R/R what are the options
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R/R what are the options
ok I have seen some posts on this already but still unclear
basically it seems it's not the finned vs the flat ver that makes the bigdifference but the age of the unit (thanks Tweety)
but as I search online I found aftermarket companies that claim better thenOEM for around the OEM price ~$100. is that a good way to go or look into somethingelse ?
http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/honda/vtr1000f-superhawk-98-05/honda-regulatorrectifier-super-duty.html
I can't see Honda making these them selves my guess is that there are only acouple companies that all the Jap bikes use so I can't see one make (Yamaha SuzukiHonda kawi) being superior to the other.
At the end of the day the stator regulator and rectifier are all basicallythe same thing regardless of the bike there used on. what about cars? today theR/R are built into the alternator but back in the 80s there separate units andsell for around $30.. I would think these could handle much higher power thenthe little ones we find on bikes.. just a thought.
Please give me your thoughts opinion and to top that
Experience!
Thanks
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MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,871
From: Phoenix, AZ
Connie Demico does toad?
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 383
From: Lakeway
I used a zx6r kwakker unit, I cut off its plug and soldered on some females, I heat-shrinked to the edge of the connectors and plugged in. My harness had not fried so I keep the old rr in the tank bag just in case. Has worked a treat for about 8k miles.
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Superstock
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 285
From: Snohomish, WA.
I used a R1 RR, here is one of many off of e-bay, that is where I bought mine, used, works just fine. (thanks to forum rec. )Type in Yamaha R1 Regulator and many will come up. Just make sure it has the power and stator hook-up, like the one below. These are the FH012AA Mosfet type. You can probably find a used one cheaper than the one below but this is an example of what you want.
Eastern Beaver for the plugs and silicone wiring,they have kits already put together. There is another state side electrical connector supplier that I have reccomended but cannot recall it right now.
09 10 11 12 13 2010 2011 Yamaha R1 Voltage Regulator Rectiifer No Reserve | eBay
Eastern Beaver for the plugs and silicone wiring,they have kits already put together. There is another state side electrical connector supplier that I have reccomended but cannot recall it right now.
09 10 11 12 13 2010 2011 Yamaha R1 Voltage Regulator Rectiifer No Reserve | eBay
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ok I have seen some posts on this already but still unclear
basically it seems it's not the finned vs the flat ver that makes the bigdifference but the age of the unit (thanks Tweety)
but as I search online I found aftermarket companies that claim better thenOEM for around the OEM price ~$100. is that a good way to go or look into somethingelse ?
http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/honda/vtr1000f-superhawk-98-05/honda-regulatorrectifier-super-duty.html
I can't see Honda making these them selves my guess is that there are only acouple companies that all the Jap bikes use so I can't see one make (Yamaha SuzukiHonda kawi) being superior to the other.
At the end of the day the stator regulator and rectifier are all basicallythe same thing regardless of the bike there used on. what about cars? today theR/R are built into the alternator but back in the 80s there separate units andsell for around $30.. I would think these could handle much higher power thenthe little ones we find on bikes.. just a thought.
Please give me your thoughts opinion and to top that
Experience!
Thanks
basically it seems it's not the finned vs the flat ver that makes the bigdifference but the age of the unit (thanks Tweety)
but as I search online I found aftermarket companies that claim better thenOEM for around the OEM price ~$100. is that a good way to go or look into somethingelse ?
http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/honda/vtr1000f-superhawk-98-05/honda-regulatorrectifier-super-duty.html
I can't see Honda making these them selves my guess is that there are only acouple companies that all the Jap bikes use so I can't see one make (Yamaha SuzukiHonda kawi) being superior to the other.
At the end of the day the stator regulator and rectifier are all basicallythe same thing regardless of the bike there used on. what about cars? today theR/R are built into the alternator but back in the 80s there separate units andsell for around $30.. I would think these could handle much higher power thenthe little ones we find on bikes.. just a thought.
Please give me your thoughts opinion and to top that
Experience!
Thanks
MOSFET R/R they recommended...
Buy New Regulator/Rectifier use in ESK433 kit - Yamaha Rhino
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Hey, I have been doing a lot of research and reading a ton of threads on here about this question. I actually called electrosport and he recommended using a Yamaha Rhino R/R. It is MOSFET and of course not plug-n-play but it seems pretty easy to hook up. He seemed very knowledgable about the issue. I have no idea if it will work though, I tested my aftermarket R/R that came on my bike and it checked out ok, turns out my Stator was bad so I am crossing my fingers while I wait for my new stator to arrive, that my R/R is in fact still good. They also have pretty extensive testing instructions to test your entire wiring systems for faults. Definitely read 7Moore7's link he supplied. It explains a lot and will hopefully help you out.
MOSFET R/R they recommended...
Buy New Regulator/Rectifier use in ESK433 kit - Yamaha Rhino
MOSFET R/R they recommended...
