Enlighten me please....
01-16-2007, 11:06 AM
#1
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Enlighten me please....
I am looking at upgrading the headlight on the 'ol VTR and so have been doing a bit of research. So far it seems as though I will be looking at puchasing an Osram (parent company of Sylvania apparently) Silverstar bulb. These supposedly do not have a coating that the Sylvania's have and are said to be slightly better (ie. brighter). The problem lies in the fact that Osrams are not generally available in North America (where Sylvania services the market). I have found a supplier here in Canada that handles Osram products but, and this is so typical, I called them to enquire about ordering the H4 bulb and spoke to some zipper-head who couldn't tell me if they had any in stock unless I could give him a model of car that used them. So, in researching, I found that there is some cross-referencing between H4 and 9003's (apparently the 9003 designation being the North American "equivalent"). Just wondering if anyone can confirm this for me? In other words, can I use a 9003 bulb in my VTR?
cheers
cheers
01-18-2007, 04:08 AM
#7
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Me, I'm looking at a HID conversion kit.
Check out the Blackbird before/after picture on here:
http://www.h-i-d.co.uk/index.shtml
Check out the Blackbird before/after picture on here:
http://www.h-i-d.co.uk/index.shtml
01-21-2007, 06:05 PM
#8
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I just picked up one of the new GE Nighthawk bulbs (#9003, from a local Canadian Tire store) and am looking forward to trying it out. Based on the research I did on the Net, they are said to be slightly better than the Silverstars and have a longer life. Anyhow, it will surely be better than the stock unit. I'll keep you posted....
cheers
cheers
01-26-2007, 07:47 AM
#10
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It's winter here (time to go snowmobiling, not motorcycling) in Montreal so I won't be able to report back on the results until Spring (April at the very earliest). The research I did on the Net (thank God for Google, lol) gives very favourable reports from actual users on the Nighthawks though.
01-26-2007, 08:28 AM
#11
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I just recieved a Trick Tape Xenon superwhite (HID look) 90/ 100W bulb and put it in. Made a HUGE difference over stock. I ride through 20+ miles of State Parks and reclaimed mine land on my way to work (read: DEER, many trophy deer in the area {read: THEY HURT! Hit one 3 days ago on dual sport}). I need all the help I can get this time of year with rain and snow showers, and this definately made a huge difference, just my 2 cents....
01-26-2007, 10:07 AM
#12
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Relay's
If I recall there can be issues on some bikes of burning out your starting circuit over time. They recommend a relay if you are running bulbs with more current draw...I know on the Valyrie this was needed... Any electrical engineers out there?? The deer thing is a threat in our area as well..always good to be able to see better...
Dave:-D
Dave:-D
01-26-2007, 10:47 AM
#13
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I considered running a higher wattage bulb but decided not to for various reasons. One reason was the additional heat generated (melt plastic around bulb? wiring harness?...). The other was a thread writtne by Caffeine Racer some time ago which explained how adding a higher wattage bulb was not the optimal answer due to the restriction created by the stock wiring (do a search, it is well explained). The Nighthawk runs the stock 55/60 power but is said to be noticeably brighter. Also, the light is said to be much whiter thereby enhacing visibility.
02-01-2007, 08:48 AM
#15
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i went to a white 50/65 bulb low beem looks brighter then stock even though its a bit lower wattage and high beem is tons brighter looking. also the small bit of extra wattage isnt enough to hurt the stock wiring.
02-01-2007, 11:04 AM
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Come on now, Run the higher wattage bulb!! I have been running a streetglow 80/100 for over a year now. I did a 5000 mile trip over the summer, and use my bike as a daily transportation to work so the light has plenty of hours on it. There is no sign of heat damage or melting anywhere in my harness and it is cool to the touch while the light is on.
05-03-2008, 03:16 PM
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Sorry for digging up an oldie, folks, but .....
mikstr - any update on this? Did you try running the bulb? How did it compare? I have a few different 9003 bulbs here I wanna swap in and try out, so i'm looking for any possible head's up info.
Also, from what I have read the 9003 bulbs are supposedly not as durable as the H4 bulbs due to their construction. I don't know how true this may/not be, just relaying what I read.
PATIA!
mikstr - any update on this? Did you try running the bulb? How did it compare? I have a few different 9003 bulbs here I wanna swap in and try out, so i'm looking for any possible head's up info.
Also, from what I have read the 9003 bulbs are supposedly not as durable as the H4 bulbs due to their construction. I don't know how true this may/not be, just relaying what I read.
PATIA!
05-03-2008, 03:33 PM
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(falls off chair with stunned look on face)
Holy crap that was fast!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yup, I have some different bulbs I picked up from CT for my CBR from last year that i'm gonna try (GE HB2, Eurolite and Silverstar).
Thanks!
Holy crap that was fast!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yup, I have some different bulbs I picked up from CT for my CBR from last year that i'm gonna try (GE HB2, Eurolite and Silverstar).
Thanks!
06-16-2008, 01:53 PM
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06-16-2008, 03:31 PM
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Actually the best upgrade you can get is to use relays and a larger gauge wire for your headlight...
Take a multimeter and check your output to the headlamp... a H4 bulb gives full brightness above 12.5V, only about 70% below that...
I'm willing to bet that none of you get more than 10-11V though the stock switch wiring... That means your stock bulb is operating at 70%...
