cscrawford

I did it! Next Thursday I'm flying one way from Dallas to Denver to pickup a new in-the-crate 2003 Superhawk.
...But there's a small problem. I don't have a service manual yet, and am looking at 600+ miles if I B-line to Dallas, but that would suck. I want to ride through the mountains and possibly visit a buddy in Taos, NM about 350 miles from Denver, and then I'm looking at maybe 800 miles back to Dallas.
That puts me way past the first service which I think is 600 miles (anybody know???). The Taos honda dealer was zero help and I'm having trouble tracking down a Santa Fe Honda dealer.

It's a Honda so I don't have mechanical concerns, but I'm afraid if I don't get it officially serviced around 600, I'll void my warranty, or worse, actually do damage. Do they really need to check the valve lash at 600 miles? Seems kind of soon.

Every streetbike I've ever owned had been downed. This is my first newbie and I really want to take great care of it, and am thrilled I won't be inherriting someone else's issues.

Thanks for any help. And if anybody wants a new on the floor 2003 in Blue, zero miles or close to it...email me. I think they've got one left.

I'm stoked!

Randman

Hmmm..interesting, all those miles on a Brand spanking new Hawk..hmmm that hurts just thinking about it LOL... Wish I had more to offer...Good luck with that one...

cscrawford

Any chance you'd share that Ermey link? That's the best!

lazn

You could always do it the mototune way: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I never have, but who knows?

SuperLoud

Ride to Big D first - get your bike serviced at the dealer - repack and then go to the mtns.
Your ***, neck and wrists will appreciate the break from the first 600 miles.

I bought my SH new from a dealer. Flew into Madison WI and drove it back home - 660 miles - straight thru - in the rain. Needless to say I immediately got some heli-bars on ebay and started looking for some seat mods.

congrats and good luck

shane

superbling

If you are really worried, get the oil changed at a honda dealer at or around the 600 mile mark and keep the receipt. Try to avoid as much steady throttle riding as possible (mountain riding=no problems) for engine break in.

I would almost guarantee your bike won't need ANY warranty work in the first 12 months. Don't stress too much about it, enjoy your trip, sounds like a lot of fun.

Also, prepare for the heat once you hit east NM/Texas.

Hawkrider

This is what I recommend. If the dealer is good then you can fanagle (sp?) an oil change at 50 miles. I recommend you spend an hour riding around at various speeds and rpm. Bring it back to the dealer. Have them change the oil and filter and then get on with your trip. Do the 600 mile as soon as you get back. Most of the metal particles and such are loosened in the motor in the first 25-50 miles anyway. Just be careful of the tires. And if there's any way you can bargain getting those stock POS 204s off and get some decent rubber spooned on before delivery that would be the way to go. Even pay an extra $100 or so for them. It'll be worth it. Just bundle the cost into the loan.

azhawk1

I fully agree ! with hawkrider ! or stopbye flagstaff az and have my dealership (employer) do your breakin and then finish the trip from here through n.m.

cscrawford

10-4 on the frequent, multiple oil changes. Relatively cheap insuance.

As far as riding to Dallas first... I would just be giving up too much opportunity, and that would definitely break the first rule of "vary speed and engine RPMs." Watching grass grow is more exciting than that drive. I've been through worse so the trip shouldn't kill me. I'll have some overnights.

Tires...yikes. What to watch for? Will 4 years in a crate harden them up? Do they give less warning than when new, or did these tires just have poor performance from day one? Predictability is good! Let me know what to expect. Sand the chicken strips with 60 grit? Pray? I won't be changing them until I get home. I can lay off the lean angles if need be. I'm going to be wearing a knee brace under my pants from my ankle to my crotch and won't be pushing things too hard. (recovering from a knee fracture).

Last questions....Does anyone recommend: FACTORY service manual, Haynes Manual, or Clymer?

And Does anybody know when they recommend the first valve adjustment? Someone told me 600 miles (that sounds nutz, it's a Honda not an MGB )
Thanks!

Hawkrider

YES
YES
YES!
YES
Call ahead. Pay them to put new tires on. You DO NOT want those tires! That's my recommendation. Buuuuut, you're right in that if you're doing almost all highway riding then you may as well put them to good use for ONLY that purpose and changing them out for Qualifiers or Powers when you get back home. Oh, and do a BIG, smoky burnout with the 204s before you get rid of them. Posted pics on the forum are a requirement.
Download the factory manual. The link is in the KB.

gboezio

I agree with all of the above and I really suggest a hard break in

vtrgeoff

+1 on all of the recommendations thus far.

Dont get yer knickers in a twist wrt valve adjustment....I have almost 120,000km on my 99 'Storm and the valves are still within spec.

I have them checked at the recommended intervals, but have not had to adjust them yet.

Enjoy your trip.
Enjoy your Hawk. It's a great ride.

But you will soon be shopping for HeliBars and a Sargent saddle.

And a set of slipons to annoy the tree huggers/quiet pipe crowd.

Cheers!

Geoff in Almonte
99VTR

cscrawford

You read my mind on the smoky. If I can find the right spot and a buddy with a camera I'll be sure to put on the smokeshow after I get back!

superbling

Get an NEP throttle lock for the drone. Best $25 you'll spend for a trip. Installs in minutes (seconds if you're familiar with them). Make sure it's for a Honda.

