Superhawk back firing
03-09-2007, 08:43 PM
#1
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 98
Superhawk back firing
Here's my superhawk
I have owned it for 3 years, I bought it in NC, near Fort Bragg, and brought it back to Shady Spring, WV. Everytime that you de-accellerate from 3500+ rpm's it backfires out of the exhaust (flames included). I though it needed rejeted because of elevation, so I took it to the Honda dealership last January for a re-jet and they had it for 4 months (not kidding) The said the took the carbs apart a crap load of times, The said its as close as we can get it, but its NO better. They also said something was broke (choke related) and now the choke slides back in while driving. Is it susposed to do that?
The guy I bought it from SAID it has a jet-kit, hot cams, K&N filter, two brothers exhaust, dry clutch, CF brakes, the cabin canister was removed and SS brake lines (you can see the rest).
I am not even sure what "Hot Cams" are but I am guessing varable timing
Any ideas how to stop my backfires so I can keep the guts of my mufflers?
I have owned it for 3 years, I bought it in NC, near Fort Bragg, and brought it back to Shady Spring, WV. Everytime that you de-accellerate from 3500+ rpm's it backfires out of the exhaust (flames included). I though it needed rejeted because of elevation, so I took it to the Honda dealership last January for a re-jet and they had it for 4 months (not kidding) The said the took the carbs apart a crap load of times, The said its as close as we can get it, but its NO better. They also said something was broke (choke related) and now the choke slides back in while driving. Is it susposed to do that?
The guy I bought it from SAID it has a jet-kit, hot cams, K&N filter, two brothers exhaust, dry clutch, CF brakes, the cabin canister was removed and SS brake lines (you can see the rest).
I am not even sure what "Hot Cams" are but I am guessing varable timing
Any ideas how to stop my backfires so I can keep the guts of my mufflers?
03-09-2007, 09:39 PM
#5
Administrator
World Champion
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fulton, MO
Posts: 105,287
The guy you bought it from is full of ****. Sorry.
The cams are unlikely, since they are pretty rare. The "carbon brakes" are probably Carbone Lorraine brand pads. The only way you'll have a dry clutch is if you drain all your oil out of the motor. And what the hell is a "cabin canister"? You mean CARBON canister?
LOL That's just a useless piece of emissions equipment that 99% of all owners remove.
You need to disable your PAIR system and that will stop much of your backfiring on decel. Do a forum search or look on my website for directions. You might also be running a tad rich.
As for the choke, remove the rubber grommet under the ****. This will reveal a knurled nut. Tighten that nut a bit and your choke will stay open when you pull on it. There's a great pic on my website if you want to check it out.
The cams are unlikely, since they are pretty rare. The "carbon brakes" are probably Carbone Lorraine brand pads. The only way you'll have a dry clutch is if you drain all your oil out of the motor. And what the hell is a "cabin canister"? You mean CARBON canister?
LOL That's just a useless piece of emissions equipment that 99% of all owners remove.You need to disable your PAIR system and that will stop much of your backfiring on decel. Do a forum search or look on my website for directions. You might also be running a tad rich.
As for the choke, remove the rubber grommet under the ****. This will reveal a knurled nut. Tighten that nut a bit and your choke will stay open when you pull on it. There's a great pic on my website if you want to check it out.
03-09-2007, 10:19 PM
#7
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 98
RE: dry clutch, Does all the superhawks have really sesitive clutches? Like they should have a warrning tag is you rev to 4K and let out the clutch slowly to feather it "Hold on" becuse it doesnt slip
and sorry about the spelling, and thanks I will check out the pair valve
Will it have a small hesitation comming off idle too if the pair valve is not disabled?
and sorry about the spelling, and thanks I will check out the pair valve
Will it have a small hesitation comming off idle too if the pair valve is not disabled?
03-10-2007, 09:48 AM
#9
Administrator
World Champion
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fulton, MO
Posts: 105,287
006,
Yes, the clutch is a bit grabby if you rev it up that high. No need though since there's so much torque. The one or two times I went to the dragstrip I got my best times by doing an abbreviated street start and then whacking it open.