Unfortunately the switch and thin stock wiring eats voltage... And that's a potential problem if you put in a higher wattage bulb... increased power draw could lead to overheating in the switch...
Took me a couple of minutes (half hour?) to re-wire with relays and the stock bulb got noticably brighter... Not to mention the difference with a good bulb like the sylvania/osram...
Actually the stock bulb on relays was brighter than a 100W bulb on stock wiring... That was the reason I started investigating since I couldn't figure out why my 100W bulb glowed all yellow...
Take a multimeter and check your output to the headlamp... a H4 bulb gives full brightness above 12.5V, only about 70% below that...
I'm willing to bet that none of you get more than 10-11V though the stock switch wiring... That means your stock bulb is operating at 70%...
Unfortunately the switch and thin stock wiring eats voltage... And that's a potential problem if you put in a higher wattage bulb... increased power draw could lead to overheating in the switch...
Took me a couple of minutes (half hour?) to re-wire with relays and the stock bulb got noticably brighter... Not to mention the difference with a good bulb like the sylvania/osram...
Actually the stock bulb on relays was brighter than a 100W bulb on stock wiring... That was the reason I started investigating since I couldn't figure out why my 100W bulb glowed all yellow...
06-16-2008, 03:43 PM
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I know this is a old thread but here is my .02 on this topic...
True Osram Silver Stars (from Germany) deliver more performance than the Sylvania (US) Silverstars. Osram versions are about as equivalent as the VisionPlus.
Here is a good read for you guys on coated or performance halogen bulbs http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...good/good.html
I also agree on running a relay to the headlight powreed by the battery. This wil give the bulb the best voltage to perform. This is what the CatZ Zeta system was all about a good couple of years ago.
Aside from that, the best lighting option you can do for any bike is a true HID projector retrofit. I'm not talking about those plug and play H4 HID kits as those are junk and your stock halogen housing is not inteded to run that type of lighting. When you throw in one of those kits, your output is often brighter but you won't gain any real significant performance as you would if you went with a HID projector,
True Osram Silver Stars (from Germany) deliver more performance than the Sylvania (US) Silverstars. Osram versions are about as equivalent as the VisionPlus.
Here is a good read for you guys on coated or performance halogen bulbs http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...good/good.html
I also agree on running a relay to the headlight powreed by the battery. This wil give the bulb the best voltage to perform. This is what the CatZ Zeta system was all about a good couple of years ago.
Aside from that, the best lighting option you can do for any bike is a true HID projector retrofit. I'm not talking about those plug and play H4 HID kits as those are junk and your stock halogen housing is not inteded to run that type of lighting. When you throw in one of those kits, your output is often brighter but you won't gain any real significant performance as you would if you went with a HID projector,
Last edited by haknslash; 06-16-2008 at 03:52 PM.
06-16-2008, 03:56 PM
#26
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Well... A HID retrofit is outstanding... But what I was sposed to say above was "best value for money" upgrade is relays and wire... The cost is negligable and the amount of work and expertise needed is minimal... And it's still worlds better than stock...
06-16-2008, 04:44 PM
#27
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It goes like this to me:
-upgrade bulb. Cheapest method of getting better lighting, but still not adequate on this bikes headlight design IMHO.
-HID kit (I put this in 2nd because you lose your high beam / gimick dual HID kits don't work worth a crap). Junk to me but great to others. I wouldn't waste my money on them as they aren't designed for a halogen housing, you lose your high beam,
-upgrade bulb and self-powered via relay (think Catz Zeta system). Best bang for your buck upgrade as both the bulb and relay harness are relatively light on the wallet. Results are noticeably better than stock or even just a upgraded bulb.
-HID bixenon projector retrofit. Costs the most but you get the best performance bar none. If cost isn't an issue, go for it. Kind of a you get what you pay for thing here.
06-16-2008, 06:53 PM
#29
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I would imagine with an H4 setup that you'll need to use a few diodes for the input on the relay if you used the #85 pin because you have both a high beam and a low beam signal to deal with. A diode will keep power from backfeeding thru the switch (not good LOL).
Typically this is how I run a 5-pin Bosch relay:
85: input signal (low and high beam input to relay)
86: new chassis ground. Don't use existing grounds.
87: output. This goes back to the headlight bulb connector.
87a: not used
30: 12v constant power (+) (battery)
On second thought, I believe you might have to use two relays. One for low beam and the other for high beam. Haven't played around with it but only using one might pose issues on the output signal when you go from low to high beam mode. I'd have to test to verify what the bike does to the low beam signal and if it cuts it off during high beam to see if one relay would work. Two relays would definitely get it working though without diodes.
Typically this is how I run a 5-pin Bosch relay:
85: input signal (low and high beam input to relay)
86: new chassis ground. Don't use existing grounds.
87: output. This goes back to the headlight bulb connector.
87a: not used
30: 12v constant power (+) (battery)
On second thought, I believe you might have to use two relays. One for low beam and the other for high beam. Haven't played around with it but only using one might pose issues on the output signal when you go from low to high beam mode. I'd have to test to verify what the bike does to the low beam signal and if it cuts it off during high beam to see if one relay would work. Two relays would definitely get it working though without diodes.
06-16-2008, 07:02 PM
#30
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Last edited by LineArrayNut; 06-16-2008 at 07:05 PM.
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