Newbie Questions
12-27-2007, 01:14 PM
#1
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Newbie Questions
Hi all...I am the proud owner of a low mileage SH. I have only been biking for 2 years, with a 500cc Cruiser, and then only commuting 20kms to work and back daily.
I bought a stunning SH from a friend that owns a bike shop, the SH was his wife's bike....
Having only had the bike for 2 weeks I have adapted to the different style of riding quite fast, but one problem remains...the numb and painfull wrists....You see we have some awesome biking routes here in sunny South Africa, and every Saturday and Sunday there are numerous "breakfast runs" to various locations...But I am afraid, my 47yr old wrists is not gonna play along....
So...does Heli bars really work?..If I order the goods online and have it shipped to SA, they will cost a helluva lot, due to our weak currency, and I do not want to make a mistake.
Secondly, the bike does not idle constantly at a given RPM, instead it hunts up & down from 800rpm to 1500rpm, how do I solve this?
The bike specs is quite neat...braided hoses, Yoshimura 2 into 1, tail tidy, carbon hugger, I just need to get the correct double bubble, as the wind is quite pesky over 120km/h.
I must compliment you all on an awesome forum, I have picked up many tips browsing all the posts, and it is great to know there will always be a place where biking (SH) problems can be solved..
Keep up the good work.
Gerrit de la Rey
www.formulagti.com
I bought a stunning SH from a friend that owns a bike shop, the SH was his wife's bike....
Having only had the bike for 2 weeks I have adapted to the different style of riding quite fast, but one problem remains...the numb and painfull wrists....You see we have some awesome biking routes here in sunny South Africa, and every Saturday and Sunday there are numerous "breakfast runs" to various locations...But I am afraid, my 47yr old wrists is not gonna play along....
So...does Heli bars really work?..If I order the goods online and have it shipped to SA, they will cost a helluva lot, due to our weak currency, and I do not want to make a mistake.
Secondly, the bike does not idle constantly at a given RPM, instead it hunts up & down from 800rpm to 1500rpm, how do I solve this?
The bike specs is quite neat...braided hoses, Yoshimura 2 into 1, tail tidy, carbon hugger, I just need to get the correct double bubble, as the wind is quite pesky over 120km/h.
I must compliment you all on an awesome forum, I have picked up many tips browsing all the posts, and it is great to know there will always be a place where biking (SH) problems can be solved..
Keep up the good work.
Gerrit de la Rey
www.formulagti.com
12-27-2007, 01:36 PM
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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What part of SA? My parents are close to Nelspruit.
Anywho, I have heard Heli bars work, as do VFR bars with a little work. (earlier VFR bars IIRC)
I find that if I just adjust how I am leaning and where the wind hits my chest at speed, there isn't much weight on my wrists with the stock bars.
Anywho, I have heard Heli bars work, as do VFR bars with a little work. (earlier VFR bars IIRC)
I find that if I just adjust how I am leaning and where the wind hits my chest at speed, there isn't much weight on my wrists with the stock bars.
12-27-2007, 01:47 PM
#3
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Newbie Questions
I Live in Midrand...the Silicon Valley of SA 
Nelspruit is awesome...and the roads that take you there is ultimate biking country.
I have noticed that distance riding is easier, town riding is hell though ..all the stop-start is hell on my wrists.
But this is such an awesome bike, that I believe I will enjoy it a lot more with a bit more comfort.
Gerrit
Nelspruit is awesome...and the roads that take you there is ultimate biking country.
I have noticed that distance riding is easier, town riding is hell though ..all the stop-start is hell on my wrists.
But this is such an awesome bike, that I believe I will enjoy it a lot more with a bit more comfort.
Gerrit
12-27-2007, 02:11 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 387
I am 47 and have ridden for 30+ years. I too am getting used to the riding position as my previous bikes all had "flattrack" style bars. Two things...well..three. Use your knees and legs more. It sounds lame but it's true. Just become aware and start using the legs, back, and knees to support more weight and soon it will be a habit you won't think about. I'm halfway there. Two, get someHeliBars, or convert to regular bars above the top triples. Three, if and when you start to ride fast enough in the corners to wear your tires all the way out to the edges...you will probably want to go back to the stock bars as you'll want to be right on top of that front wheel. If you get Helis or above triple bars...keep your stockers. Have fun and remember...weight on your toes, squeeze the tank with your knees unless you're hanging off one side or the other, look through the corner for your exit, push the right bar away to drop in right, left for left, instead of pulling in the opposing bar.
