Thanks, mid 30's in the AM should give me a great opportunity to try them out. As long as it is not sleeting like this morning. LOL...

 

I connected my Hot Grips to the little light above the headlight, that way if U leave them on they will turned off when U pull the key. The Hot Grips have a Hi / Lo toggle switch that I mounted on the left fairing. I've had mine for 2 years & they work very nice.

 

I connected one of these distibution blocks (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103229) to the battery creating 4 pos & neg circuits. For each circuit (which starts with an in-line fuse like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search), such as for my heated grips, I use a relay tripped by an ignitioned switched oem circuit.

 

leave extra length on the wires. I constantly broke mine.

 

I thought about that last night.

Thanks,

 

anything for a fellow post whorer

 

DONT connect directly to the battery; push starts in the cold can only lead to great unhappiness. Make sure whichever circuit you use its non essential, you dont want to blow a headlight fuse due to an abraded grip wire.

 

I've had heated grips on my last 4 bikes and have learned a few things along the way.
Most of the grips are designed for ATV's or sleds and as such don't allow for throttle rotation leading to the eventual failure at the solder joint.
To avoid that, unsolder the wires from the throttle side heating element and resolder them so that they run the length of the element. This places the solder joints at the end of the handle bar and instead of stressing the solder joint just twists the wires.
Position the element so that the wires are at the front of the grip and run parallel to each other. This prevents an unsightly and uncomfortable bulge.
Make sure that you leave enough of a gap between the grip and the switch housing to allow the throttle to return freely.
On the left side I use a throttle tube and grip ( with the throttle cable bellcrank removed ) that is riveted to the handlebar instead of wrapping tape around the clip-on/bar. This is essentially what BMW does and ensures that both sides reach the same temperature.
Power is sourced from the running lights, whether it be the little light above the headlamp or the running lights from either turnsignal.
This provides a fused and switched power source preventing the grips from killing your battery.

Hope this helps.

Kai Ju

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I did not get it done but did get the front tore down a little to see what I want to do. The kids were going crazy wanting to go to Wally world to spend the Christmas cash that was burning a hole in their poor little pockets. LOL.. Probably will not get it tonight either because we are taking our 3-4th grade sunday school class out to a fun station for a late Christmas party.


Anywho: I want to mount the switch in the lower dashboard plastic tab. Should be out of the way yet still easily accessible. The grips are already mounted or I would try to resolder them. I will leave a lot of slack for the throttle movement. I am planning to grab the hot from the little top light. It is fused and easily accessible.

Thanks for everyones input.

 

Can you post some pictures?

 

i used a relay. wired the heater to the battery ( through the relay ) then control the relay with any switched on voltage.

if you use existing wire check the size of the wire vs. the amperage going through it. no need to burn up the harness.

tim