I did the same as you when I bought a bandit 1200S off fleabay. Rode it home from Florida. These are very comfortable bikes (upright seating position plus it came with a corbin) yet I still caved and stopped in Houston to install one (I did I-10 across the south).

itsjason13

I couldn't agree more about changing the oil at 50 miles, then again at 600...some guys would even suggest an oil change at 1 mile, then 50, then 600.

Those initial, tiny metal particles can cut unwanted groves, put tiny knicks the valves, etc. etc. I believe the first 50 miles can be very important in the engines life...

I 'second' keeping the variable throttle going during your trip. You'll want to break in those rings as evenly as possible, without deep wear groves...so don't maintain the same rpm for too long.

ALSO, in the manual, I think it mentioned not to go over 5K rpm before the first 600 miles or so....is that correct anyone??? Is that really a valid limit???

superbling

TONS o' debate on that one. Thanks for kicking the sleeping dog!

VTRBandit

Man I hope you arent very tall! With a recovering knee injury such as that and the tight quarters of the pegs and tank and everything, you had better do plenty of stretches before hand and prepare yourself mentally for the trip. I only speak from my own experience, then again, Im probably the tallest (maybe even fattest) guy to ride a SHawk!

bowhawk

A friend of mine has been putting magnets on his oil filter for years. I think you can now buy a magnet that fits over the filter like a glove. He swears by it for break in periods.

Randman

Interesting...hmmm..sounds somewhat logical...

Will a magnet stick to the filter? I suppose so, but would it stay...dunno...

cscrawford

I read the link from MotoMan on the hard break in. Pretty compelling information, and I will do it, or a variation of it. I'll definitely try to get an early oil change in, and probably another before 600 miles. It would be good to hear from some pro mechanics on this subject. It sounds like MotoMan is one.

Also, does anyone have the link on that throttle locker gizmo? My neighbor has a thing that looks like a plastic dog tonque wrapped around his grip. Said it works great to take the load off his wrist/hand. It's a single piece of plastic, but I'm not sure what it's called. I ordered a tail bag, audio gizmo for my V1, and some Powerlet goodies today so I can run it. Everything.

-Chris

SNGPerformance

I'm a Lexus Mechanic and I used to assemble bikes for a living.

Hard break-in! Hard break-in! Hard break-in!
I also agree with working the oil change, at 50 miles, into the deal with the dealer. Just get on, give her the beans for a bit and go right back to the dealer and change the oil. Then go to your buddy's through the mountains (stay away from the highway during break-in). NO WORRIES!!

Scooberhawk

I didn't have to say it. Do what he said!

Scooberhawk

Heh heh heh. I feel like throwing in my two cents on this one.

I am of the opinion that moving throughout the rev range is a good thing on break-in. I would avoid WOT, but some may disagree.

Basically, if I were trying to keep up with a group of riders, I'd sooner rev smoothly to 8.5 grand at 3/4 throttle than go WOT at low revs in a higher gear.

cscrawford

Thanks guys. I'm out of the dark and have a plan. Special thanks to whoever sent the MotoMan link.
-Chris

Randman

Yup, **** the hell out of it, take it back for the lube change, then ride that pig like your date on Prom night, buy her something pretty when you get her back to Dallas, then love her long time!!! Words of Wisdom...

superbling

No that is not a throttle lock rather it's called a throttle rocker. I've never understood the popularity of something that only does have the job. You can't take your right hand off the bar with it. NOTE: I'm talking about on long straights here.

Just about every dealership carries NEP or Vista Cruise throttle locks. These will lock the throttle down tight enough for you to remove your right hand (on the straights) for some serious relief. GREAT for interstates. I find the NEP's work better than Vista Cruise and are about the same price. Both have been around since the 70's or earlier. You can still return the throttle even with them in the locked position; quiet safe if you have concerns.

itsjason13

A filter mag is a good idea, I suppose. I have had one on my MR2 for years now...but who knows if it's really working. Theoretically, if you use a filter magnet on an engine from zero miles -> on...it's supposed to at least double the life of the engine internals...but who knows for sure?

The guy that told me about the magnets, said he was going to take the filter (w/ mag) from his Miata and hack-saw it in half to see if it was really collecting any metallic particles at all...not sure if he ever did.

Having one does make me feel a little more warm & cozy though...that's all the proof of results I can give you right now.

cscrawford

Is NEP a brand? I'll see if the dealer has one to install, if not I'll order one.

I agree on the magnet warm & fuzzy. I think the filter would probably pick up any sizeable metal flake, but... does a magnet stick to aluminum? The MotoMan said most of what he finds in engines is aluminum that has coated parts. Aluminum being softer than steel I can see that happening. My guess is aluminum is the metalflake you see in anti-seize pastes for bolt threads.

How about a magnetic drain plug for the bike? I had one in my old M3 and it would sometimes come out with a few flakes. Does anybody have one or no where to get one? My KTM has one from the factory, maybe the SH does?

Hawkrider

The magnet will attract only ferrous metal particles, but those are the hardest and will do the most damage on polished and high tolerance parts. Most anti-sieze pastes have molybdenum disulfide.

Randman

How did you get to be Admin, if you can't speak Engrish!! yes, Engrish..