Read this forum from front to back.
Read this forum from front to back.
12-27-2007, 02:23 PM
#5
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Newbie Questions
He he thanks Mr Redman....OK so I am not going crazy, as I have been doing just that, squeezing the tankd with my thights, and keeping my arms bent....trying various postures to sort of accommodat the bike...kewl...so I am on the right track...
I did see in the "Helibar" post that there is a suggestion to machine away the locating pin of the clipons, as this will allow one to move the bars a bit more straight....
Also is it acceptable to lift the clipons level with the top washer on the fork, as that will also give a few xtra millimeters...
I want to try this, but is removing the locating pin not a safety risk?
Sometimes a few millimeteers in either direction can make the difference.
Thanks for the replies and advice
Gerrit
I did see in the "Helibar" post that there is a suggestion to machine away the locating pin of the clipons, as this will allow one to move the bars a bit more straight....
Also is it acceptable to lift the clipons level with the top washer on the fork, as that will also give a few xtra millimeters...
I want to try this, but is removing the locating pin not a safety risk?
Sometimes a few millimeteers in either direction can make the difference.
Thanks for the replies and advice
Gerrit
12-27-2007, 02:48 PM
#6
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If you have to put so much force into the bars that they'd spin without the locating pin, you'd really be doing something wrong. I don't think most after market clip-ons, even those used for racing, have locating pins.
12-27-2007, 03:14 PM
#7
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12-27-2007, 04:36 PM
#9
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the carbs do that when out they need synchronizing - easy to do as a first step and part of a simple tune up.
heli's are nice, not so much for the rise on these bikes but because of the change in angle which sometimes relieves some of that wrist stress. must be all of us 47 yo relate to this thread and are posting. Other options include spiegler superbike bars which essentially change the top triple clamp to the old tubular handlebars and you can pick any shape you want - that full set up can also get pricey, BUT others have modified the stock clamp very cheaply - search and there are some nice picture threads showing that - but drilling and adding some bar clamps. For me its the wrists and also on long days riding my neck - this option takes that away completely. converts it to more of an aprilia tuono riding position
good luck
heli's are nice, not so much for the rise on these bikes but because of the change in angle which sometimes relieves some of that wrist stress. must be all of us 47 yo relate to this thread and are posting. Other options include spiegler superbike bars which essentially change the top triple clamp to the old tubular handlebars and you can pick any shape you want - that full set up can also get pricey, BUT others have modified the stock clamp very cheaply - search and there are some nice picture threads showing that - but drilling and adding some bar clamps. For me its the wrists and also on long days riding my neck - this option takes that away completely. converts it to more of an aprilia tuono riding position
good luck
12-28-2007, 01:12 AM
#10
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You might also want to check the TPS to see if it's set correctly
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...&highlight=tps
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...&highlight=tps
Last edited by 8541Hawk; 12-28-2007 at 01:15 AM.
12-28-2007, 05:53 AM
#12
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+ 1 on the Heli bars.
+ 1 on the use of abdominal muscles to take the weight off wrists
+ 1 on keeping elbows bent
Also highly recommend a Sargent World Sport saddle. The stock VTR seat is angled towards the front of the bike and puts your weight on your wrists. The Sargent seat is flatter making it easier to put your weight on your butt.
Install fat hand grips.
Wear gloves that have padded palms.
Loosen your grip on the bars.
Drive fast.
Geoff in Almonte
99 VTR (for sale)
04 Guzzi
+ 1 on the use of abdominal muscles to take the weight off wrists
+ 1 on keeping elbows bent
Also highly recommend a Sargent World Sport saddle. The stock VTR seat is angled towards the front of the bike and puts your weight on your wrists. The Sargent seat is flatter making it easier to put your weight on your butt.
