OK.... Sorry.... I know there are TONS of threads about sprockets, and opinions.. But i didn't see anything that really explained what i am debating....

I am planning to order both a 15T front, and 43T rear steel sprockets from DK...

However... I'm only planning on installing one or the other at first.. I had kinda gotten sold on the 15/43 because the bike NEEDS more wheelie power in my opinion... While i'm not into riding long long wheelies, or into trying to do stunts or anything... I am a huge fan of the light front end when pulling away.... And want to be able to pull and ride out 2nd gear wheelies without to much work...

I do plan to ride on the interstate, however spend very little time at 100+ speeds...

Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo..... The question....

Whats the difference in 15/41 vs 16/43???

Knowing the goal is more wheelie power, which would be the best to start with? 15T front (or) the 43T rear??? Would one give me more wheelie power than the other???

Is there a mechanical reason one would go one route vs the other?


My plan is that i will do one, then if its not what i expected, i can always add the other...

Remember... I am chasing the wheelie power, nothing else... I don't really ride all that hard...

So? Any help would be appreciated...

 

Dude, your multiple personalities should post separately...

 

I would say, it's pretty simple; I worked out all the ratios and this is what I get: First, try the 43 on the rear with a stock front (16). If that's not enough but the stock 41 back on, and go to a front 15. And if you can still see over the front wheel, put the 43 on the rear with the 15 on the front. Those will bring progressively lower gearing. My only question is if the stock length chain and axle-slots will accomodate the changes in center-to-center length. I am pretty sure it will.
Check your manual and use proper procedure to mount the sprockets, and adjust the chain for each change.

 

Me, I would put the 43 on the back (that's my preferred change, for normal riding. Remember: Leave no turn unstoned!), and mount the 15 front for special occasions, or if I wanted to get rid of gas, quickly.
YMMV, by a lot.

 

Elba? Elba Ny? It doesn't matter what you do- "Able was I, ere I saw Elba"
It'll be the same coming or going. You live in a palindrome!

Hmmm- palindromic gearing- a F&R sprocket combination with different teeth on each, but which nevertheless gives an equal gear ratio!

 

Ok.... yea... ummmmm.... i'm lost... i mean i see the whole backwards/forwards thing.. but um... lol still lost...

Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo...

Thanks though... So if i'm reading your first response right, the 15T front would create more low end power right?

And J.J. ,

I don't ride mile long standup's, however when i'm comming out of a corner and downshift to second, i want to be able to just roll on the throttle and have the front end come up with no huge issues.... The bike stock is very light in first, but requires some work for second to come up... I want second to act like first does now... thats it...

 

+!

 

throw them both on and wack open the throttle as quick as you can and make sure you hold on. the bike has plenty of power to wheelie with stock gearing. have fun

 

And unless you don't weigh 300 lbs. and you can get out of the corner fast enough - second or even third will get you light in the front.

Are you getting into your corners as fast as possible because of bullshit stock suspension? The Superhawk is a corner-monster with the right suspension set up and gearing for your riding style.

The difference between the two set-ups discussed here are within hundredths of gear ratio. I run 15/41 and for me it's got the right stuff. I like coming into the corners hauling some rpms - I don't like digging the 'Hawk out of the corners at low r's. The 15/41 does ok for my purposes. Lots of engine brake and pulls up evenly and strong from the turns.

Everybody has their own style, local road conditions, and most importantly, the bikes. They're all just a little different.

 

Going +2 on the rear sprocket by itself gives you 4.5% more rpm at same road speed.

Going -1 on the front by itself gives you 6.25% more rpm per road speed. You could probably tell the difference between them but it's a small one.

 

A while ago, I ordered a 43 tooth rear, and was shipped a 45 tooth. I was pissed, but i was even more so lazy, and just put it on my bike. Its a stupid setup, but I turned out really liking it. Just didnt like buying another new chain.

 

Would the 45 Rear be similar to going with 15/43???

 

Yes, it would be similar. 16/45 is not quite as short as 15/43, but it's close. It's very simple to calculate the relative differences in all these sprocket combinations. Just divide the number of teeth of the rear sprocket by the number of teeth of the front sprocket. The higher the number the shorter the gearing and the faster the engine will spin at a given road speed.
41/16 (stock gearing)=2.5625
45/15=2.8125
43/15=2.8667

People usually change the countershaft sprocket because it's easier and greater changes in gear ratio can be made with a one tooth difference than with rear sprockets. Also, going to a larger rear sprocket can sometimes require a longer chain, which adds to the expense.

 

Thanks.... I "Think" that its been said in a number of other threads that any of these combo's i'm talking about can be done with stock length chain... And my chain only has 300 miles on it, so i'm planning on not replacing the chain at this point....

Now... Question.. Is there a mechanical difference in why you would do one vs the other? Like does changing the front sprocket increase engine braking more than replacing rear?

Since the gain seems to be +2R, then -1F, then both... as far as gains are concerned.. And since the front is easier to do, I think i'll go -1 on the front first... then go from there....

 

How about getting the calculator out and figuring this stuff out.. it's not rocket science.... 16/43 is a bit taller than 15/41, there!

 

The bigger sprocket will take more chain length, this will bring the adjustment closer to the front of the slot, witch reduce the wheel base, helping wheelies,bring the the front as high as possible, drink beer, eat burgers and wear good protective gear.

 

Why thanks for your insight there... helped so much...



I'll keep your comment in mind next time I want to get online and find a forum... I mean if we all just figured stuff out ourselves, and didn't ask questions, then we wouldn't need a whole forum about one motorcycle right?

 

Thank you... seriously... this is what i'm after... what the other gains/drawbacks of each are...

Question... In dropping to a 15T front, and leaving rear alone, am i actually making the wheel base slightly longer? Obviously it wouldn't be much, but in all reality, it would right? So realistically, for what i'm going for, i'm probably better off going with the rear sprocket first... then changing later if its not enough for what i'm going for....

thanks for the input...

 

Yep. Bigger sprocket, front or rear, shortens wheelbase. Smaller sprocket, front or rear, extends wheelbase. Would the extra 1.75% rpm from a 15t front overcome the shorter wheelbase from a 43t rear? Probably too close to be anything but academic question. If my #1 interest was wheelies (it isn't), I'd probably go ahead with 15f 43r in the first place.

 

Don't forget, a smaller front sprocket will increase chain wear, due to decreased radius (chain has to bend more, faster) generally, this doesn't become serious unless you go below 14T)

Why not go 16-43 for everyday use and 15-43 for track days, birthdays, national holidays, etc. Don't overtighten the nuts and use a new locking tab.

Believe me, almost every stock bike is overgeared, for various reasons. I wonder how many expensive mods have been made to engines, when the bike just needed one less tooth on the front. People would rather spend a grand on their fuel-injection and exhaust instead.