Here is the start of my project.


Glad Tapatio didn't charge me extra for the giant Black Widow living in the exhaust port.



So far the cylinders look good no ridge on the top, funny thing is the rear CCT (stock Honda) the tip was all smashed over. don't know what that was about.
I will be ordering Mori cams as soon as Bill gets back to me, I need to get the case split to see what bearing is spun, then take it to my engine guy to check for out of round before I purchase HC pistons.

 

Yeah, those black widows love inactive vehicles. And they find the deepest, darkest recesses to crawl into.

 

what benefits do you expect to see form the cams?

 

More suck for more bang

 

Finally got the cases all split this weekend. Crank connecting rod journal was the culprit.



The journal doesn't feel gouged with a fingernail just scorched.

I need to have it reground and polished.

Anyone know if you have to replace connecting rods in pairs?

 

Nice!

I can't see why you'd have to replace the rods in pairs, but I'm interested to know this too...RC

 

i know for a fact you don't need to do all the rods in a car at the same time

 

Just curious. I didn't know if there would be an instability with the rods being mixed. One streched and one not.

 

Not sure that should be a concern cuz it should contract when cool

 

Just make sure the rods are balanced.
It's easy to do with a digital scale and better than factory new.

 

is there a spec for weight difference for rods?

 

Yea cylinders checked out fine for both roundness and taper. Now it is time for the ball hone to clean out the cylinders.

 

Oh, there it is!

Did the bearing spin in the rod, or did it just get close?

 

From all the discoloration in the rod and on the outside of the bearing I think it spun inside.

 

They should be equal. Just grind a little off the side of the heavier one until they match.

 

I was just thinking about that shouldn't the weight be removed from the middle of the back strap?

What about pistons use the inside edge of the skirts to adjust the weight difference?

 

Crank all polished up

 

"It depends".

With rods if you want to be really picky then you'd match not only the overall rod weight, but you'd check how it's distributed from end-to-end. You do this by having one end of the rod on a solid surface off the scale and the other end on the scale. You do this with each end on each rod with all hardware/bushings in place.

http://www.performanceengines.com/pe...RodBalance.jpg

 

Yea cams arrived today. Ill post pictures later along with weight comparisons.
Moriwaki cams are hollow not solid like the stockers. Yea for lighter valve train.

 

Well I guess the new cams are heavier than the stockers.
Only 2oz heavier. Stockers were 67oz total and the Mori are 69oz.
Oh well I was hopeful that they were lighter.

 

Im kind of impatient so I put my new cams in today.
I put the bike on the Dyno at Full Throttle Power sports and I was getting 88 at the rear wheel. Torque was unreadable bad RPM connection.

 

How's the ole butt dyno reading? Does she pull harder everywhere?

 

Don't remove material from the middle of the back strap!! That is the most highly stressed area of the rod. You want to remove it from the area outside of the clamp bolts.


All of the cams are hollow, or you've got a lubrication problem.
Mori cams were made with the factory castings. Fatter lobes=more weight.

 

Butt dyno feels better, I will get it on the dyno again this weekend.

 

Figured it would! Are you running a stock air filter setup?

 

Yep

 

You might want to try Mikstr's air box mod to give you a little more butt dyno power

Not sure where the thread is, but it's a cool mod that I plan to try too!

 

I found this airbox mod, but not sure if it'll work or not for what you're doing...Mikstr's mod is less aggressive...

http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/air_box_lid.htm

 

Seems a lot of work and money for fewer horsies

http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/air_box3.htm

 

Work = Horsepower