Install fat hand grips.
Wear gloves that have padded palms.
Loosen your grip on the bars.
Drive fast.
Geoff in Almonte
99 VTR (for sale)
04 Guzzi
12-28-2007, 06:52 AM
#13
Out of my mind, back in 5
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It wasn't designed to keep my manly bits safe from getting squished, thats for sure...
12-28-2007, 07:37 AM
#14
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Congress, AZ
Posts: 12
Hi all...I am the proud owner of a low mileage SH. I have only been biking for 2 years, with a 500cc Cruiser, and then only commuting 20kms to work and back daily.
I bought a stunning SH from a friend that owns a bike shop, the SH was his wife's bike....
Having only had the bike for 2 weeks I have adapted to the different style of riding quite fast, but one problem remains...the numb and painfull wrists....You see we have some awesome biking routes here in sunny South Africa, and every Saturday and Sunday there are numerous "breakfast runs" to various locations...But I am afraid, my 47yr old wrists is not gonna play along....
So...does Heli bars really work?..If I order the goods online and have it shipped to SA, they will cost a helluva lot, due to our weak currency, and I do not want to make a mistake.
Secondly, the bike does not idle constantly at a given RPM, instead it hunts up & down from 800rpm to 1500rpm, how do I solve this?
The bike specs is quite neat...braided hoses, Yoshimura 2 into 1, tail tidy, carbon hugger, I just need to get the correct double bubble, as the wind is quite pesky over 120km/h.
I must compliment you all on an awesome forum, I have picked up many tips browsing all the posts, and it is great to know there will always be a place where biking (SH) problems can be solved..
Keep up the good work.
Gerrit de la Rey
www.formulagti.com
I bought a stunning SH from a friend that owns a bike shop, the SH was his wife's bike....
Having only had the bike for 2 weeks I have adapted to the different style of riding quite fast, but one problem remains...the numb and painfull wrists....You see we have some awesome biking routes here in sunny South Africa, and every Saturday and Sunday there are numerous "breakfast runs" to various locations...But I am afraid, my 47yr old wrists is not gonna play along....
So...does Heli bars really work?..If I order the goods online and have it shipped to SA, they will cost a helluva lot, due to our weak currency, and I do not want to make a mistake.
Secondly, the bike does not idle constantly at a given RPM, instead it hunts up & down from 800rpm to 1500rpm, how do I solve this?
The bike specs is quite neat...braided hoses, Yoshimura 2 into 1, tail tidy, carbon hugger, I just need to get the correct double bubble, as the wind is quite pesky over 120km/h.
I must compliment you all on an awesome forum, I have picked up many tips browsing all the posts, and it is great to know there will always be a place where biking (SH) problems can be solved..
Keep up the good work.
Gerrit de la Rey
www.formulagti.com
12-28-2007, 11:41 AM
#16
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Newbie Clipons
I actually loosened the clipons, and moved them both about 5 mm, from the locating position without cutting away the locating pin, thus raising them 5mm, to be level withthe top washer on the fork tube. See pics
This small adjustment in having the clipon more straight has removed the unnatural bend in my wrists and it feels much much better.
Will get some thicker grips tomorrow as well, as the standard grips are way to small.
Gerrit
This small adjustment in having the clipon more straight has removed the unnatural bend in my wrists and it feels much much better.
Will get some thicker grips tomorrow as well, as the standard grips are way to small.
Gerrit
12-28-2007, 12:42 PM
#17
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lithia, FL
Posts: 2,091
Welcome Gerrit;
I've got a set of rises that help, so take a look at these bar risers I found on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/H-BAR-RISER-VFR7...sid=p1638.m122
They may help you, but even the risers wont totally get rid of the problem if you put too much weight on your wrists...
I've got a set of rises that help, so take a look at these bar risers I found on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/H-BAR-RISER-VFR7...sid=p1638.m122
They may help you, but even the risers wont totally get rid of the problem if you put too much weight on your wrists...
12-28-2007, 02:10 PM
#20
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,572
Welcome to the forum... 
