Ok, I have a challenge...
03-30-2010, 01:27 PM
#1
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Ok, I have a challenge...
Unfortunately the OCMD club can't compete...
I'd like to know the wet weight of a bone stock, completely unmodified VTR... And I'd like to know the weight bias front-rear...
So if you own a completely stock VTR, no modifications at all (including OEM mufflers) sneak out your bathroom scale to the garage and stick one wheel at the time on the scale and record the weight...
If you have done some very minor mods, like LED indicators or whatever, as long as you can give a reasonable weight, you are welcome to compete...
A digital and self calibrating scale is preferred but not necessary (please check that it goes high enough, should say so on the bottom)... Also preferred if the tank is at least close to full at the time, but I'll let that slide if you note approximate % of full... To get any accuracy doing this, you will need to balance the bike while you read the scale, not have it resting on the side-stand....
The first two to reply and correlate each others number gets a reward... I'm the judge and jury and no appeals are valid on the ruling...
And yes, the reward is a physical object, same for both winners, and it will come in a plain envelope as soon as the Swedish Post & USPS can agree on a delivery date (that might take them a while)...
Needed to compete: Picture of said bike to verify status, weight at front wheel, weight at rear wheel, approximate content of tank... Results to be posted in thread, not by PM...
The Reward: An Idiot light... A very small, very thin device with two LED's... Hook it up to positive & ground of your choosing and place it close to the gauge cluster and it tells you if your charging system works as expected... One LED stays lit up to 11,5V and fades to about 12V, then goes out, the other starts to come on dimly at 14V and is fully lit at 14,5V... If all is well, no light is on...
Pictures to come once I find the cable to my camera... Edit: Once I take decent pictures... The ones I have are embarrassing...
Edit2: I gave up trying to show them lit... The camera doesn't like them... Please note that the scale is in centimeters... Not inches... It's barely over an inch long... Yes, it's tiny... Just take a double side tape and stick it to the side of the cluster... And it's watertight... Stuck one in a glass of water o test it...
I'd like to know the wet weight of a bone stock, completely unmodified VTR... And I'd like to know the weight bias front-rear...
So if you own a completely stock VTR, no modifications at all (including OEM mufflers) sneak out your bathroom scale to the garage and stick one wheel at the time on the scale and record the weight...
If you have done some very minor mods, like LED indicators or whatever, as long as you can give a reasonable weight, you are welcome to compete...
A digital and self calibrating scale is preferred but not necessary (please check that it goes high enough, should say so on the bottom)... Also preferred if the tank is at least close to full at the time, but I'll let that slide if you note approximate % of full... To get any accuracy doing this, you will need to balance the bike while you read the scale, not have it resting on the side-stand....
The first two to reply and correlate each others number gets a reward... I'm the judge and jury and no appeals are valid on the ruling...
And yes, the reward is a physical object, same for both winners, and it will come in a plain envelope as soon as the Swedish Post & USPS can agree on a delivery date (that might take them a while)...
Needed to compete: Picture of said bike to verify status, weight at front wheel, weight at rear wheel, approximate content of tank... Results to be posted in thread, not by PM...
The Reward: An Idiot light...
A very small, very thin device with two LED's... Hook it up to positive & ground of your choosing and place it close to the gauge cluster and it tells you if your charging system works as expected... One LED stays lit up to 11,5V and fades to about 12V, then goes out, the other starts to come on dimly at 14V and is fully lit at 14,5V... If all is well, no light is on... Pictures to come once I find the cable to my camera... Edit: Once I take decent pictures... The ones I have are embarrassing...
Edit2: I gave up trying to show them lit... The camera doesn't like them... Please note that the scale is in centimeters... Not inches... It's barely over an inch long... Yes, it's tiny... Just take a double side tape and stick it to the side of the cluster... And it's watertight... Stuck one in a glass of water o test it...
Last edited by Tweety; 03-31-2010 at 08:17 AM.
03-30-2010, 01:31 PM
#3
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FWIW, I have seen the wet weight listed in various magazines at between 477 and 480 lb. I believe the weight bias is 53/47 (rear to front; not quite as certain about this one).
May I add that I too am curious about this one as I hope to get my VTR on the scale(s) once my PVM wheels are back on....
May I add that I too am curious about this one as I hope to get my VTR on the scale(s) once my PVM wheels are back on....
03-30-2010, 01:43 PM
#4
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FWIW, I have seen the wet weight listed in various magazines at between 477 and 480 lb. I believe the weight bias is 53/47 (rear to front; not quite as certain about this one).
May I add that I too am curious about this one as I hope to get my VTR on the scale(s) once my PVM wheels are back on....
May I add that I too am curious about this one as I hope to get my VTR on the scale(s) once my PVM wheels are back on....
BTW... Thanks... But you still don't get a toy...
03-30-2010, 02:33 PM
#7
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I don't know how accurate bathroom scales are. A 1%-2% error translates to 5-10 lbs.
If the side stand is resting on anything, that will throw you off as well. Two wheels and a side stand. Anybody got a bone stock bike AND three bathroom scales?
