General Discussion Anything SuperHawk Related

motorcycle lift adapters?

Old Dec 31, 2006 | 05:29 PM
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motorcycle lift adapters?

Does anyone have any info that can help me out? I have a hydraulic m/c lift, the standard kind with two parallel rubber coated skids that lift from under the frame on a standard type bike. I would like to be able to lift the hawk for routine maintenance and suspension measurements, etc. but due to the design of the hawk, I can't find a way to lift the bike. Has anyone ever found any type of adapter that would allow me to lift the bike without doing any damage? I can't believe that there is nothing out there, seeing as how the majority of bikes out there now days use the engine as a stressed member, and have exhaust pipes, filters, or whatever that hang down below any thing that may be suitable to bear the weight of the bike. I'd really rather not buy pit stands and have another thing to store in the garage, when I already have a nice lift. Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.
Old Dec 31, 2006 | 06:33 PM
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I bought a jack just like yours (I bet) and I have never in my life bought such a worthless piece of ****! I spent an entire Sunday afternoon tearing that thing apart, grinding and cutting. I wanted to be able to cruise the jack up under the forks, spindle the little lift points into position and lift the bike - just as you say - routine. I am within two welds of completing the task and would have had it done but my friend had a death in the family and had to leave town. I got pretty drastic with it and I will post pictures of it when I'm done. I'm not sure it will have the stability needed to lift a bike but it was a boat anchor the otherwise - and it may be still! I guarantee you if it drops the 'Hawk it will go swimming!
Old Jan 1, 2007 | 08:06 AM
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That's classic...I considered trying something like that myself, but I don't want to modify the lift b/c I want to still be able to use it on other makes. If your lift hurts the hawk, let it "swim with the fishes".
Old Jan 1, 2007 | 08:18 AM
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These jacks are designed for cradle framed bikes. Like Harleys and 80s standards. They're a compact, cheap alternative if you have the right bike. We don't.
Old Jan 1, 2007 | 10:54 AM
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You guys are making things too difficult for yourselves, I've been using mine for years now with some flat steel I bought at an auto parts store until I got my race stands. I think I paid like $5, just put them across the rubber parts and line them up with the cooling fins on the pan. I still use it with fork work because I haven't ordered the attachment to lift by the triple.. You just have to make sure the jack is far enough in that it doesn't hit the exhaust and you're golden. Depending on what I'm doing I'll position the bike accordingly,(taking off the front wheel position back etc.). If you have a couple of pieces of rubber put them on top to keep it from shifting but as long as it's tied down I've yet to have a problem.
Old Jan 1, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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I do the same thing with small 2X4 sections of wood. works OK and I use tiedowns to cinch the bike to the lift if I'm removing a wheel.
Old Jan 1, 2007 | 11:56 AM
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I guess that'd work as well, just make sure you use the tie downs or it WILL fall off.
Old Jan 1, 2007 | 02:16 PM
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Very cool. I appreciate the advice. That's just the kind of stuff I was hoping for (cheap and readily available). Do any of you have the approx. spacing of the 2x4's apart, or advice on exactly where I want them to sit?
Old Jan 1, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by superhawk22
You guys are making things too difficult for yourselves, I've been using mine for years now with some flat steel I bought at an auto parts store until I got my race stands. I think I paid like $5, just put them across the rubber parts and line them up with the cooling fins on the oil pan. I still use it with fork work because I haven't ordered the attachment to lift by the triple.. You just have to make sure the jack is far enough in that it doesn't hit the exhaust and you're golden. Depending on what I'm doing I'll position the bike accordingly,(taking off the front wheel position back etc.). If you have a couple of pieces of rubber put them on top to keep it from shifting but as long as it's tied down I've yet to have a problem.
No.
Old Jan 1, 2007 | 07:51 PM
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I just use 2x2 and small sheets of plywood and a rear stand as you can see below when i installed new tapered head bearing this past summer. Bike set on the stand for three days. I just use the rachet tie downs and soft ties to stabalize the bike.

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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 08:02 AM
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Thumper,
Be sure to post up some pics when you get the bike back together.
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 08:03 AM
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Just a footnote, Thumper, the manual says to never let the calipers float free like you have them. I would think the brake lines are stong enough but everyone says to tie them off to something like the triple or clipons or the ceiling - just don't let the weight hang on the lines. Nice looking bike BTW
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 01:10 PM
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Pitbull front and rear stands: http://www.pit-bull.com/motorcycle-stands.html

I just bought a pair for my superhawk.
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 05:52 PM
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I've got one of those motorcycle stands. A 2x4 between the 2 rubber coated sides works great. After a few trys, you figure out where the "balance" point is and you can make it stay secure (relativly speaking)... I wouldn't leave it on one unattended without straps.
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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You all talk about straps and tie-downs - are you just strapping the bike to the jack? I don't think I could kick one of those jacks hard enough to knock it over but put a 430lb motorcycle on top of it - I think the bike wins. sort of - ? I've used straps to the rafters of the shop for side to side stability but if that's the case you can lift the bike with a bottle jack. Before I pulled the forks on the 'Hawk for winter rebuild I installed a treated 2x6 across four of the roof trusses above my primary work area. I installed one central lift point but also two outriggers for side to side stability. It works great but you have to have access to the ceiling joist to do it. The little bike jack is mobile and if fitted with the outrigger arms will provide enough stability to lift the Superhawk. Problem is, with the way they are manufactured the jack can't get a decent hold on the bike to lift it as J points out correctly above. When I'm done the jack will still lift a dirt bike by the skid plate, will lift a conventional "frame under" motorcycle, will lift the 'Hawk by the front forks from the side stand position, lift the 'Hawk by the swingarm and in either the front or tail position be capable of removing the tire. (I think ) I think my friend got home from New Orleans today so I'm anxious to get the welds done to see if it's going to work. I will post some pictures when I get it done. The mods to the jack are nothing that a person can with a hacksaw can't handle. That and a box of washers to firm up the arms and you're in business!
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by zimm
Pitbull front and rear stands: http://www.pit-bull.com/motorcycle-stands.html

