacks. You would be amazed at the amount of energy it takes out of you riding on the track for 8 hours 20 mins at a time. Bring lots of extra nuts and bolts too, it would suck to not be able to ride because you lost a bolt for your shift lever......hmmm sounds like he speaks from experience there!
Luckily someone else provided me with one. Zip ties can work in a bind for somethings as well.
Get good gear, most places will allow 2 piece suits as long as they zip together, make sure it has armor of some sort. I also use a back protector but that's usually not required until you get into the intemediate group. If you can bring someone with you so you can watch out for eachother or just a spectator to watch out for you. Last piece of advice, leave your ego at home it'll only get you hurt! If you get a guy showing you his front wheel in the corners let him by, he must know something you can learn from. Try to follow him and see what you can learn but if he's too fast and you start to feel the pucker factor just slow it down, it's a track day not a race. Just remember to have fun and stay safe the #1 objective of a track day should be to come home in one piece with a bike in the same condition as when you brought it.
Oops forgot one more thing, some places like you to duct tape your wheel weights as well.
Get good gear, most places will allow 2 piece suits as long as they zip together, make sure it has armor of some sort. I also use a back protector but that's usually not required until you get into the intemediate group. If you can bring someone with you so you can watch out for eachother or just a spectator to watch out for you. Last piece of advice, leave your ego at home it'll only get you hurt! If you get a guy showing you his front wheel in the corners let him by, he must know something you can learn from. Try to follow him and see what you can learn but if he's too fast and you start to feel the pucker factor just slow it down, it's a track day not a race. Just remember to have fun and stay safe the #1 objective of a track day should be to come home in one piece with a bike in the same condition as when you brought it.
Oops forgot one more thing, some places like you to duct tape your wheel weights as well.
sounds like everything was covered
but i know some tracks/inspectors like for anything that could work its way lose or possibly come off of the bike, to be wired down or attached somehow.
(cotter pins on swingarm nut, etc.)
but i know some tracks/inspectors like for anything that could work its way lose or possibly come off of the bike, to be wired down or attached somehow.
(cotter pins on swingarm nut, etc.)
Thanks for all the input. Spending money, and good gear were a given. Oh, and I gave up on my ego a long time ago. I've also seen reference to needing an enclosed belly pan to catch fluids. Is this just a racing thing and not a track day concern?
Kendrick
Kendrick
I've never been asked to have one at any of the track day's and track schools I've been too. Heck if you look at most "modern" sportbikes, the "belly pans" have the bottom cutout to provide airflow to the exhaust pipe/provide clearance for the exhaust pipe, so I don't think that really applies anymore.
Contacting the company you plan on using for a track day would be highly reccomended though, just to be safe before sending in your $$$
Contacting the company you plan on using for a track day would be highly reccomended though, just to be safe before sending in your $$$
One thing I didn't see mentioned was something that I learned the hard way. I always disconnect the electrical connector to the headlight and any other lights I leave on the bike (the headlight and the weird indicator light above it are just about it). If not the heat generated is enough to cook the tap against the lens. What a mess. It took me about a year to get that glue off.
Make sure to lower your tire pressures. 40-42psi is for the street, on the track you'll run 30-32psi.
Make sure your suspension is setup before getting to the track. Of course, you set your sag right after you got your bike, but make sure your damping is dialed in a good as possible on the street before getting to the track. My buddy crashed his 51 this year at Mid-Ohio because he missed this point. Silly me, I thought he had done it. He had no warning and no chance to save it, don't underestimate this step.
Lastly - don't do a 'trackday' but rather enroll in a school. Some trackday organizations are bad, others are ok. My summation of all are that they will let any ya-hoo with 200 bucks on the track. Schools don't. Plus the education you get will be more valuable than the extra 30 min of track time.
Make sure to lower your tire pressures. 40-42psi is for the street, on the track you'll run 30-32psi.
Make sure your suspension is setup before getting to the track. Of course, you set your sag right after you got your bike, but make sure your damping is dialed in a good as possible on the street before getting to the track. My buddy crashed his 51 this year at Mid-Ohio because he missed this point. Silly me, I thought he had done it. He had no warning and no chance to save it, don't underestimate this step.