Buy New Regulator/Rectifier use in ESK433 kit - Yamaha Rhino
Get this through your thick skulls the lot of you...
Option One... An OEM R/R... Regardless of fins or not... When new works fine, and lasts 3-4 years, maybe 5 years and then it should be replaced weather it has faield or not, since it tends to damage expensive things when it does...
Option Two... An OEM grade Mosfet R/R... There are lists of working options and info in the linked thread above... Lasts indefenitely if you do other preventive maintainance...
Option Dumbass... This option includes all the rest... It includes anything made by Rick's, and a bunch of others, wich are all just re-selling chinese crap... It includes used non-Mosfet R/R's, which is just plain dumb... And it includes pretty much every other "cost saving" brilliant plans you can come up with...
I'm getting fed up with people sticking their head into threads saying "I found this and that" making people like Caffeine confused, when they themselves know jack **** about the actual facts...
Sorry 996thehawk you're the one taking the brunt of my irritation, but this simply have to stop... Stop feeding the rumormill of confusion... If you don't know squat, keep your mouths shut... Or at the very least post what you are posting clearly worded as a question, not as stating facts... It helps people separate out the bullshit, and the uncomfirmed theories...
I know it's a longwinded read... But the point of that thread was to help people sort out the facts themselves, and stop the confusion...
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Yep... Very "knowledgeable" and one hell of a salesman... He's managed to convince you to pay more for a third-party R/R than a OEM grade one costs... One that is constructed to operate much larger wattage than your bike needs, and hence will produce incorrect voltages on your bike...
Get this through your thick skulls the lot of you...
Option One... An OEM R/R... Regardless of fins or not... When new works fine, and lasts 3-4 years, maybe 5 years and then it should be replaced weather it has faield or not, since it tends to damage expensive things when it does...
Option Two... An OEM grade Mosfet R/R... There are lists of working options and info in the linked thread above... Lasts indefenitely if you do other preventive maintainance...
Option Dumbass... This option includes all the rest... It includes anything made by Rick's, and a bunch of others, wich are all just re-selling chinese crap... It includes used non-Mosfet R/R's, which is just plain dumb... And it includes pretty much every other "cost saving" brilliant plans you can come up with...
I'm getting fed up with people sticking their head into threads saying "I found this and that" making people like Caffeine confused, when they themselves know jack **** about the actual facts...
Sorry 996thehawk you're the one taking the brunt of my irritation, but this simply have to stop... Stop feeding the rumormill of confusion... If you don't know squat, keep your mouths shut... Or at the very least post what you are posting clearly worded as a question, not as stating facts... It helps people separate out the bullshit, and the uncomfirmed theories...
I know it's a longwinded read... But the point of that thread was to help people sort out the facts themselves, and stop the confusion...
Get this through your thick skulls the lot of you...
Option One... An OEM R/R... Regardless of fins or not... When new works fine, and lasts 3-4 years, maybe 5 years and then it should be replaced weather it has faield or not, since it tends to damage expensive things when it does...
Option Two... An OEM grade Mosfet R/R... There are lists of working options and info in the linked thread above... Lasts indefenitely if you do other preventive maintainance...
Option Dumbass... This option includes all the rest... It includes anything made by Rick's, and a bunch of others, wich are all just re-selling chinese crap... It includes used non-Mosfet R/R's, which is just plain dumb... And it includes pretty much every other "cost saving" brilliant plans you can come up with...
I'm getting fed up with people sticking their head into threads saying "I found this and that" making people like Caffeine confused, when they themselves know jack **** about the actual facts...
Sorry 996thehawk you're the one taking the brunt of my irritation, but this simply have to stop... Stop feeding the rumormill of confusion... If you don't know squat, keep your mouths shut... Or at the very least post what you are posting clearly worded as a question, not as stating facts... It helps people separate out the bullshit, and the uncomfirmed theories...
I know it's a longwinded read... But the point of that thread was to help people sort out the facts themselves, and stop the confusion...
+1 Boys and girls, Tweety created this thread for a reason and he is THE Authority when it comes to anything electrical, It is made to help you, so please do yourself a favor and use the info' supplied already on the forum!!!
I have seen and fixed many bikes that had the entire electrical system burned down because of R/R's, I even seen a friends older Gixer catching on fire while riding due to faulty R/R, trust me, it is not fun when the bike burns between your legs and you trying to stop on the New Jersey turnpike... The wire harness fried completely before he even stopped and caused a secondary actual oil/grease flames, we left the bike to burn, lucky the gas tank didn't ignite, but the bike was a total mess.
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SuperBike
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From: Gettysburg, Pa
^^^^^^^
Nice find Jamie. A bit expensive but for the non d.i.y.er it doesn't get any easier. It says VFR and has 2 connections... if this works for our bikes, I'll add a link to the swap thread.