You could measure weight at each of the three points with one scale, but then I think you want a same thickness as the scale spacer under the two points not being measured each time.
If the side stand is resting on anything, that will throw you off as well. Two wheels and a side stand. Anybody got a bone stock bike AND three bathroom scales?
You could measure weight at each of the three points with one scale, but then I think you want a same thickness as the scale spacer under the two points not being measured each time.
Last edited by RK1; 03-30-2010 at 02:45 PM.
03-30-2010, 02:34 PM
#8
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Well, you are all free to post comparative numbers... I'll post my numbers when I have something to compare them too, but only stock bikes can win something...
Actually... Just for the OCMD crowd, I'll add another competition class...
Just since you three where the first to show up... This time it's winner takes all, no second prices... It's lowest total weight... Weighting and information same as above... Time for posting runs out when I get the two OEM numbers...It's a free competition for all modded VTR's... No difference if you have fairings or if it's a streetfighter... You still need to have the original frame though, and it has to be as you are normally riding it... Not taking of fairings or other stuff to skew the numbers... A full and comprehensive list of mods needs to be included to compete...
Again, I'm judge and jury... No appeals... I figure a third one+postage won't kill me...
mikstr, 8541hawk... On yer marks... ready... GO!
Last edited by Tweety; 03-30-2010 at 03:21 PM.
03-30-2010, 03:08 PM
#11
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I don't know how accurate bathroom scales are. A 1%-2% error translates to 5-10 lbs.
If the side stand is resting on anything, that will throw you off as well. Two wheels and a side stand. Anybody got a bone stock bike AND three bathroom scales?
You could measure weight at each of the three points with one scale, but then I think you want a same thickness as the scale spacer under the two points not being measured each time.
If the side stand is resting on anything, that will throw you off as well. Two wheels and a side stand. Anybody got a bone stock bike AND three bathroom scales?
You could measure weight at each of the three points with one scale, but then I think you want a same thickness as the scale spacer under the two points not being measured each time.
And the the height difference is negated since the difference is the same front & back.... Although the point about the side-stand is valid though... I'll edit the post above...
03-30-2010, 03:13 PM
#12
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See post #8... If you think you can beat a streetfighter like VTS bike, you could very well win a toy...
And no, there will be no more! Two toys to the first two to post accurate weights for a stock bike, and one for the lightest modified bike... That's it...
(I'll gladly sell one though...)
And no, there will be no more! Two toys to the first two to post accurate weights for a stock bike, and one for the lightest modified bike... That's it...
(I'll gladly sell one though...)
Last edited by Tweety; 03-30-2010 at 03:15 PM.
03-30-2010, 03:17 PM
#14
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03-30-2010, 03:46 PM
#15
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Yeah on front to rear minimal. Just saying- I think the easiest way to handle the side stand issue (and eliminate even the minimal F/R) would be make sure both tires and side stand are resting on the same plane when you take each of the three measurements. Just needs two pieces of wood (or books, whatever) instead of one.
Last edited by RK1; 03-30-2010 at 03:51 PM.
03-30-2010, 03:54 PM
#16
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It should be accurate enough to balance the bike without using the side-stand though... If the bike is level with something under the other wheel it's a bonus, just as long as it's done the exact same on both ends and specified in the post it doesn't matter to me...
03-30-2010, 04:01 PM
#17
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Well, if the side-stand is level with both wheels, you have part of the weight on it... It should be accurate enough to balance the bike without using the side-stand though... If the bike is level with something under the other wheel it's a bonus, just as long as it's done the exact same on both ends and specified in the post it doesn't matter to me...
It should be accurate enough to balance the bike without using the side-stand though... If the bike is level with something under the other wheel it's a bonus, just as long as it's done the exact same on both ends and specified in the post it doesn't matter to me...
03-30-2010, 06:39 PM
#20
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429 full tank of gas
OK, so I just got the bike out and was trying to verify what I measured last fall the past weekend. I am not sure and certainly was not a math or physics major, but I think you have to have the bike level to be accurate. Otherwise the end being weighed is always going to be lighter (I think there is a trig formula for that) and the total weight will be underestimated. It might not amount to much in real world. But I rolled one end onto a 2x4 the same height as the scale at the other end just to keep it level. 2 scales would be ideal.
OK, so I just got the bike out and was trying to verify what I measured last fall the past weekend. I am not sure and certainly was not a math or physics major, but I think you have to have the bike level to be accurate. Otherwise the end being weighed is always going to be lighter (I think there is a trig formula for that) and the total weight will be underestimated. It might not amount to much in real world. But I rolled one end onto a 2x4 the same height as the scale at the other end just to keep it level. 2 scales would be ideal.
03-30-2010, 06:51 PM
#21
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I just did a quick calculation and think I should be down by close to 60 lbs, which would put me very close to or just under Bill (once my PVMs are back on of course). Looking forward to getting it up on the scale to know for sure...
03-30-2010, 08:52 PM
#23
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This sounds like an awesome number, Honda claims 427 dry on all the old brochures I've held on to.
429 wet.