Lastly - don't do a 'trackday' but rather enroll in a school. Some trackday organizations are bad, others are ok. My summation of all are that they will let any ya-hoo with 200 bucks on the track. Schools don't. Plus the education you get will be more valuable than the extra 30 min of track time.
Yeah, I should specify. What I'm looking at is more of the coached sessions. My goal is track days next year, and if I feel good about it a dedicated track bike and maybe club racing the following year. Blackhawk Farms is about the only thing close to me so my choices are somewhat limited. I'm willing to throw money at this, but there is a limit. If anyone knows anything about Blackhawk let me know.
Thanks,
Kendrick
Thanks,
Kendrick
There are many trackday organizers that provide instruction. I have taken Level One (different orgs have different styles and levels of instruction) with Keith Code's California Superbike School. If you can grab a Road Racing World or Road Racer X magazine, they have a list of track-schools that you can look into on your own (to see which is closest, most cost-efficient, etc).
Just a few others off the top of my head:
- Penguin
- CLASS
- Fastrack (not dedicated track-instruction, but their Level One / Novice class has instruction)
Just a few others off the top of my head:
- Penguin
- CLASS
- Fastrack (not dedicated track-instruction, but their Level One / Novice class has instruction)
uh just curious but isn't it impossible to get the clutch fluid to stay clear? the rest yeah np but every bike I've seen that has a hydraulic clutch has dirty fluid. And I'm talking about brand new bikes too...
Make sure to lower your tire pressures. 40-42psi is for the street, on the track you'll run 30-32psi.
Make sure your suspension is setup before getting to the track. Of course, you set your sag right after you got your bike, but make sure your damping is dialed in a good as possible on the street before getting to the track. My buddy crashed his 51 this year at Mid-Ohio because he missed this point. Silly me, I thought he had done it. He had no warning and no chance to save it, don't underestimate this step.
Make sure your suspension is setup before getting to the track. Of course, you set your sag right after you got your bike, but make sure your damping is dialed in a good as possible on the street before getting to the track. My buddy crashed his 51 this year at Mid-Ohio because he missed this point. Silly me, I thought he had done it. He had no warning and no chance to save it, don't underestimate this step.
There are many trackday organizers that provide instruction. I have taken Level One (different orgs have different styles and levels of instruction) with Keith Code's California Superbike School. If you can grab a Road Racing World or Moto Racer X magazine, they have a list of track-schools that you can look into on your own (to see which is closest, most cost-efficient, etc).
Just a few others off the top of my head:
- Penguin
- CLASS
- Fastrack (not dedicated track-instruction, but their Level One / Novice class has instruction)
Just a few others off the top of my head:
- Penguin
- CLASS
- Fastrack (not dedicated track-instruction, but their Level One / Novice class has instruction)
Just checked and STT does go there, they just did one in Sept. so when you're ready go to www.sportbiketracktime.com and check out the schedule.
Sweet, that's probably what I'm looking for. I probably got this bug a couple months too late this year, but I'm still trying to even out the bike. Even with a stage 1 the D&D's are making the bike run lean. I think I'm going to go with Jardine high mounts before I do anything else. Anyway, thanks for the info.
Kendrick
Kendrick
Mine also been always black, even when I changed the fluid.
my best advice as you start would be to start with the bike as stock as you can safely and let you skills progress as you get faster, you'll know what to add and be able to feel the change and your skills will progress faster then throwing money at problems you don't have yet. don't get race tyres till your sliding of your street tyres. what you don't want to have happen is you spend big money just to find out you want the bike to do somthing completely differant for your riding style.
Most are the "usual supects" of Inline 4 600's and 1000's with the occasional V-twin (RC51 being more common than TL-R or TL-S) and the occasional Ducati/Aprila/more exotic.
One "class" track school I went to had a "old" guy in his 60's on a beat up early 90's Kawaskai Concours. I thought for sure I could beat that guy...Nope, he was DAMN FAST on that thing (I was on a Suzuki GS500E at that time, and fairly new to track days.)
It really depends on what "event" you are going to. If you are going to a entry level school event, the bikes will be older, and slower (in general). If you go to an open day track event, expect to see more serious hardware and racers. The size of the bike really doesn't determine the speed around the track though. On my last track day, http://www.socaltrackdays.com/ There was a "amatuer" racer there about a totally modified/race-prepped Suzuki SV650. He put everyone to shame that day, clocking the lowest lap times of the weekend. Over some SERIOUS hardware (Ducati, Aprilia, MV, R1, GSXR, etc) and very experienced guys.