I hear you M. All the info is right there laid out in 2 threads. 
Originally Posted by Tweety
Get this through your thick skulls the lot of you...
Last edited by Wolverine; Jun 15, 2013 at 07:29 AM.
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Now, after reading what I wrote earlier, I have to make one addition...
I wasn't saying it was the end all answer... There will be new donor bikes added to the list and new things happening... Things change, just look at what Jamie posted...
But there is a BIG difference between someone saying "I did this, it's brilliant, and will solve all your R/R problems..." about a chinese R/R from a 125 cc scooter, to posting it as a question, or "I did this, but YMMV..."
One adds to the confusion, making more people ask questions that are already answered, the other keeps people looking for defenitive answers somewere else... Ie, from the threads mentioned...
I wasn't saying it was the end all answer... There will be new donor bikes added to the list and new things happening... Things change, just look at what Jamie posted...
But there is a BIG difference between someone saying "I did this, it's brilliant, and will solve all your R/R problems..." about a chinese R/R from a 125 cc scooter, to posting it as a question, or "I did this, but YMMV..."
One adds to the confusion, making more people ask questions that are already answered, the other keeps people looking for defenitive answers somewere else... Ie, from the threads mentioned...
Last edited by Tweety; Jun 15, 2013 at 12:15 PM.
Member
Superstock
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 285
From: Snohomish, WA.
Tweety,
It's clear I did not have to recommend the R1 R/R. My contribution to this thread was completely unnecessary.
Please excuse.
The main thread you wrote mentioned above regarding this subject explains every in/out and detail necessary to choose AND understand the R/R.
Appreciate your expertise.
It's clear I did not have to recommend the R1 R/R. My contribution to this thread was completely unnecessary.
Please excuse.
The main thread you wrote mentioned above regarding this subject explains every in/out and detail necessary to choose AND understand the R/R.
Appreciate your expertise.
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Tweety,
It's clear I did not have to recommend the R1 R/R. My contribution to this thread was completely unnecessary.
Please excuse.
The main thread you wrote mentioned above regarding this subject explains every in/out and detail necessary to choose AND understand the R/R.
Appreciate your expertise.
It's clear I did not have to recommend the R1 R/R. My contribution to this thread was completely unnecessary.
Please excuse.
The main thread you wrote mentioned above regarding this subject explains every in/out and detail necessary to choose AND understand the R/R.
Appreciate your expertise.
Deals Gap is a Hoot!
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 104
From: St. Louis, Mizzery
Fried Stator
turns out my Stator was bad so I am crossing my fingers while I wait for my new stator to arrive, that my R/R is in fact still good.
MOSFET R/R they recommended...
Buy New Regulator/Rectifier use in ESK433 kit - Yamaha Rhino
MOSFET R/R they recommended...
Buy New Regulator/Rectifier use in ESK433 kit - Yamaha Rhino
You should check the stators multi pronged plug for signs of corrosion inside the plastic wire plug and socket, you may find green and white gunk on the copper plugs and socket which needs to be cleaned and then apply die electric grease to both sides of the plug connector.
Also look at all of the plug and socket connectors at the base of the fuel tank for signs of excessive heating due to corrosion, the plastic plug and socket connectors can melt from excessive corrosion and heat buildup melting the connectors and grounding the stator causing it to fail.
Honda are notorious for stator failures from melted stator connectors full of corrosion and the cause is from simply washing the bike or getting caught out in the rain and the stator connector filling with water and not getting cleaned out...
Honda actually has stator wiring harness repair kits available for many of their bikes, I am not sure if the Hawk is included but I would think they have a kit that would work on the Super Hawk one would just have to match up the number of stator wires from the hawk to their repair kits.
Honda has known about this problem for years now and has corrected the problem on newer models but any Honda over 10 years old will have this potential stator problem and everyone needs to take a look see at the wire bundle at the base of the fuel tank each time you have the seat off!
If your stator connectors are usable clean them out and fill both plastic connectors full of die electric grease and this will give you protection against stator failure.
Also clean and apply die electric grease to the voltage regulator / rectifier connectors as well to keep this item functioning properly as well, good luck!
SIRR1
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Posts: 176
Hey 996thehawk I find it interesting that you toasted the stator on your hawk and you may want to check the wire bundle that comes out of the stator and plugs into the wire harness for broken or rubbed open wires that may ground on the frame.
You should check the stators multi pronged plug for signs of corrosion inside the plastic wire plug and socket, you may find green and white gunk on the copper plugs and socket which needs to be cleaned and then apply die electric grease to both sides of the plug connector.
Also look at all of the plug and socket connectors at the base of the fuel tank for signs of excessive heating due to corrosion, the plastic plug and socket connectors can melt from excessive corrosion and heat buildup melting the connectors and grounding the stator causing it to fail.