I have Helibars and would definitely recommend them and an aftermarket seat - I picked up my bars and seat off ebay for a lot less than the cost of new so keep checking around on there unless you are in a hurry to get them.
I have Helibars and would definitely recommend them and an aftermarket seat - I picked up my bars and seat off ebay for a lot less than the cost of new so keep checking around on there unless you are in a hurry to get them.
12-31-2007, 06:56 AM
#22
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
Also if you are interested in a good thicker grip that is still sporty and soft grippy feeling look into these. They can be hard to find at a dealer, but worth the hunt. I use the Road Grips on my VTR and MX grips on my SuperMoto/DirtBike, these grips are soft, but not spongie.
Oury Grips
http://www.ourygrips.com/grips_menu.html#
12-31-2007, 08:22 AM
#23
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Location: Skurup, Sweden
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It's actually rather undersized as it is, you can verify that by measuring the voltage output to your headlamp at anything above 3000 rpm's... it should be above 12.5V to match the spec on the bulbs... I'm pretty certain it's not...I have not yet seen above 12V on any pre -04 Honda... The result is that the bulb glows yellowish instead of bright white... And it usually only gets worse with a higher output bulb...
A much better idea is to run a thick wire directly from the battery (with a fuse) to 2 relays, connected to the normal headlamp connector, I have done this, it means the small stock wires and switches run very low currents, but the headlight gets full voltage switched through the relays...
The result is a lot better output from your stock bulb and the relays and cable will handle a very high powered bulb if you wan't to... In my case I never bothered... The stock bulb was plenty bright enough once it was fed enough juice....
If you aren't handy with electronics, this site sells pre-made wiring looms for this type of job... http://easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
Last edited by Tweety; 12-31-2007 at 08:29 AM.
12-31-2007, 05:23 PM
#25
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Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 387
That easternbeaver link and relay kit is great. Thanks Tweety.....I'll hook that up next. I wasn't aware that there wasn't a relay stock...lame. I rewired my BSA from scratch and ran relays...works a charm. The price of 50bux is worth the hassle, measuring, cutting, soldering, sourcing relays etc. About 30 bux in parts anyway!
12-31-2007, 08:54 PM
#26
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SuperSport
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Eagle, ID.
Posts: 599
Gerritdlr:
I had problems with my wrists and hands until I purchased the Alpinestar GP Plus gloves which all but eliminated the vibration and my wrist/hand problems.
Regarding the headlight, replace your stock with the PIAA or Silvania Ultra Bright H4 bulb. I found that the PIAA was four times brighter than the stock bulb.
The fluctuating idle, is that after the bike is warmed up or is it doing that while cold? Did the PO perform any aftermarket modifications to the carbs? A Dynajet of Factory Pro kit? I had a similar problem after installing a FP carb kit and what solved the problem was re-installing the stock slow jets and of course synching the carbs.
I had problems with my wrists and hands until I purchased the Alpinestar GP Plus gloves which all but eliminated the vibration and my wrist/hand problems.
Regarding the headlight, replace your stock with the PIAA or Silvania Ultra Bright H4 bulb. I found that the PIAA was four times brighter than the stock bulb.
The fluctuating idle, is that after the bike is warmed up or is it doing that while cold? Did the PO perform any aftermarket modifications to the carbs? A Dynajet of Factory Pro kit? I had a similar problem after installing a FP carb kit and what solved the problem was re-installing the stock slow jets and of course synching the carbs.
12-31-2007, 09:22 PM
#27
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01-01-2008, 02:29 AM
#29
Out of my mind, back in 5
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ALL H4 bulbs are speced to have 12.5-13V as a baseline voltage and if you drop below 12.5V you loose 25-30% of the total output in Lux rather fast... I think there was a good explanation on Sylvanias site...
01-01-2008, 02:33 AM
#30
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Oh btw... I did try the same 80/100W bulb after the relays were installed... Damn! that's bright... Once it burned out tho I didn't bother to replace it with another... I'm running a cheap, but good Sylvania ultrabright bulb with stock wattage, and that is plenty good enough for me...