I'm just messin' with you about the spelling. Kinda tesing out the newbie, so to speak. Breaking you in....
Yes, the clutch is a bit grabby if you rev it up that high. No need though since there's so much torque. The one or two times I went to the dragstrip I got my best times by doing an abbreviated street start and then whacking it open.
I'm just messin' with you about the spelling. Kinda tesing out the newbie, so to speak. Breaking you in....
03-10-2007, 10:00 AM
#10
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Albuquerque , NM
Posts: 125
track
I need to get mine to the track this spring. The best I could run on my 600RR was a 12.01 1/4 mile at 117mph...lame... but at 5500ft elevation.
006, as for speeling, i was never a good spelleer myyself. what happend
006, as for speeling, i was never a good spelleer myyself. what happend
03-10-2007, 10:20 PM
#11
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 98
I am going to pull of the tank and take some pics of whats left of the pair system, I would like to remove the hole system but when I read the steps I am not sure whats been done and whats not, but the reed valve sound like thats what need yanked out
03-11-2007, 11:58 AM
#13
Seņor Miembro, Ay Caramba
SuperSport
Join Date: May 2006
Location: a little north of DC
Posts: 562
It makes sense, but it's still funny that the shop couldn't figure out how to fix that. I wonder if they would have disabled PAIR if they knew that was the problem, which it most likely is.
03-11-2007, 06:49 PM
#15
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 98
Luckly there is no emissions test in WV
However I got the tank off, my reed valve was facing down, it has carbon all over it, and my plugs looks like super rich. I bought new NGK's, to remove the whole system do I need to take the air box off? Do I remove the front valve though the wheel gap? What do I do to the reed valve now?
Plug and reed valve
ANd here's that front fork shot someone requested, are they OEM
However I got the tank off, my reed valve was facing down, it has carbon all over it, and my plugs looks like super rich. I bought new NGK's, to remove the whole system do I need to take the air box off? Do I remove the front valve though the wheel gap? What do I do to the reed valve now?
Plug and reed valve
ANd here's that front fork shot someone requested, are they OEM
03-11-2007, 06:57 PM
#17
Administrator
World Champion
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fulton, MO
Posts: 105,287
Okay, on the back side of the valve you need to file/grind off the peened over part of the screw. Now carefully remove that screw. It's a tight bugger so be careful and use a good screwdriver. Once it's off you want to flip the reed stop. This should serve to hold the thin reed in place and not allow it to open. Now put the screw back in with some locktite and put it all back together.
If you're going to remove everything please see the article on my website as it's too much to post here. Short answer: yes, you have to remove the airbox.
If you're going to remove everything please see the article on my website as it's too much to post here. Short answer: yes, you have to remove the airbox.
03-11-2007, 07:23 PM
#19
Seņor Miembro, Ay Caramba
SuperSport
Join Date: May 2006
Location: a little north of DC
Posts: 562
03-11-2007, 07:42 PM
#20
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 98
Copper thing? The valve will only go in one way. All you're doing is flipping the reed stopper
I got that done (including the loctite) Got the air box off and the Pair valve on the floor. To do the front, I do though the wheel well?
03-12-2007, 10:56 AM
#23
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 98
Well just the vibration from the motor will make the choke slide in by itself (I am thinking) It used to stay pulled out untill I would push it back in before the dealer worked on it. Its kinda cool that it will automaticly turn off and the dealer said that the only thing they could find wrong was something broke to do with the choke. So is it susposed to slowly draw itself back in?
03-12-2007, 08:38 PM
#29
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 98
NO popping no Back firering, it would have only taken me an hour but I removed the whole system and had to get caps for the lines, you could do the front one in like 5 mins, just cut the wheel and remove the 2 8mm screws then pop the vavle out and flip over the reed stop (its the part you can see sticking up in my shot(2nd page) with the plug) and on the rear one you can see easly where is at in my first shot (2nd page) becasue the bright orange seal