Honda are notorious for stator failures from melted stator connectors full of corrosion and the cause is from simply washing the bike or getting caught out in the rain and the stator connector filling with water and not getting cleaned out...
Honda actually has stator wiring harness repair kits available for many of their bikes, I am not sure if the Hawk is included but I would think they have a kit that would work on the Super Hawk one would just have to match up the number of stator wires from the hawk to their repair kits.
Honda has known about this problem for years now and has corrected the problem on newer models but any Honda over 10 years old will have this potential stator problem and everyone needs to take a look see at the wire bundle at the base of the fuel tank each time you have the seat off!
If your stator connectors are usable clean them out and fill both plastic connectors full of die electric grease and this will give you protection against stator failure.
Also clean and apply die electric grease to the voltage regulator / rectifier connectors as well to keep this item functioning properly as well, good luck!
SIRR1
You should check the stators multi pronged plug for signs of corrosion inside the plastic wire plug and socket, you may find green and white gunk on the copper plugs and socket which needs to be cleaned and then apply die electric grease to both sides of the plug connector.
Also look at all of the plug and socket connectors at the base of the fuel tank for signs of excessive heating due to corrosion, the plastic plug and socket connectors can melt from excessive corrosion and heat buildup melting the connectors and grounding the stator causing it to fail.
Honda are notorious for stator failures from melted stator connectors full of corrosion and the cause is from simply washing the bike or getting caught out in the rain and the stator connector filling with water and not getting cleaned out...
Honda actually has stator wiring harness repair kits available for many of their bikes, I am not sure if the Hawk is included but I would think they have a kit that would work on the Super Hawk one would just have to match up the number of stator wires from the hawk to their repair kits.
Honda has known about this problem for years now and has corrected the problem on newer models but any Honda over 10 years old will have this potential stator problem and everyone needs to take a look see at the wire bundle at the base of the fuel tank each time you have the seat off!
If your stator connectors are usable clean them out and fill both plastic connectors full of die electric grease and this will give you protection against stator failure.
Also clean and apply die electric grease to the voltage regulator / rectifier connectors as well to keep this item functioning properly as well, good luck!
SIRR1
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 176
Yep... Very "knowledgeable" and one hell of a salesman... He's managed to convince you to pay more for a third-party R/R than a OEM grade one costs... One that is constructed to operate much larger wattage than your bike needs, and hence will produce incorrect voltages on your bike...
Get this through your thick skulls the lot of you...
Option One... An OEM R/R... Regardless of fins or not... When new works fine, and lasts 3-4 years, maybe 5 years and then it should be replaced weather it has faield or not, since it tends to damage expensive things when it does...
Option Two... An OEM grade Mosfet R/R... There are lists of working options and info in the linked thread above... Lasts indefenitely if you do other preventive maintainance...
Option Dumbass... This option includes all the rest... It includes anything made by Rick's, and a bunch of others, wich are all just re-selling chinese crap... It includes used non-Mosfet R/R's, which is just plain dumb... And it includes pretty much every other "cost saving" brilliant plans you can come up with...
I'm getting fed up with people sticking their head into threads saying "I found this and that" making people like Caffeine confused, when they themselves know jack **** about the actual facts...
Sorry 996thehawk you're the one taking the brunt of my irritation, but this simply have to stop... Stop feeding the rumormill of confusion... If you don't know squat, keep your mouths shut... Or at the very least post what you are posting clearly worded as a question, not as stating facts... It helps people separate out the bullshit, and the uncomfirmed theories...
I know it's a longwinded read... But the point of that thread was to help people sort out the facts themselves, and stop the confusion...
Get this through your thick skulls the lot of you...
Option One... An OEM R/R... Regardless of fins or not... When new works fine, and lasts 3-4 years, maybe 5 years and then it should be replaced weather it has faield or not, since it tends to damage expensive things when it does...
Option Two... An OEM grade Mosfet R/R... There are lists of working options and info in the linked thread above... Lasts indefenitely if you do other preventive maintainance...
Option Dumbass... This option includes all the rest... It includes anything made by Rick's, and a bunch of others, wich are all just re-selling chinese crap... It includes used non-Mosfet R/R's, which is just plain dumb... And it includes pretty much every other "cost saving" brilliant plans you can come up with...
I'm getting fed up with people sticking their head into threads saying "I found this and that" making people like Caffeine confused, when they themselves know jack **** about the actual facts...
Sorry 996thehawk you're the one taking the brunt of my irritation, but this simply have to stop... Stop feeding the rumormill of confusion... If you don't know squat, keep your mouths shut... Or at the very least post what you are posting clearly worded as a question, not as stating facts... It helps people separate out the bullshit, and the uncomfirmed theories...
I know it's a longwinded read... But the point of that thread was to help people sort out the facts themselves, and stop the confusion...
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