I just bought a pair for my superhawk.
That works great except in my case when you are yanking the front end off to replace crappy Honda ball bearing assemblies in the triple tree with nice rollar ball bearings.
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by nuhawk
You all talk about straps and tie-downs - are you just strapping the bike to the jack? I don't think I could kick one of those jacks hard enough to knock it over but put a 430lb motorcycle on top of it - I think the bike wins. sort of - ? I've used straps to the rafters of the shop for side to side stability but if that's the case you can lift the bike with a bottle jack. Before I pulled the forks on the 'Hawk for winter rebuild I installed a treated 2x6 across four of the roof trusses above my primary work area. I installed one central lift point but also two outriggers for side to side stability. It works great but you have to have access to the ceiling joist to do it. The little bike jack is mobile and if fitted with the outrigger arms will provide enough stability to lift the Superhawk. Problem is, with the way they are manufactured the jack can't get a decent hold on the bike to lift it as J points out correctly above. When I'm done the jack will still lift a dirt bike by the skid plate, will lift a conventional "frame under" motorcycle, will lift the 'Hawk by the front forks from the side stand position, lift the 'Hawk by the swingarm and in either the front or tail position be capable of removing the tire. (I think ) I think my friend got home from New Orleans today so I'm anxious to get the welds done to see if it's going to work. I will post some pictures when I get it done. The mods to the jack are nothing that a person can with a hacksaw can't handle. That and a box of washers to firm up the arms and you're in business!

I have also done the strap it to the garage pole with tie downs and soft ties to prevent rtip over.
Old Jan 2, 2007 | 08:33 PM
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Once it's tied down to the jack it's actually very stable.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 07:53 PM
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OK, I'm gonna try the 2x4, strap it to the jack idea. I really don't want to cut the lift apart, as I still want to be able to use it on the other bikes. I'm still shocked that no one makes adapters. Seems like these 2 skid m/c lifts are all pretty similar dimensions. Some enterprising sole could market a welded steel contraption that slid over the skids and held the bike securely by whatever points were appropriate. But not me, I mean some OTHER enterprising sole...
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 08:00 PM
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I have seen adapters before, just couldn't find them for sale anywhere but I didn't search real hard because...........well because I'm cheap and my idea worked.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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I didn't think the jack had a big enough face to give it that much stability but that's me wanting to over build everything. I just got a real thing about dropping my bike. This is valuable information though and it gives me confidence that the mods I've made may work afterall. I've cussed that stupid garage sale a hundred times and the twenty bucks that brought me all this intrigue but the light at the end of the tunnel is in view. :-D Then if it drops the Superhawk, it swims with the fishes.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 08:16 PM
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A quick search provided this, like I said I'm too cheap but if you want to try it.

http://www.hugediscountmall.com/Univ...apter_p831.htm
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 08:29 PM
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OOOOOHHHHHHH fucky NOOOOOOOO! That's the muthafucka I cut up!:-D :-D :-D
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 08:43 PM
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Didn't like it I take it? Never seen or used it Sears had one too but it was out of stock. It looked similar to what I use but has 2 studs that go into their new jack and has rubber on it.
Old Jan 3, 2007 | 08:55 PM
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The adaptor is just as useless as the jack itself. If you could hold that thing in your hand and hold it up to the underside of a Superhawk you can go from front to back and never find ANYTHING that it will hook up to! This is down to a matter of pride now in my garage! It's me and my grinder/cutter against the worthless piece of ****.
Old Jan 4, 2007 | 03:49 AM
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rear stand and ratchet straps to the ceiling are the ultimate combination
Old Jan 4, 2007 | 03:49 AM
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 03:50 AM
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 01:42 PM
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That adapter looks like it might actually work. Hmmmm, 2x4 is cheaper, tho.
Old Feb 23, 2007 | 07:42 AM
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I used this thread as a guide, since I didn't like the rinky dink way I jacked up the front end last time I changed tires.

This time I tried a modified "Thumper" (thanks) method. I have a generic rear stand and a (Sam's Club) mororcycle jack.

Support the rear end with the rear stand.
Take off the oil filter cowl.
Put a piece of 1X2 on top of one of the rubber coverd spars on the jack.
Place this so that it's contacting the front end of the oil pan, and is not contacting the front head pipe.
Jack it up.
If you try to support the whole oil pan it lifts the whole bike up, losing contact with the rear stand.

I aligned the jack (cheated to the right) so that I could use a set of canyon dancers and tie downs to secure the bike, but didn't bother after a wiggle test.

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