It's not the bike, it's the rider. So don't worry about being passed by a R1 or GSXR600. Pay more attention/try to learn from the the guy hauling *** on the SV650 or 10 year old Touring bike.
I wholeheartedly DISAGREE!!! Get race tires, period. There is no substitute for the extra margin of traction you have with race tires. There's no point in going to the track and pushing your limits (albeit little-by-little) and worrying about if your tires are going to let go. It's worth the extra couple hundred to get 'em. If the first time you slide on street tires you wreck, was it really worth it? Oh, and let the race tires warm up. I've seen more wrecks on cold race tires than from anything else.
California Superbike School goes to Blackhawk every year. I'll probably be there with my VTR helping out next year.
I can't say enough about how good those guys are, you should certainly look into it. Maybe I'll see you there!
I can't say enough about how good those guys are, you should certainly look into it. Maybe I'll see you there!
No offense, but I think we could start another thread on street tires vs race tires. There are pro's and con's going both ways.
But...if we're gonna get into it...personally, I prefer doing track days on STREET tires. Mainly because I'm cheap. I hate shelling out that $300-$400 for a set of rubber that only lasts 3-4 track days. Some guys I go with get fresh tires every day (and they USE em/wear em out that fast)...I just can't afford that.
I will say I've tried race tires and found that I'm just simply not that fast. I just don't need em. I'm just as "fast" (or slow, depending on how you look at it) on street rubber as I am with race slicks mounted... so I'm the limiting factor, not my tires. Until my tires start to hold me back, I'll stick to street tires.
But...if we're gonna get into it...personally, I prefer doing track days on STREET tires. Mainly because I'm cheap. I hate shelling out that $300-$400 for a set of rubber that only lasts 3-4 track days. Some guys I go with get fresh tires every day (and they USE em/wear em out that fast)...I just can't afford that.
I will say I've tried race tires and found that I'm just simply not that fast. I just don't need em. I'm just as "fast" (or slow, depending on how you look at it) on street rubber as I am with race slicks mounted... so I'm the limiting factor, not my tires. Until my tires start to hold me back, I'll stick to street tires.
If I'm going to use race rubber is it worth it to buy a second set of wheels? I may very well do a few track days next year, but I don't know how I feel about using race rubber on the street. Does anyone else bother with this? Oh, and I'm definely looking into California SB school.
I purchased a second set of wheels for my track-rubber and street/commuting-tires. After awhile, wheel changes are real fast and easy. I would like to think I'm saving a lot of wear and tear on my tires.
A friend suggested getting different brake pads for each front wheel, though. I am assuming it's because each rotor from the different wheel will have a different thickness and (slightly different) shape that impedes braking performance if you were to use only one set of pads.
A friend suggested getting different brake pads for each front wheel, though. I am assuming it's because each rotor from the different wheel will have a different thickness and (slightly different) shape that impedes braking performance if you were to use only one set of pads.
Not true gssbmm! DOT race compound tires work MUCH better in the wet than street compound tires. You probably don't want to run them on the street for other reasons though. Namely 1) they will wear out really fast and 2) the daily heat cycles will strip out the oils ands basically turn them into crap.
Well I might as well put in my .02, I used Dunlop Qualifiers the time before and they worked great! I got a set of 208gps track tires for the last time I went and really couldn't tell much difference at all although I was a couple of seconds faster. I think that was due to the fact that the Q's were wearing out though, I was running 1:32's with the Q's worn out and they were still sticking. I was running 1:30's with the 208's but they really didn't feel much different. All the other times I went I used street tires and never crashed, I think it's more about how smooth you are then what you're riding on. BTW Keith Code's school has switched to the Q's for ALL of his school's bikes.
I looked over the website and I will definetly be at Blackhawk for California Superbike next year. Now the problem is the more I think about it I might fly out and ride one of their bikes for an earlier class. This is quickly going from bad to worse, or good to better. It depends on your out look. Either way thanks for everyones input, you may be creating a monster.
Kendrick
Kendrick