I am thinking your forks are heavier than stock, swingarm heavier too? Rear cowl a wash, wheels lighter, 520 chain if I remember correct, more weight savings. Handlebar kit over stk clipons a wash too? I guess I need to go back and revisit your bike Bill. I am not ripping on you or your bike in any way as a matter of fact I don't think there isn't much if anything I would change, I'm just trying to figure out where 50-70lbs weight savings came from.
Tweety how accurate do you think the weigh station at the local dump is?
Why not ride up and then subtract your weight including all gear?
I think we are going to see a major spike on bathroom scale sales.
429 wet.
I am thinking your forks are heavier than stock, swingarm heavier too? Rear cowl a wash, wheels lighter, 520 chain if I remember correct, more weight savings. Handlebar kit over stk clipons a wash too? I guess I need to go back and revisit your bike Bill. I am not ripping on you or your bike in any way as a matter of fact I don't think there isn't much if anything I would change, I'm just trying to figure out where 50-70lbs weight savings came from.
Tweety how accurate do you think the weigh station at the local dump is?
Why not ride up and then subtract your weight including all gear?
I think we are going to see a major spike on bathroom scale sales.
Last edited by VTS; 03-30-2010 at 08:53 PM. Reason: grammar
03-30-2010, 09:03 PM
#25
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You're killing me. Are you even close?
How bout you put all the parts in boxes, weigh them, and then total them.
Of course all the front end parts in one box, so on and so forth.
Can we even see some progress pictures, how do we even know that you even own a Superhawk?
Captain facade is more like it. (pronounced fa-sawd)
03-31-2010, 04:16 AM
#26
Out of my mind, back in 5
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429 full tank of gas
OK, so I just got the bike out and was trying to verify what I measured last fall the past weekend. I am not sure and certainly was not a math or physics major, but I think you have to have the bike level to be accurate. Otherwise the end being weighed is always going to be lighter (I think there is a trig formula for that) and the total weight will be underestimated. It might not amount to much in real world. But I rolled one end onto a 2x4 the same height as the scale at the other end just to keep it level. 2 scales would be ideal.
OK, so I just got the bike out and was trying to verify what I measured last fall the past weekend. I am not sure and certainly was not a math or physics major, but I think you have to have the bike level to be accurate. Otherwise the end being weighed is always going to be lighter (I think there is a trig formula for that) and the total weight will be underestimated. It might not amount to much in real world. But I rolled one end onto a 2x4 the same height as the scale at the other end just to keep it level. 2 scales would be ideal.
03-31-2010, 04:45 AM
#27
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It's probably a good thing I'm not competing for the prize here... You'd be miffed...Front 209.5, rear 190... 399.5 total... (And yes, that with the front and rear level at the time of measurement)
That's with a full tank of gas, the stock toolkit and a few extras in there and the heavy stock battery... As it sits ready to roll... Those things should be another couple pounds of the back end... I'm guessing around 4 for the battery (also moving the boxes) and 1-2 pounds or so for the extra tools?
Come on... Someone with a streetfighter has to be able to do better than me?
Last edited by Tweety; 03-31-2010 at 04:47 AM.
03-31-2010, 05:53 AM
#28
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It's probably a good thing I'm not competing for the prize here... You'd be miffed...Front 209.5, rear 190... 399.5 total... (And yes, that with the front and rear level at the time of measurement)
That's with a full tank of gas, the stock toolkit and a few extras in there and the heavy stock battery... As it sits ready to roll... Those things should be another couple pounds of the back end... I'm guessing around 4 for the battery (also moving the boxes) and 1-2 pounds or so for the extra tools?
Come on... Someone with a streetfighter has to be able to do better than me?
03-31-2010, 10:50 AM
#30
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Tweety: I may have to reweight mine! that sounds amazing and i would have thought we were fairly close in weights. are you using lighter gas!!! My weight distribution was 52/48% I believe. I will try to reweigh in the next couple days for kicks - I would like to get 2 scales at same time but not sure I can find them.
VTS: much of the weight loss comes from stock exhaust (cans are huge, full system also heavy compared to the moriwaki titanium header). the front end was actually lighter with triples and forks vs. stock even though beefier. the wheels were another big change. rear hub and cush drive was like an anchor on the SH vs. the RC51 and even more so with the OZ wheels. Swingarm was actually lighter though braced, vs. stock. Rearsets. Lost passenger pegs and mounts. Rear tail section and stock seat and rear signals were another bit of weight. I did weigh things as I was swapping wheelsets and compare dthem to stock and posted a while back also. Oh, and I used lighter pistons - hahaha
VTS: much of the weight loss comes from stock exhaust (cans are huge, full system also heavy compared to the moriwaki titanium header). the front end was actually lighter with triples and forks vs. stock even though beefier. the wheels were another big change. rear hub and cush drive was like an anchor on the SH vs. the RC51 and even more so with the OZ wheels. Swingarm was actually lighter though braced, vs. stock. Rearsets. Lost passenger pegs and mounts. Rear tail section and stock seat and rear signals were another bit of weight. I did weigh things as I was swapping wheelsets and compare dthem to stock and posted a while back also. Oh, and I used lighter pistons - hahaha
